With money being no object (don't get me wrong, I'm not rich), how should one go about making a fast n/a car in terms of items in order.
At the moment I have a b16a w/ rsr headers, n1 exhaust (2.25"), aem CAI, MSD, vitek wires, spoon flywheel, AFC vtec controller, short shifter ... and soon to have Hondata Stage3

Where should I go from here?

 

race cams...valvetrain...headwork...high comp. pistons

 

Money no object......lose the 1600!!!!

 

you'll need lot of weight reduction. fully gutted, lexan windows. cams, milled & P&P head. new valve train. chipped ecu to rev past stock rev limit. fuel management. no cat, axles. if you want keep me informed on progress i'll help you tune it

 

b20

 

b20= Sweet NA motor.

The b16 sould be fun though.
Spoon JUN TODA Ferra, valves,retainers,rollers rockers cams cam gears high comp pistons, valve springs and lifters+balenced crank pistons p&p +110 octane
= 13,000 rpm! DO IT!

keep us updated and let us know whats going on.

Blaze PS dont forget to tune it DUh.


[Modified by Blaze45, 9:54 PM 8/21/2002]

 

Sleeve it bore it maybe 84-85mm, high comp. pistons, eagle rods. Port & polish the head, get a big set of cams, Toda, C's or maybe Jun III's (valve train of course), TWM Itb's, and an SMSP header should do the trick.

Definatly be a fast all motor setup.

 

HMMMMM that sounds like my motor

 

Boost that son of a bitch!

 

NA project b20 it, or if u are rich sleeve a b20 and do huge overbore. VTEC head u have it a + use it on the b20 and enjoy VTEC and torque
weight reduction isint nessecary with a b20VTEC, u should easily see 13's with a mild setup

 

skunk2 racing vavletrain, hondata, LSD, lighten the fVck out of the car.

You could get a b20 block or a b18 block but instead you could keep the b16 block which is a bit lighter then both of those and get the TODA STROKER kit.
http://www.mechasports.com/msr_catal...oda_csk01.html Stroker kit is like 2500$

also consider adj. cam gears for best tuning. Rev to 10k or so.
lot's of dyno time.

 

why not h22a

 

Yes it would

T.... your shiz' is weak j/k hahha
you got that POS up and broken in..??

 

Haha, H22A would totally distort the weight distribution.
Ok I'll keep this stuff in mind - first thing though I think I would do up valve train work.

btw, is Hondata the best EMU out there for tuning Honda cars?
I'm looking at the Stage3 at the moment.

 

yes
work on the head.
P&P that baby, get titanium valve+springs+retainers, 3 angle valve job, get an CTR intake cam and a ITR exhaust cam, upgrade ur fuel system (fuel rail, inyectors, pump, FPR)
yes Hondate ECU's are gooooooooood. a friend of mines in australia has them on his B16A2 EG6 and says its the ****....
then reinforce the bottom end...rods, high comp pistons, etc...

 

ive seen lots of quick b16a hittin 12's with just bolt ons and simple motor work. however.. if money aint an issue then get an ls or b20 bottom end..if u get an ls bore it out to at least 84mm..with some eagle rods and high compression pistons (wiseco, ross, je etc) if u get a b20 block bore the biiztch out too..then port and polish with some wicked cams..id go with skunk2 or some crowers cams and use their valvetrain..ferrea valves..u dont gotta get no todas or jun cams dont be a JDM nutrider..america parts such as crower and skunks perform just as good and are hella lot cheaper too..R intake manny,ITB's throttle body, etc as listed in the other posts above..

 

u need a 1.8 or more i have a ls motor in my crx intake hedder i run 13 flat and its stock with a one layer head gasket ls ls/vtec or vtec it doesnt matter as londg as its a 1.8 or