I'd like to do a strokerish type motor for my 96 accord lx. Gave up on boosting it, auto tranny isn't cheap to rebuild, so just want to add what I can safely. My HP goal is: Anything over stock
OK, basic plan: 100mm stroke, 2mm over-bore, rods 2.5mm shorter than stock (by 1mm to .5mm rule), hopefully 10:1 compression ratio (or whatever I can get, as long as it's on 93 pump-gas or under). Need help with: everything I didn't just cover, if what I just said is ok, and where do I get the 100mm stroke crank?

By the way, I'm new here, been on SHO for a while though. This is a tinker project for me, do what I can when time, money, and space/tools allow, so it's just for fun and learning (with the perk of a better engine when I'm done).

 

Give Bisimoto Engeneering a call. They can set you up with a 100mm stroke for the F22B*. Last time I looked into this it was in the $2700 price range. Price has probably changed over two years. 100mm crank, rods and any compression height piston you requested. (or they suggest for 93 pump)

You may also want to look at upgrading your head as well. Camshaft, upgraded springs & maybe even 1mm over intake & exhaust valves. You may also want to look into having the block sleeved. From what I have heard running an 87mm bore with the stock F22 sleeve thickness is touch and go. If you sleeve it and you are going to stay naturally aspirated, you can go up to 89-90mm bore easily.

 

Yea, I was kinda hoping to stay away from the stroker kits. They're really expensive, and I wanted something with a "personal touch". Why are the kits so high? Individual components might equal a little more than half that, is the rest R&D cost?
On the head, I know I'll have to do stuff with it, just wanted to get the bottom end sorted out before I started asking about that Planned on portmatching and smoothing the runners (and how would that work on the exhaust side?) Was thinking maybe some beehive springs to go in it, any opinions on those? Trying to keep the work to be done to what I can do myself for free at college, and I'm not sure if we have the skills or resources to resleeve the block. If I have to, I might just go 1mm overbore to be safe.
How much would it run to have the head setup for 1mm over valves?

 

OK, going to do some math, need stock rod length, I think it's 141.5, so correct me if that's not it.

 

The only individual components that would be half the price would be ones you could purchase off the shelf. aka production aftermarket parts. A 100mm stroke crank for the F22 would have to be machined therefore not a production part = more $$$. I'm pretty sure the shorter rods are custom as well = more $$$. The parts you can get off the shelf are the pistons.

If you don't want to sleeve it then 86mm would be a safe bore diameter. You could give 87mm a try but reliability may or may not become a factor. I'm sure there are a few 87mm stock sleeve builds out there. Just know 86mm is the limit in the spec sheet. If you want this build to last 100k or more I would stick to Honda's specs.

Call your local engine machine shop for a price on a 3 angle valve job with 1mm over valves. They would be the ones to ask about prices.

Yes the F22 has 141.5mm rods

 

HAHAHA! local machine shop!? The closest thing to that we have around here is a muffler shop :D I'll do some checking to make sure though. What would be the best company to get the crank from, and the rods. Just to make sure I'm right when asking for quotes, I need a f22b2 crank with a 100mm stroke, and f22b2 rods that are 2.5mm under stock length, right? Any other requests a good idea when asking companies for quotes? Thanks for the rod length answer, was pretty sure, but you know the old saying about assuming...

 

I have had conversations about stroker kits with both Bisimoto Engineering & Race Engineering. Ether of these companies can set you up with the information that you are looking for.

Shoot them an email or give them a call, they will be able to fill you in on the different possible ways to build a stroker and what parts to use.
www.raceeng.com
www.bisimoto.com

 

I'm familiar with bisimoto (as in heard of them ) so I'll e-mail them and come back with the results of the correspondence.

 

Waiting on response from bisimoto. How much will my redline go down with stroking this engine? Also, just read about stroking an engine by lengthening the rod, so could I just increase rod length by 2.5mm and leave the stock crank as it is?

 

I am going to be using an H22 rod (143mm) with a 29mm compression height piston and a stock 95mm crank. It is giving me a bit better Rod/stroke ratio. Stock-1.47 new-1.52. It does not change the displacement any significant amount if that's what your looking for.

143.5mm rods and 28.5mm compression height pistons will cost ya. With little to no gains.

My H22 rods where off the shelf (on sale) and the 29mm compression height x 89mm bore Wiseco pistons were only $100 more than an off the shelf 89mm pistons.

I got my stuff from the boyz at Race Engineering. Great bunch of guys to deal with.

 

yea, didn't have much faith in the idea, but thought it was worth a try Bisimoto can help with the pistons, checking on the crank and rods now. any good extra specifications I could make?

 

I didn't end up goign the 100mm stroke route so I'm not sure of any specs or parts that may be better than the other. Bisi told me everything I know about the stroker and I've forgotten & deleted the email. If your dealing with Bisi, he knows what's what. They also have better prices than F22parts by a few bucks.

