DIY: Beaks Rear Lower Tie Bar Install
so i got my limited edition beaks rear lower tie bar and decided to do a diy for our sake. and im only going to post pics for the more intricate parts.
1.) Jack up the car and support it on jack stands (obviously) beaks recomends jacking up all four corners, but i only have 2 jack stands so i just put bricks in front of my front wheels and left it in gear.

2.) Get each side bracket and line it up with the lca bolt in the middle of the hold in the bracket and make sure it is against the rear diffuser so u can mark out the hole to cut out. im using a dremel just so it will be quick and easy.

3.) Now take something and mark the space around the bracket. im using a paint pen, u can use anything that will mark on the plastic on the rear diffuser.

4.) Now use the dremel to cut out the holes, you want to cut closer to the subframe brace when you are cutting the top area of where you marked the bracket because when you tighten it up, the bracket will end up being under the diffuser and u cant put the bar on. but i went the extra step of using a sanding wheel to smooth out the edges that i cut.

5.) Now remove the rear diffuser because its hard to work around with the long bolt from the lca. there are 2 10mm bolts in the front, another 10mm on the driver side, and the other one on the driver side is just a push clip like on the fender lining for the wheel well. and the 2 in the back are the same as these as well. NOTE: Be careful for falling dirt when removing the diffuser!!
6.) Now remove the bolts from the lca with a 14mm socket and place the lca bolt in the correct bracket side and tighten it down to the point where it is snug, but you can still move the brackets around.
7.) Install the bar with the screws and nuts that go through the bar into the bracket and tighten down firmly so that bar does not move. now i found it easier this way to make sure the bar is level. i used a level to make sure it was straight.

8.) Tighten the lca bolts to 40 ft/lbs as according to factory specs. now after you do this, remove the bar from the brackets. why you might ask?? well keep reading, you will see what i mean.
9.) Now re-install the rear diffuser, but do not put in no other bolts except the 2 10mm bolts that go near the lca bolts! then check to see if additional cutting of the diffuser is necessary for the bar to fit flush. <== now this is the reason why you remove the bar. because the diffuser will NOT go back on with the bar still attached to the brackets!!
10.) With the previous step done, leave the 2 10mm bolts in, and pull down the rear diffuser from the bumper so that it hangs down. this is where you are going to re-install the bar.
11.) Insert the screws from the top of the bracket and through the tie bar, and torque down to 24 ft/lbs. it may be a little bit difficult with the 3/16" hex key, but i used a breaker bar to hold the hex key while i had a torque wrench with a 13mm on the bottom.
12.) Now after you have it torqued down, re-install the screw and 3 push pins and you are done!!
1.) Jack up the car and support it on jack stands (obviously) beaks recomends jacking up all four corners, but i only have 2 jack stands so i just put bricks in front of my front wheels and left it in gear.

2.) Get each side bracket and line it up with the lca bolt in the middle of the hold in the bracket and make sure it is against the rear diffuser so u can mark out the hole to cut out. im using a dremel just so it will be quick and easy.

3.) Now take something and mark the space around the bracket. im using a paint pen, u can use anything that will mark on the plastic on the rear diffuser.

4.) Now use the dremel to cut out the holes, you want to cut closer to the subframe brace when you are cutting the top area of where you marked the bracket because when you tighten it up, the bracket will end up being under the diffuser and u cant put the bar on. but i went the extra step of using a sanding wheel to smooth out the edges that i cut.

5.) Now remove the rear diffuser because its hard to work around with the long bolt from the lca. there are 2 10mm bolts in the front, another 10mm on the driver side, and the other one on the driver side is just a push clip like on the fender lining for the wheel well. and the 2 in the back are the same as these as well. NOTE: Be careful for falling dirt when removing the diffuser!!
6.) Now remove the bolts from the lca with a 14mm socket and place the lca bolt in the correct bracket side and tighten it down to the point where it is snug, but you can still move the brackets around.
7.) Install the bar with the screws and nuts that go through the bar into the bracket and tighten down firmly so that bar does not move. now i found it easier this way to make sure the bar is level. i used a level to make sure it was straight.

8.) Tighten the lca bolts to 40 ft/lbs as according to factory specs. now after you do this, remove the bar from the brackets. why you might ask?? well keep reading, you will see what i mean.
9.) Now re-install the rear diffuser, but do not put in no other bolts except the 2 10mm bolts that go near the lca bolts! then check to see if additional cutting of the diffuser is necessary for the bar to fit flush. <== now this is the reason why you remove the bar. because the diffuser will NOT go back on with the bar still attached to the brackets!!
10.) With the previous step done, leave the 2 10mm bolts in, and pull down the rear diffuser from the bumper so that it hangs down. this is where you are going to re-install the bar.
11.) Insert the screws from the top of the bracket and through the tie bar, and torque down to 24 ft/lbs. it may be a little bit difficult with the 3/16" hex key, but i used a breaker bar to hold the hex key while i had a torque wrench with a 13mm on the bottom.
12.) Now after you have it torqued down, re-install the screw and 3 push pins and you are done!!
Last edited by i-VTEC_DOHC; Jul 11, 2009 at 11:01 PM.
its optional, you can drive without it if you would like. i did for the test drive before i re-torqued everything. oh btw, its actually purple, the flash makes it look pink
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So how much does that improve the handling? My 93 accord the rear subframe is bolted onto the frame rails. I,m thinking of welding it straight to the frame.
Just get the Megan Racing one from corsport, it's like 65$ shipped and takes 10 minutes to install. I left my diffuser off when I installed mine. However, the bar really doesn't make a noticeable difference...a swaybar is a much better upgrade than a tie-bar.
It's mostly bling, but damn it does look good. I'm coming from a heavily modded previous daily driver so for this one I'm trying not to install too many pieces that require the removal or cutting of factory stuff.. but my thumbs up to those who install it! I think it normally comes in gold for those not found of purple :p
It's mostly bling, but damn it does look good. I'm coming from a heavily modded previous daily driver so for this one I'm trying not to install too many pieces that require the removal or cutting of factory stuff.. but my thumbs up to those who install it! I think it normally comes in gold for those not found of purple :p





