What is the offset for the cr kais?
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
i'd guess around +45/+50 for a fit without too much fender modding or too much camber needed...and you can run decent tire sizing.
Too many factors to give you a straight answer.
Too many factors to give you a straight answer.
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...de=WORKCR-1895
^^ what offset should i get for my rear? i think im going to run 18x 8.5 +38
^^ what offset should i get for my rear? i think im going to run 18x 8.5 +38
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
......still not enough details to provide any useful information.
Lowered? How much? What tire sizes? Purpose of the car? Willing to crush fenders? Willing to pull fenders? Willing to use camber?
help us help you.
Lowered? How much? What tire sizes? Purpose of the car? Willing to crush fenders? Willing to pull fenders? Willing to use camber?
help us help you.
heres a real world example. Im contemplating 17x 7.5 +45 up front with a 225/45/r17 tire and 17x8.5 +48 in the rear with a 255/40/r17 tire. B Serious...since I'm also planning on lowering on espelirs would I be safe on these wheels and tires? It'll be primarily a street car with not much if any tracking. I was thinking maybe I should do a 245 rear tire instead of the 255?
im willing to do anything and if my drop is a problem then i can raise my car with no problem
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
heres a real world example. Im contemplating 17x 7.5 +45 up front with a 225/45/r17 tire and 17x8.5 +48 in the rear with a 255/40/r17 tire. B Serious...since I'm also planning on lowering on espelirs would I be safe on these wheels and tires? It'll be primarily a street car with not much if any tracking. I was thinking maybe I should do a 245 rear tire instead of the 255?
The rear sounds weak. The front is kinda weak as well.
I have 17x7.5 +45s and 17x9+45s. I run 225/45F and 255/40/R. I wish I would have gone with atleast a 17X8+45 up front. The 17X9+45s, however, fit great IMO.
They don't have the crazy look that everyone seems to be going for now a days...but I think they're the perfect blend of looks and function. The rears are completely flush. I didn't have to totally destroy my fenders or run a **** ton of camber or use skinny tires to make it work. Plus I think it looks really good. Again, I wish I would have gone with atleast 17X8 up front. Later on I might do 17X9 +45 up front with 255/40/17s. I'll have to pull and repaint my front fenders.
I DO track my car...so the function matters to me.
I hate to thread jack with pics, but here is how my car sits:



No scraping EVER. I had to roll the lips on my rear fenders, relocate the rear bumper tab, roll the small lip on my front fender, crush the front fender tabs and trim a tiny bit off the fender liner towards the outer edge of the fender. No scraping at track events...even when I spin out. I'm on KW V3s. So...stiff springs, but still.
My Front camber is -2.3deg.
My Rear camber is -3.0deg.
Use a heatgun and buy some undercoat/touch up paint for rolling the fenders. I did mine with a mallet and careful hands.
Definately go with a 255/40/17 out back.
I used to have 245/40/17s on the back and it never scraped until I put on 255/40/17s. I just had to relocate the bumper tab. The 245/40/17s are a simpler fit...but the 255/40/17s look much nicer, IMO. They're more agressive looking. Plus...obviously the performance aspect.
The 225/45/17s up front will be fine. I might upgrayyed to either a 245/40/17 or a 235/45/17 up front, though.
The springs you're buying don't drop the car nearly as much as my car is dropped...but they're softer. So you'll probably still need to relocate the rear bumper tab and crush in the rear/front fender lips and bend in the front tabs. But before you mod the fenders at all...I'd put it on with the fenders unmodded first and see if it scrapes. If it scrapes, go from there.
It's really not rocket science. If it scrapes, either add camber or crush lips or add ride height or add spring stiffness or damper stiffness or whatever. I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out.
17X8.5 +45 looks kinda weak...there's usually much less concavity to the wheel spokes. Concavity is the ****, IMO.
Here's an example:
Here's an AP1 with the same wheels as me but in a 17X8.5 (or 17X8 ...I can't remember) +45

Iduno.
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sweet. Im goin off limited knowledge but it makes since. Im trying to see what fits with limited rolling etc. Im not extremely comfortable doing the relocating/rolling etc just yet at least not on my own. so if I can run the wheels and tires I want, and do the springs without all that I'll be ok. Then, like you, If I want to upgrade later and then feel more comfortable with everything else I'll do it. Good explanations though, I figured if anyone here knew what would work and how it'd be you.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
The fender rolling is more intimidating than it sounds. It's really not that bad. Just go slowly. Tap the mallet from back to front front to back and roll the fender in sequences. Use a decent amount of heat...but not enough to mess up the paint.
Tape off the outside of the fender and spray some undercoat/paint between the crease and touch up paint anywhere the paint may have cracked...if it cracks. It should'nt crack if you use decent heat.
Tape off the outside of the fender and spray some undercoat/paint between the crease and touch up paint anywhere the paint may have cracked...if it cracks. It should'nt crack if you use decent heat.
hrmm i can either do the 255's with no drop since it will more than likely fit with no rolling or get the 245's and lower it and see what all I have to do to fit the 255's....hrmm. Methinks I'll have to do more homework. I like all the advice and knowledge though its definitely appreciated. Hopefully it will help the OP as well lol
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