a/c compressor clicking on/off
so this past week i have noticed that my a/c stop working at times, about 50% of the time. seems to work when accelerating. so yesterday it was about 100 degrees out and i felt the car idling wierd. i opened up the hood and noticed that the a/c compressor was clicking on and off (engaging/disengaging).
does this mean that my a/c compressor is going out or is it something else? the only thing i messed with recently was the switching the fuel pump (walbro 255) back to the stock one and changing the fuel map back to the stock map.
does this mean that my a/c compressor is going out or is it something else? the only thing i messed with recently was the switching the fuel pump (walbro 255) back to the stock one and changing the fuel map back to the stock map.
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From: hard parked at the sandbar
lol man its supposed to cycle on and off. perfectly normal
its idling weird because the motor has to work even harder to power the compressor on top of the alternator and the powersteering.
its idling weird because the motor has to work even harder to power the compressor on top of the alternator and the powersteering.
i dont think so. it never done this before. it blew constant cold air for the pass 7 years i had it.
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so this past week i have noticed that my a/c stop working at times, about 50% of the time. seems to work when accelerating. so yesterday it was about 100 degrees out and i felt the car idling wierd. i opened up the hood and noticed that the a/c compressor was clicking on and off (engaging/disengaging).
does this mean that my a/c compressor is going out or is it something else? the only thing i messed with recently was the switching the fuel pump (walbro 255) back to the stock one and changing the fuel map back to the stock map.
does this mean that my a/c compressor is going out or is it something else? the only thing i messed with recently was the switching the fuel pump (walbro 255) back to the stock one and changing the fuel map back to the stock map.
thanks
-David
on the a/c line theres a pressure switch that commands the compressor to turn on and off... it is normal that it cycles on and off... but if it stays off more the on it could be low on freeon so its sending a signal to the pressure switch
Dump same thing is starting to happen to me. It works great when on and can feel it click on when driving. I come to a light and it idles and geos down to 200-300 rpm and starts clicking on and off like crazy... start driving and its all good.
Its weird though cause it will blow cold and its just as cold as ever but when it stops its just a little cooler then outside air. It only works for short periods of time and then I can get it to work for hours?
I can feel the pull on the engine when it clicks on while driving then I will stop and go and no stresss on engine, put hand by vents and sure enough stopped working. Drive a couple of miles and feel it click on again.
This just started happening a week ago and its starting to get warmer here so I wonder if that has anything to do with it?
Anyone find anything out what it could be ... a/c thermostate, condenser, fan switch, low on freon???
Its weird though cause it will blow cold and its just as cold as ever but when it stops its just a little cooler then outside air. It only works for short periods of time and then I can get it to work for hours?
I can feel the pull on the engine when it clicks on while driving then I will stop and go and no stresss on engine, put hand by vents and sure enough stopped working. Drive a couple of miles and feel it click on again.
This just started happening a week ago and its starting to get warmer here so I wonder if that has anything to do with it?
Anyone find anything out what it could be ... a/c thermostate, condenser, fan switch, low on freon???
Just get it recharged. Im sure you got a friend or you know how to check the pressure on the system. its not hard to recharge it. but dont use that cheap **** that autozone has with a clear hose attached to it and you squeeze a button or something. use the actual lines and sealed cans. i recommend you evacuated and recharge it over just toppin it off
Not sure if a Honda compressor can work properly at 200-300 engine RPM, not even sure the engine can run properly at 200-300 RPM, it should be at 650 RPM.
A compressor that turns on and off constantly, "short cycling" is a sign of a low refrigerant charge, a low charge will cause short cycling at any RPM.
A weak compressor could result in poor or no cooling at low RPM and OK cooling at higher RPM.
A weak clutch coil could be the problem.
A weak clutch relay can cause the problem.
A defective pressure switch could be the problem, it's easy to check, with engine running and A/C on, unplug it and use a jumper to connect the two leads, [yellow/white and blue/red
First thing I would check is the condenser fan, no airflow would result in high head pressure and poor cooling.
