I replaced my GSR crank w/ a Type R one last summer ('08)...because the keyway on my GSR crank was destroyed. Anyways...I've been having a ticking...knocking problem for awhile now, so I get my valves adjusted...doesn't fix it...replace the LMAs to the new spring type...doesn't fix it, and today I dropped my oil pan. Turns out one of the oils quirters was already broken, the tip was floating around in the pan. This was the #2 oil squirter...and #4 is showing significant signs of wear on the tube...not on the block. The squirters on #1 and #3 are fine, showing no signs of wear whatsoever since the counterweights are backwards on these two cylinders. My question is... is the easiest solution to just block them? Keep in mind I'm still running stock pistons and rods. This is also my daily driving car...if I ever VTEC it, it's usually just one little trip up to 80 or so, then I'm back at normal driving levels. If so..should I take out the squirters in #1 and #3 as well and block them? Or should I just order new ones and try to heat them up and bend them so the crank doesn't hit them. I believe this is where my ticking/knocking sound is coming from.

 

A type-r crank should not hit the squirters. Type-r's use oil squirters too, and the crank should clear without any issues. The stroke of a type-r is the same as the GSR.

 

That is really strange. Usually you only have clearance problems with aftermarket pistons and a larger 89mm + stroke...From what ive seen...

Golden Eagle sells an oil squirter plug kit.

 

hmm...maybe I bent them whenever I installed the crank...I guess I'll order some and see...if not I'll just try to bend them.

 

I wouldn't bend them much more, the metal is already fatigued. I'd use a block kit.

 

Should I block all 4? Or just the two that are rubbing? I'd like to try and keep the temps down as much as I can.

 

OK...so now I'm worried that the guy sent me an LS crank off of hondamarketplace. He said it was a Type R crank...so I believed him, but with the crank hitting the oil squirters that makes me worry a little bit. Is there anyway to tell if I have an LS or Type R crankshaft? Thanks.

 

When you checked the width of the rod journals on the crank, did you get LS or GSR widths?

 

I'll get my micrometer out tomorrow and check...what are they supposed to be? I searched and couldn't find the specs.

 

What are the markings on the rods? PR4 or P72?

 

IDK...the rods and pistons are stock GSR. I only changed the crank and bearings. I bought the crankshaft off of hondamarketplace from a guy that said he was turning his Type R into an LS/VTEC, therefore not needing his R crankshaft.

 

OK...P72 rods. My micrometer doesn't quite fit in there well enough to get an exact reading..but it looked around 0.95"..ish. I couldn't find any definite honda specs on how wide the rod journals are, but I think that is the LS rod journal width. Here's a pic of how much space I have in between the rod and side of journal. Let me know what ya think. Thanks.

 

Nevermind. Sorry for flooding the forums. My motor wouldn't have made it an extra 12k miles since putting the crank in if I had an LS crank.