 

That's true f22's got some good-looking stuff, but wish it was a little cheaper. I think I might go with bisimoto's level 2 camshaft, but what do you think about f22parts beehive springs? If they aren't a great improvement, I'll just go with bisimoto's pro springs, what's your opinion? For the cam gear, what would you suggest? Bisimoto says it's recommended with the cam, but should I go with theirs? To be shallowly honest, it doesn't match the rest of my engine bay :D But if it's good, I'll get over it. On the 1mm over valves, I'll have to think about it, doesn't look cheap at the moment, so how important are they? What's the highest compression that I can run with 93 octane? As far as fuel and ignition/timing goes, will I need to upgrade anything? I was thinking about AEM's new F/IC, but don't want to spend money on stuff that I don't need. Sorry for all of the questions, just trying to get my ducks in a row on this, even if it is going to be slow-going on the buying part.

 

I bought a custom grind cam from F22parts before I knew about Bisi. The cam prices are pretty equal though. My only beef was the delivery time. It took a bit longer than I expected. (6 weeks)

Don't know much about the beehive springs. I've read a few articles but I don't think the level two has enough lift to warrant beehives. If your going to use a Bisi cam I would stick to the Bisi line of valve train parts. However. I have seen some images posted of the Bisi upgrade springs and they just look like 90-93 F22A1 OEM yellow intake springs.

If I hadn't already bought a complete KMS Valve train kit. I would buy 16 OEM 90-93 F22A1 intake valve springs and call it a day. I haven't seen anyone post anythign to contradict these findings as of yet.

I have read that his has a directional lock type ring embedded in it which is a bonus. However, I have not heard anything bad about any of the non locking ring type, 5 bolt adjustable timing gears on the market. As long as they are torqued properly they work. I am also somewhat shallow and went with an AEM TRU time gear. Mainly due to the colour and the 5 bolts work for me.

Not that important. Until you start pushing to the extreme reaches of your engines potential. Then they are another piece of the puzzle for added intake & exhaust flow.

No pro here but from what I have been reading 12.5:1 is the norm. Some extreme 13:1s, with an incredible tune job, are floating around this site running 93 octane. I don't know how much daily driving they do though. I'm keeping mine under 12.5.

I have no experience with the AEM F/IC but I do know that Honda's ignition system is perfect for anythign under 10k rpm & 400whp. If you start pushing those envelopes or go into a more specific race application. The AEM EMS, CDI pencil coil & Engine Position Module (EPM) setup that Bisi sells. Would be the cream of the crop.

No problem, FYI, I tend not to believe many of the posts that I read on here without doing reasearch outside this site. There are lots of copy and past misinformation posts around. In saying that, take everything that I have posted above and google it. Read 5 other forums or as many tech articles you can find on a particular subject. Doesn't have to be Honda specific. Engine fundamentals are the same across the board. If you find something that you don't understand, your own research is your biggest asset.

 

I think I'll just stick with bisi on the cam the. Says that the level 2 is good for strokers, and price won't kill me, either
Ah well, on the valve springs, as you yourself said, better stick with bisimoto parts
Might just go with the bisi gear, I'll probably cover it back up after the cam is timed anyway, a lot of hardcore DD with gravel, pebbles and such.
Good to hear on the valves, 500-600 bucks for the valves plus the headwork involved ain't my cup of tea.
On the AEM unit, I was thinking about the fuel metering more than anything, but would the stock system be able to handle that?
I was thinking about an 11:1 CR (from 8.8:1, should be a pretty good jump, right? ) so good to know that it'll work.
Would it be alright to go ahead and port match the head (can I do this with the exhaust as well? Not sure and don't want to break stuff), upgrade the cam (and gear) and springs; then put the modified head on my stock engine til I get all the bottom end put together in my extra block? The cam says it'll add 15% in power (as in horse, I assume) and the springs shouldn't hurt performance, right? Any other head work I should think about doing?

 

Sorry I forgot to mention a key ingredient to pulling all these parts together. I'm pretty sure that you will require a tune after upgrading to the level 2 cam. Bisi would know for sure. In order to tune you will need a chipped ECU or aftermarket engine management system (AEM EMS, Motech or Haltech) that a tuner can use to properly tune your car. Maybe the AEM F/IC would work, again I'm not familiar how that works or what it works on.

Call a local tuner and see what they suggest to use to tune your car. Not much sense buying something that no one in your area can tune.

If you don't have any tuners in your area. I would wait before you start throwing level 2 parts in your car. Tuning is the key to how reliably your car runs in the end. No tune = a coin flip as to how long your engine will last, if it will even run.

 

That's a wrench in the plan for sure on the level 2 stuff. I have an OBDII car automatic transmission, don't know if that can even be tuned, got any suggestions? I'll check with the closest speed shop, going to try and pawn a used NOS nitrous system off on them anyway. I'll also check with bisimoto on their level 2 stuff just to make sure.

 

The level 2 can run without tuning (want to have it tuned when it's on the stroker block though) says bisimoto. Big problem with rods, though.
Bisimoto only offers their steel rods in stock lengths, no customs, and their GRP forged rods have a 40,000 mile lifespan, not what you want in a DD engine being built for reliability first. To be honest, the rod thing with bisimoto has ticked me off. I know where they're coming from on the steel rods (I guess ), but it would be might good of them to offer a custom rod with some longevity to it. Anyone with suggestions on where to go to get the rods? (I'll look myself, just want some outside advice/opinions on this too).