As mentioned by Acuronda_SloTeg do not use DIY A/C in a can type products, most contain sealers that can damage the system or worse hydrocarbons, [propane] that will contaminate the system.
Find an A/C shop that will not charge to test your system, we don't... http://airwolfeautoair.com/ but that's a bit of a drive, it is as simple as connecting up a set of gauges and only takes a few min.
If it is low on refrigerant, the correct, [and only accurate] way to charge the system is to recover what is still in the system, put system into vacuum for at least 45min to insure any and all moisture is boiled off and then recharged with the proper amount of R134a refrigerant. 94
A compressor that turns on and off constantly, "short cycling" is a sign of a low refrigerant charge, a low charge will cause short cycling at any RPM.
A weak compressor could result in poor or no cooling at low RPM and OK cooling at higher RPM.
A weak clutch coil could be the problem.
A weak clutch relay can cause the problem.
A defective pressure switch could be the problem, it's easy to check, with engine running and A/C on, unplug it and use a jumper to connect the two leads, [yellow/white and blue/red
First thing I would check is the condenser fan, no airflow would result in high head pressure and poor cooling.
As mentioned by Acuronda_SloTeg do not use DIY A/C in a can type products, most contain sealers that can damage the system or worse hydrocarbons, [propane] that will contaminate the system.
Find an A/C shop that will not charge to test your system, we don't... http://airwolfeautoair.com/ but that's a bit of a drive, it is as simple as connecting up a set of gauges and only takes a few min.
If it is low on refrigerant, the correct, [and only accurate] way to charge the system is to recover what is still in the system, put system into vacuum for at least 45min to insure any and all moisture is boiled off and then recharged with the proper amount of R134a refrigerant. 94
Not sure if a Honda compressor can work properly at 200-300 engine RPM, not even sure the engine can run properly at 200-300 RPM, it should be at 650 RPM.
A compressor that turns on and off constantly, "short cycling" is a sign of a low refrigerant charge, a low charge will cause short cycling at any RPM.
A weak compressor could result in poor or no cooling at low RPM and OK cooling at higher RPM.
A weak clutch coil could be the problem.
A weak clutch relay can cause the problem.
A defective pressure switch could be the problem, it's easy to check, with engine running and A/C on, unplug it and use a jumper to connect the two leads, [yellow/white and blue/red
First thing I would check is the condenser fan, no airflow would result in high head pressure and poor cooling.
As mentioned by Acuronda_SloTeg do not use DIY A/C in a can type products, most contain sealers that can damage the system or worse hydrocarbons, [propane] that will contaminate the system.
Find an A/C shop that will not charge to test your system, we don't... http://airwolfeautoair.com/ but that's a bit of a drive, it is as simple as connecting up a set of gauges and only takes a few min.
If it is low on refrigerant, the correct, [and only accurate] way to charge the system is to recover what is still in the system, put system into vacuum for at least 45min to insure any and all moisture is boiled off and then recharged with the proper amount of R134a refrigerant. 94
A compressor that turns on and off constantly, "short cycling" is a sign of a low refrigerant charge, a low charge will cause short cycling at any RPM.
A weak compressor could result in poor or no cooling at low RPM and OK cooling at higher RPM.
A weak clutch coil could be the problem.
A weak clutch relay can cause the problem.
A defective pressure switch could be the problem, it's easy to check, with engine running and A/C on, unplug it and use a jumper to connect the two leads, [yellow/white and blue/red
First thing I would check is the condenser fan, no airflow would result in high head pressure and poor cooling.
As mentioned by Acuronda_SloTeg do not use DIY A/C in a can type products, most contain sealers that can damage the system or worse hydrocarbons, [propane] that will contaminate the system.
Find an A/C shop that will not charge to test your system, we don't... http://airwolfeautoair.com/ but that's a bit of a drive, it is as simple as connecting up a set of gauges and only takes a few min.
