94 accord ex / h22 wiring
I've read the FAQ. search and searched... I still didnt get a solid answer on whats needed on wiring for 94 accord with vtec and h22 swap.
"Use the Accord harness, and ECU for the H22 (obviously.) Unless your car was an EX the harness must be modified or a harness from an F22B1 used."
the rest of the FAQ says wat wires to add and to lengthen. but what if I got the f22b1 harness, which ones dont i have to add and which ones dont i have to lengthen. Anyone with a good explanation would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
J
"Use the Accord harness, and ECU for the H22 (obviously.) Unless your car was an EX the harness must be modified or a harness from an F22B1 used."
the rest of the FAQ says wat wires to add and to lengthen. but what if I got the f22b1 harness, which ones dont i have to add and which ones dont i have to lengthen. Anyone with a good explanation would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
J
I believe for the EX's you need to switch 2 pins on the ECU.....A6 and A11???
But besides that I believe you are good. Been awhile since I read the whole wiring thing again for that.
But I do know that for the EX you have to at least do that.
But besides that I believe you are good. Been awhile since I read the whole wiring thing again for that.
But I do know that for the EX you have to at least do that.
wrong.
Lengthen iat wires about 6-8 " to reach the iat sensor now that it will be on the ds next to the brake booster (instead ion the rear of the manifold)...
If you use a JDM internal dizzy for the Swap, it will plug right into the harness as well.
The only thing thats a pain is figuring out which sensors go to their respective plugs for all oif the two pin plugs on the head/therm housing for water/oil... Theyre not the same as the F in layout, but you dont need to change ****... cant remember offhand how i changed mine as i used the h series housings, but its no big deal.
swap them till the cel goes away. Using ectune it was easy as hell to figure out.
This is what I did on my EX(94 Accord) harness.
Intake Air Temp: Green/Blue&Red/Yellow extend a good 5in
Map: Yellow/White Green/White, White/yellow , Green. I didn’t extend this one because mine is mounted on the throttle body, NOT the firewall, Only extend if its on the firewall
EGR Lift Solenoid: Green/blue, White/Black, yellow/Blue.
IAC Valve: Black/blue, Yellow/Black.
Alternator Power Wire: Extend a good 2 inches, and use thicker solder(I heard its the same length as H22 but I extended mine anyway.)
Oil Pressure Sender: Don't know the color code but I just cut it from the harness that came with my h22 and splice it to my F22 harness or you can swap out the H22 for the F22 Oil Pressure sensor.
About swapping the A6 & A11 pins(02 sensor & EGR), Its true that you will also need to swap these pins because its backwards on the 94-97 Accords.
Intake Air Temp: Green/Blue&Red/Yellow extend a good 5in
Map: Yellow/White Green/White, White/yellow , Green. I didn’t extend this one because mine is mounted on the throttle body, NOT the firewall, Only extend if its on the firewall
EGR Lift Solenoid: Green/blue, White/Black, yellow/Blue.
IAC Valve: Black/blue, Yellow/Black.
Alternator Power Wire: Extend a good 2 inches, and use thicker solder(I heard its the same length as H22 but I extended mine anyway.)
Oil Pressure Sender: Don't know the color code but I just cut it from the harness that came with my h22 and splice it to my F22 harness or you can swap out the H22 for the F22 Oil Pressure sensor.
About swapping the A6 & A11 pins(02 sensor & EGR), Its true that you will also need to swap these pins because its backwards on the 94-97 Accords.
wrong.
Lengthen iat wires about 6-8 " to reach the iat sensor now that it will be on the ds next to the brake booster (instead ion the rear of the manifold)...
If you use a JDM internal dizzy for the Swap, it will plug right into the harness as well.
The only thing thats a pain is figuring out which sensors go to their respective plugs for all oif the two pin plugs on the head/therm housing for water/oil... Theyre not the same as the F in layout, but you dont need to change ****... cant remember offhand how i changed mine as i used the h series housings, but its no big deal.
swap them till the cel goes away. Using ectune it was easy as hell to figure out.
Lengthen iat wires about 6-8 " to reach the iat sensor now that it will be on the ds next to the brake booster (instead ion the rear of the manifold)...
If you use a JDM internal dizzy for the Swap, it will plug right into the harness as well.
The only thing thats a pain is figuring out which sensors go to their respective plugs for all oif the two pin plugs on the head/therm housing for water/oil... Theyre not the same as the F in layout, but you dont need to change ****... cant remember offhand how i changed mine as i used the h series housings, but its no big deal.
swap them till the cel goes away. Using ectune it was easy as hell to figure out.
What I said was not wrong. You do have to switch the A6 and A11 pins on the ECU. The LX and DX have the real wiring to do, or if there is an OBD-1 conversion going on.
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RedCd5TX
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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