My engine is the D16Y8 from 2000 EX Civic. In the Helms manual for the EF cars it says its on or by the top radiator hose, but mine doesn't have it.

Also, when I run the engine with the radiator cap off, coolant gradually runs out of the top. I have read if it shoots out of the top of radiator filler neck then you got a HG issue. But mine is not shooting, just the vibration of the car, and the fact that the coolant is at the brim of the filler neck so it spills out.

I am just trying to get all the air bubbles out of my cooling system to see if that solves my overheating issue.

Gonna check plugs 2 and 3 next to see if coolant has been steam cleaning the insides there to see if it the HG is to blame for my coolant loss.

 

the Y8 doesn't have a bleeder valve

 

So this means it has to self bleed right? I don't have to worry about bleeding it?

How about that coolant running out of the radiator filler neck issue? Is this normal? It doesn't shoot out, but it is at the brim and vibrates out gradually.

Update: Just checked 2 and 3 for what looks like steam cleaning or whatever. Well I couldn't really tell because the hole is too small and even with a led flash light I couldn't get any view of the piston. The holes themselves were the same on 1 and 2 and 3. So I didn't see anything different between 1 compared to 2 and 3.

So none of my testing is giving me any results so far. I might see if autozone or equivilant has the radiator pressure tester to see if I have any leaks. But this may be a waste of my time because I have never seen any fluids or anything where I park the car.

2nd Update: After reading this thread, I think maybe a big possibility is that my thermosensor might be causing my problems? I mean, why would my temp gauge go up, and then suddenly, abruptly, fastly go back to normal... and then proceed to rise, and then go down. I mean, nothing could heat the car up, and the make it drop in temp that fast right?

I need to know how to bleed the D16Y8 engine. Searching is a bitch

 

Ok, after bleeding the system my idle sits in 45% now like it used to. When I drove harder it was like 50%. But my issue is solved.

It all began when I unopened the coolant reservoir tank. That let air in the system.

 

So without a bleeder screw, what did you end up doing to bleed it?

 

I take the radiator cap off. Turn the car on with heat all the way and fan on stage 4. I run it like this for like 3-5 minutes until car reaches correct operating temps. Also, I squeezed the hoses like people have suggested.

Wonder why I lost some coolant previously? I mean, the level of my reservoir tank went lower than it was. Ill continue to monitor it.

Also, my radiator fan never turns on. You might say to check grounds, relays, the switch and stuff, but how do I do all that? I don't know the difference visually from a bad and good one.

 

is your cooling fan hooked up? the cooling fan switch on the Y8 is on the thermostat housing (where bottom radiator hose connects) - the cooling fan switch on the EF engines is on the back of the block - when the engine was installed, the wires that went to the switch on the back of the block should have been extended and a different connector installed in order to plug into the switch on the thermostat housing - to check the fan switch, unplug the connector to the cooling fan switch and jumper across the 2 wire in the connector - the fan should come on when the ignition switch is turned on - if it comes on, then the switch (sensor) is bad - if it doesn't come on, then the problem is with the cooling fan relay or the fan motor itself

 

ok, and when you say to jumper it. do I just use any old wire? I have some new wire I bought a long time ago to repair a bad trunk wire in my BMW.

 

how did you bleed it? I'm having a similar issue. I got a funnel and adapter piece I'm going to try next aswell as a new Aisin Thermo. I think a minuscule amount of air got in my system.

 

Top off radiator and reservoir with coolant.

Idle engine with radiator cap loose until the radiator fan turns on twice.

Top off radiator and reservoir with coolant again, if necessary.

Tighten radiator cap.

Done.