Parts to Do the swap
Ok I have a 1994 Civic that already has a D16Y8 in it with a 5speed. What would be the easiest and most inexpensive DOHC Vtec swap and What parts would I need.
The cheapest is probably going to be your B16A. You can go with a JDM SIR II B16A and it will already come setup with OBD1 which will make things even easier.
You will need:
*ECU(Chipped P28 or B16A P30)
*94-up Integra Axles or 99-00 Civic SI Axles
*Intermediate Shaft
*94-up integra Shift Linkage
*Mounts(You can use some stock mounts but I prefer to buy new mounts for the new engine plus I don't like the feel of stock mounts)
*Throttle Cable
*Radiator Hoses
*Tranny
*May have to extend some wires.
*B16A Clutch and Flywheel.
*B-Series Alternator
You can buy a complete SIR II B16A swap from places like Hmotorsonline.com
http://hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000...age&item=30005
You will need:
*ECU(Chipped P28 or B16A P30)
*94-up Integra Axles or 99-00 Civic SI Axles
*Intermediate Shaft
*94-up integra Shift Linkage
*Mounts(You can use some stock mounts but I prefer to buy new mounts for the new engine plus I don't like the feel of stock mounts)
*Throttle Cable
*Radiator Hoses
*Tranny
*May have to extend some wires.
*B16A Clutch and Flywheel.
*B-Series Alternator
You can buy a complete SIR II B16A swap from places like Hmotorsonline.com
http://hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000...age&item=30005
Thank you Im going to look into it. I buy cars from coparts and Im looking for a honda with the DOHC so I can do the swap. I just wasnt for sure what swaps would be the closest to a direct bolt in (none really are a direct bolt in but you know what I mean) I was thinking the B16A2
Thank you Im going to look into it. I buy cars from coparts and Im looking for a A with the DOHC so I can do the swap. I just wasnt for sure what swaps would be the closest to a direct bolt in (none really are a direct bolt in but you know what I mean) I was thinking the B16A2
Blake has point though..for the money you spend on the B-swap you could do a mild build on that Y8 and boost it and make good numbers.
You know I thought turbo was a good Idea but I read this
The Achilles heel of the D-series seems to be its connecting rods, which will withstand a power increase up to a certain point but will break if that limit is exceeded. Generally, a D-series motor can handle up to about 220 bhp (160 kW), as long as care is taken to avoid detonation through careful spark and fuel management.
The Achilles heel of the D-series seems to be its connecting rods, which will withstand a power increase up to a certain point but will break if that limit is exceeded. Generally, a D-series motor can handle up to about 220 bhp (160 kW), as long as care is taken to avoid detonation through careful spark and fuel management.
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You know I thought turbo was a good Idea but I read this
The A heel of the D-series seems to be its connecting rods, which will withstand a power increase up to a certain point but will break if that limit is exceeded. Generally, a D-series motor can handle up to about 220 bhp (160 kW), as long as care is taken to avoid detonation through careful spark and fuel management.
The A heel of the D-series seems to be its connecting rods, which will withstand a power increase up to a certain point but will break if that limit is exceeded. Generally, a D-series motor can handle up to about 220 bhp (160 kW), as long as care is taken to avoid detonation through careful spark and fuel management.
Ok?? So your point is that the D-Series has a weakness? Every engine does. Like most people will say the safe point for a stock block B-Series is right around 300WHP.
Every engine made will fail if pushed beyond the limits of what the parts(IE: Pistons, Rods, Rod bolts, etc)were built for.
Thats why theres the aftermarket. If a stock D-Series..say a D16Z6 rated at 125 Break HP was just really de-tuned in stock form but could in reality being stock be pushed to 600WHP..there wouldn't be much need for the aftermarket to come out with Forged Internals, etc.
And theres many people that have stock block D-Series engines well over the 220WHP mark and there running fine. The 220 is just where the fine line of engine safety and possible failure come into play.
I will boosting my stock LS in the upcoming months. Shooting for 280 to 300WHP..on a stock block. I am however going to pull the head and install ARP Headstuds. I think it will hold up fine. It has alot to do with how good the Tuner is. Mine will be tuned on Crome. But wheather you use Hondata, Crome, ECtune, AEM EMS, etc..the equipment is only as good as the person using it.
It's a pretty broad question. You never know what kind of deal you will find on a motor. Once you do find the motor, you can search around and find a list of everything you need. There are literally thousands of threads on swaps.
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Kasper.
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jul 25, 2004 09:19 PM