If it is low on refrigerant, the correct, [and only accurate] way to charge the system is to recover what is still in the system, put system into vacuum for at least 45min to insure any and all moisture is boiled off and then recharged with the proper amount of R134a refrigerant. 94
Last edited by volcom40street2; May 20, 2010 at 12:45 AM.
Dump same thing is starting to happen to me. It works great when on and can feel it click on when driving. I come to a light and it idles and geos down to 200-300 rpm and starts clicking on and off like crazy... start driving and its all good.
Its weird though cause it will blow cold and its just as cold as ever but when it stops its just a little cooler then outside air. It only works for short periods of time and then I can get it to work for hours?
I can feel the pull on the engine when it clicks on while driving then I will stop and go and no stresss on engine, put hand by vents and sure enough stopped working. Drive a couple of miles and feel it click on again.
This just started happening a week ago and its starting to get warmer here so I wonder if that has anything to do with it?
Anyone find anything out what it could be ... a/c thermostate, condenser, fan switch, low on freon???
Its weird though cause it will blow cold and its just as cold as ever but when it stops its just a little cooler then outside air. It only works for short periods of time and then I can get it to work for hours?
I can feel the pull on the engine when it clicks on while driving then I will stop and go and no stresss on engine, put hand by vents and sure enough stopped working. Drive a couple of miles and feel it click on again.
This just started happening a week ago and its starting to get warmer here so I wonder if that has anything to do with it?
Anyone find anything out what it could be ... a/c thermostate, condenser, fan switch, low on freon???
Update::::
Ok I found out what the problem was. My ground wire that is supposed to be from the frame to the stud on valve cover was not placed correctly. I had it on my vavle cover, B18B, thought it looked cleaner. So i took it off and put it on the stub and then screw the crome nut down and perfect. Starts perfect and ac turns on and stays on all day... Im an idiot...
I only looked here because my car would not start after I would crank the ignition forward for like a second, like a delay. Knew it was some electrical or ground somewhere I left off. I remembered reading about the wire has to be connected to the engine not valve cover so switch and perfect... dumb mistake that could have cost me alot.
i have this same problem on my girls car. I just picked it up two days ago and I spent all day putting the ac in her car. when i was done i tried filing it up it took one whole can and maybe half of of another one. i noticed it would turn on then off real quick after seeeing this post i jump the pressure switch as fcm mentioned and the compressor would stay on. does this mean my pressure switch i bad? thanks guys
Last edited by worx; Jun 5, 2010 at 08:17 AM.
You installed a complete A/C system into a car?
What is the MM&Y of the car?
Did you put the proper amount of refrigerant oil, [PAG or Ester] into the system?
If not, DO NOT run system, damage will occur.
Did you put the system on a vacuum pump?
If not, there will be moisture in the system, not good.
A/C systems take a specific amount of oil and refrigerant, too much or too little of either can at the least result in poor cooling or at the worst damage the system.
You said, "it took one whole can and maybe half of of another one" what exactly did you put in, do you have a link to it or brand name? 94
What is the MM&Y of the car?
Did you put the proper amount of refrigerant oil, [PAG or Ester] into the system?
If not, DO NOT run system, damage will occur.
Did you put the system on a vacuum pump?
If not, there will be moisture in the system, not good.
A/C systems take a specific amount of oil and refrigerant, too much or too little of either can at the least result in poor cooling or at the worst damage the system.
You said, "it took one whole can and maybe half of of another one" what exactly did you put in, do you have a link to it or brand name? 94
the car is a 94 integra rs which came with no ac. i took all the ac out of a ls except for the compressor i had that already from a previous 94 ls i owned. i did not put the system on a vacum pump. i used some sealed can from kragen Johnsen's 134a refrigerant
i think imma just take it to a ac shop have them empty it all out then recharge it properly its in my girls car so i dont want any thing messing up. thanks FCM.
i think imma just take it to a ac shop have them empty it all out then recharge it properly its in my girls car so i dont want any thing messing up. thanks FCM.
Last edited by worx; Jun 5, 2010 at 08:18 AM.
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