cooling fan isnt coming on
ehh no.. that is wrong ^
the 2 prong sensor is what gives temp readings to the ecu, and the 1 wire connector is what provides a reading to the gauge in the cluster.
if its an obd0 b16a then the switch will be on the back of the block.

if its an obd1/2 b16a then the switch will be on the thermostat housing

in either case just unplug the connector and jump the 2 pins. if the fan comes on then switch is bad. if the fan does not come on then the switch is good and your problem lies elsewhere. could be a loose wire, or the fan relay might be bad.
here is how to test the fan relay
1. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay.
2. Connect ohmmeter between relay terminals 3 and 4.
3. Meter should indicate no continuity.
4. Connect battery voltage across terminals 1 and 2, on 1987 models or C & D on 1988 models.
5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between terminals 3 and 4.
its located here
the 2 prong sensor is what gives temp readings to the ecu, and the 1 wire connector is what provides a reading to the gauge in the cluster.
if its an obd0 b16a then the switch will be on the back of the block.

if its an obd1/2 b16a then the switch will be on the thermostat housing

in either case just unplug the connector and jump the 2 pins. if the fan comes on then switch is bad. if the fan does not come on then the switch is good and your problem lies elsewhere. could be a loose wire, or the fan relay might be bad.
here is how to test the fan relay
1. Disconnect electrical connector and remove relay.
2. Connect ohmmeter between relay terminals 3 and 4.
3. Meter should indicate no continuity.
4. Connect battery voltage across terminals 1 and 2, on 1987 models or C & D on 1988 models.
5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between terminals 3 and 4.
its located here
why don't you just make a manual switch for your fan.
that way you can control when its on and off. look in the faq for a write-up...i'm pretty sure its in there. if not search.
that way you can control when its on and off. look in the faq for a write-up...i'm pretty sure its in there. if not search.
oh, my bad. didnt realize it was a b16,
to me for not reading. um, don't make a switch. if you need a relay, i'll mail you one for cheap. i have a few laying around here that are good. pm me.
to me for not reading. um, don't make a switch. if you need a relay, i'll mail you one for cheap. i have a few laying around here that are good. pm me.
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its there. you dont just connect them though. that would be what you do to bypass the switch and test the relay. what you need to do is plug those 2 pins into the switch on the back of the block.
i looked on the back, i found where its supposed to be plugged in at. but i dont see any clip that should go there. i have a donor da that i can pull it off of but where would i go about finding the wires to connect the clip?
although this engine does not have the switch that the 2 connectors plug into, you should see 2 wires dangling back there just like in this picture.
Best place to do a switch is to tap into the wires we are talking about.
Hook your switch to the wires and you control when the relay goes on and off.... just like the thermo switch.
If your thermo switch works then you can let it run stock OR flip the switch to run it manual.
Question:
Why would you want to run it manual anyway? You really don't gain anything unless you have a drag car (and only 'maybe' it would be a benefit).
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