kiwi and other folks i have heard many people talking about certin companys camber kits givin in when cornering hard like +or- degres i also herd kiwi that u had tested diffrent brands at the track can anyone give me some feedback on the best built for hi stress

 

I assume you're talking about double wishbone front?

If so, the ones that let you slide the balljoint on the upper A-arm (i.e. skunk2) have the tendency to slip during hard cornering. That's why people usually sand off the paint in the area and use some locking washers to clamp it down tight.

The "best" one I've seen so far is from A-Sports. It changes camber by adjusting the A-arm length through the threaded rods. But they are very expensive.

 

Ow Very ?

 

Oops,

How Very expensive ?

 

Since this question was directed at me "Kiwi" I trust that my answer will not be seen as an AD.
I agree, The A Sports upper Camber arms are about as good as you will get, but they are very expensive!
I always take a few sets of HARDRACE Spherical Bearing Front camber kits for DC2/EG/& EK With us to the races along with other Hardrace stuff, Spherical LCA's, Rear camber, and Toe Links and complete Hard Rubber Bushing Kits.
At every event we almost always end up swapping at least a couple of Front HARDRACE camber kits into cars previously equipped with the Skunk II style which do slip constantly.
The HARDRACE are a far superior design, giving more adjustment, they don't slip and if fitted with our custom offset Bronze Bushings you gain a heap more caster.
Check out HARDRACE "The Combo" on my website.

Kiwi


Kiwi

 

Kiwi, did you get my email?

BTW, does hardrace make an front UCA setup for the CRX?

 

Looks great Kiwi...

 

In Japan the list price was 49,800 yen (over USD$500).



Is this the one? How is the clamping mechanism different from the Skunk II one? TIA!

 

danm i jus bought the skunk 2 pro plus camber kit are u saying that skunk2 have alot of problems

 

It's obvious even from that small picture-
The SkunkII Version uses 4 small 6mm Allen bolts to hold the Sliding Ball joint through a thin gauge stamped metal arm. We used to use the Skunk II ourselves for years.
The HARDRACE version use 4 HT Bolts (12mm wrench) to hold the sliding ball joint through an 1/8" plate housing. Believe me- They never slip!

Kiwi

 

Yes I did... Sorry for not getting back to you sooner.

Yes Hardrace are working on producing adjustable Top Arms for the CRX right now.
I sent them a sample set of arms and some suggestions a couple of months ago and as recently as last thursday they were still working on it.
I would have thought it would have been a simple matter of taking the EG Style and reducing the overall size ? but aparently there are some clearance issues with the CRX that I was not aware of.
I have been working with Brian at PCI and we already have some custom prototype arms similar to the Japanese version posted by Wai.

Kiwi

 

Excellent. Those bigger bolts do give me a much better confidence.

 

There are also lock washers on the bolts. Iv had mine for maybe 4 months and havent had any issue, they are a great piece.

 

Plus one I have had them 5 months.No prob.

They take a licking and keep on ticking.With the way Jeff attacks the curbs, most other parts would have failed at this point in the season.

 

good stuff I was about to buy my skunk 2 but I know now thanks keep up the good work.

 

Yeah....
This will do it every time....

Kiwi

 

All this hype Jeff, I just cant wait for mine!

 

I run the Kiwi setup and have no problem with the camber changing.

benny

 

I was working on getting a H2 car setup for its first runs. We took out the OEM UCAs in the morning and put in the SKunk II's. The drive took his car out 3 times to sort out the suspension but each run one or both of the Skunks slipped. Luckily Kiwi was there with his set. As far as I know the driver hasn't had a problem yet.

 

I haven't had any difficulty with my Skunk2 Pro+ front UCAs on my Integra. It has many track days on it and I"ve never had the camber adjustment come loose. I always use a torque wrench on the allen bolts though.

 

I have skunk2 UCA from 2001 or 2002, they have been through hell and haven't ever slipped...


I really really like the A-sport ones, and the Hardrace stuff looks great too.

 

wut is the torque u use on the allen bolts. I jus got the skunk2 pro+,uca and need that extra confidence

 

I torque them to 120 in-lbs.

 

Haven't had a problem with skunk2's slipping either.. ground off paint and used star washers and stretch cheap grade 5 hex heads which i replace every couple times

 

I have been running Skunk 2's A-arms (original model) on track in my ITR for 6 years and have never had them slip. I bought a box of Grade 10.9 blue colored bolts from McMaster years ago and I also use an in-lb torque wrench to set them.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#95430a323/=2nj48h
I also use thick flat washers under the bolts and paint is long gone. They work great, and I have spherical bearings virtually everywhere in the suspension with 850F/1100R springs, so nothing much to cushion the shock when riding curbs. I read so many stories of them slipping, but since it never happened to me, I stopped even thinking about them.