Caliper slide problem
When i threw my cross/drilled slotted rotors on my car last weekend i notice that 1 caliper slide was completelty frozen in. The caliper was on driver REAR side. It was completelty dry and rusted in, I was trying forever to get it loose, well then i cranked up my air compressor and hooked up my Chicago Pheunetic 7750 Turbo, bad **** impact, spun it around so i could get it out. I tried to clean it up as much as i could and repacked with greese.
PROBLEM: I looked at the rotor and the pad is not eating into rotor right, so im suspecting is frozen up again. My question is GENERALLY do you just replace the caliper housing and slide or just the slide and repack it?
PROBLEM: I looked at the rotor and the pad is not eating into rotor right, so im suspecting is frozen up again. My question is GENERALLY do you just replace the caliper housing and slide or just the slide and repack it?
bump...i know you shop guys know this answer. very simple do u replace the calipers or just the slides when a caliper slide has completely frozen up?
Replacing just the caliper is not going to solve your problem. Either the caliper BRACKET needs to be replaced or the slides. Is there any bent slides or damage to them? If there is, they are your problem. Honda recommends silicone brake grease for the slides. Did you replace the boots back there too? If not, that will cause a major issue. I recommend the OEM boots b/c the aftermarket DIY stores ones suck Mine ripped in about 3 months. Funny thing is, my caliper locked up on the exact side and the rear too.
sorry it took awhile to reply.. yes the boot ripped which the greese came out assume that was the cause of the whole problem. However, i tore it down again, the caliper slidewas dragging a tad. so i tried to smooth it up a bit. im going to see if it made a difference.
I used the Sly-glide stuff. Your right i ment the caliper bracket not the caliper, haha. Thanks for the info man!
I used the Sly-glide stuff. Your right i ment the caliper bracket not the caliper, haha. Thanks for the info man!
One thing I would try b4 buying new is giving them a light sanding to get imperfections off of the sliders. Also, make sure you clean the bracket holes with some brake cleaner, especially if your boots were ripped. Dirt and road grime will get in there and cause binding. One of your slides should have a rubber grommet at the end of it. Make sure that is not swollen. If it is, trim A LITTLE off so it sits almost flush with the slide. Good choice for the lube, as any petroleum product makes rubber parts expand.
im trying to think of a way to smooth out the inside of the caliper slide bracket?? any ideas??? I actually grinded the slide very lighty and smoothed the imperfections the 2nd time here. Its moves alot easier now, so im hoping this did the trick,
any know how long it will take for the pad to eat into the rotor assuming i corrected the problem?
any know how long it will take for the pad to eat into the rotor assuming i corrected the problem?
Seeing that most of your braking comes from the front, I would think quite awhile. The only way I could think of deburring the caliper bracket is with a round file. It will not get it perfect, but it should get it close. Usually, its not too bad in there. When I did my rear caliper, I had a bitch of a time getting the clevis pin off of the caliper and the emergency brake cable.
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You should be able to pick up brackets from NAPA or similar for fairly cheap, I bought some Accord wagon front brackets for like $20 new. (And they were in stock)
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Dec 1, 2003 07:04 PM



thanks man.


