I just recently purchased a used set of Skunk2 Pro1 Series Camshafts. I am getting ready to put them in, the motor is:

USDM B18C1
81.5mm RS Machine ITR Spec Pistons
Supertech Nitride Coated Valvetrain & Ti- Retainers
PWJDM CF Intake
OBX IM w/ OEM TB
HyTech Rep Tri-Y Header
Apex-i WS2 (no cat)

My question is what should I do or NEED to do to install these cams? Me and my mechanic at the dealership did the head assembly so were gonna tackle the cams too. Our main concern is the piston-to-valve clearance. Do these cams HAVE TO be degreed in? And what about adjusting the valves? As of now my valve adjustment is dead on. The car doesnt tick a bit. Runs Strong, no issues and timing is dead on also.

Just want this cam install to go smoothly and keep my freshly built motor as healthy as possible.

Thanks in advance H-T...

PS. Maybe if someone has an install write-up, thatd be great...

 

you do need to degree. you should also do a valve adjustment after. it only takes a few minutes to do esp if you already have the vc off.

 

so more than likely they'll need to be loosened up a little bit?

 

tttt

 

You actually do want to degree them in, instead of playing with the cam timing on the dyno. Your valve lash should be at .007 on the intake and .008 on the exhaust.
I would strongly recommend claying the motor as well, cause the ITR spec pistons have super shallow valve pockets which can cause V2P contact.

 

In my case this P2V wasn't an issue, I had plenty. V2V clicking clearance was tight, I found I should be running the exhuast 1deg more advanced than the intake maintain 0.040".

 

so i shouldnt install these myself? if i do what tools will i need and how can i assure i wont have any P2V or V2V issues...thanks again!

 

You shouldn't install them if you don't know what your doing. To do it properly, you will need a degree wheel, and all the other necessary parts to install cams. The only way to make sure you don't have any V2V or V2P contact is to clay the motor.

 

Pro 1's usually want even more exhaust cam advance-minimum 2 degrees more than the intake cam.

 

I would always recommend degreeing in cams and checking v2v v2p clearances... At first I was going to tell you not to bother cause I missread thinking you had s2s1 cams. Knowing your safety area with the degrees lets you play with them a bit on the dyno.

There is a write up on degreeing in cams on here somewhere, but I would leave it up to someone that knows how to do so if you have any doubt.

Like you said, you have a healthy motor and i seems like you are doing everything right the first time, so why cheap out now.

 

Unless the head has been milled quite a bit, I wouldn't worry about the piston to valve or valve to valve clearances. ITR pistons in a B18C1 should give you plenty of space. I wouldn't recommend trying to degree the cams until you have it on the dyno. Have your tuner do it to get the best results.

I don't see why you shouldn't install the cams. Just call skunk2 and ask them what they recommend to degree the cams at until you get it to the dyno. I put mine at 0,0 and drove straight to get it tuned. I had the same cams except I had JDM B16 pistons, which actually have a higher dome then the Type-R pistons. I think Shaun at Church finally left them at +3 on the exhaust and +1 on the intake, if I remember correctly.

 

thanks for the info guys, so im prolly gonna attempt it myself and hope there isnt any contact with pistons/valves. What about cam gears? are they a nesessity?

 

If you do not plan on degreeing those cams in, the recommended centerlines on for those cams as a quick setting would be -1 intake and +3 exhaust. A 4° split is ideal, for a quick setting that is.

 

Why would you bring a degree wheel and all that to the dyno? I think you have the cam degree method all wrong. Degreeing a cam, and playing with cam timing on the dyno is 2 entirely different things. Skunk2 recommends having them degree'd in, since that is the safest/ proper method.

 

Then apparently I am all mixed up. I see what you are saying. To be honest, I've never done that before. Is this done when building an entire motor or just with installing cams?

 

It's supposed to be done anytime you are installing aggressive cams. The Tuner 1's don't require to be degree'd in, since they work fine off the factory centerlines which are +0 +0, but anything beyond would require that they be degreed in to get the proper centerlines. Using a quick setting and messing with the cam timing on the dyno is the janky way out.

 

the "janky" way out?

 

janky=shortcut i believe.

i did not degree my pro1's. i think if i had i may have picked up MAYBE 2-3 whp more. i made 203whp with i believe +1 intake +2 or 3 exhaust. anything else gave a crappy curve, or lower power.

 

you do need to degree the cams.

you will need camgears and a degree kit.

you will want to do this w/ the motor out of the car.

you will want to do this w/ your valve lash at 0 and your rockers locked.

you do NOT need to clay the motor to meaure p2v/v2v, it is easily done while degreeing the cams.

you will want to measure v2v w/ the head removed from the block.

if you dont feel comfortable doing all this, i would suggest paying someone who is familiar w/ this method.

or you could just throw the cams in w/ camgears and use skunks quick degree settings and cross your fingers and hope it makes good power and doesnt bend any valves....

 

Yea, everyones' measurements will vary slightly. My head received a valve job so valves will be sunken into the head more than stock. My results corresponds very closely to IN VTEC's results... 1 deg advanced on exhaust as a minimum.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ght=v2v&page=5

 

Whats the reason the motor needs to be out to degree the cams in? No way it can be done in the car?

 

extremely difficult since it would be a very tight fit for a degree wheel, and it would be hard to see in the car. although im sure there is probably a way to do it in the car.

 

let me say this...

i have degreed my cams a few times and it comes naturally to me now, however i still wouldnt do it in the car. it would be a huge pain in the *** and probably not very accurate.

besides, you want to check v2v w/ the head on a workbench, so you may as well keep the motor out of the car until everything is completed.

 

General rule of thumb: Follow the manufactures procedure for install. If they say you should degree them in and check p2v/v2v *which they do* then there is a reason for it and you should do it. Do not listen to people who have gotten away without doing it because if/when something goes wrong with your setup it'll be your money that pays to fix the results given from following bad advice.