I own a rebuilt gsr with itr cam, piston, managed with an hondata s200 I also own a moroso 5l with full of baffles(the rest of the list is very long)... .

My problem is oil... consuption and pressure and/or maybe temp... I have tried different grade from different brand but I still have the same problem... lost of the vtec after let say a 20 min of track, mostly in or just after a big sweeper...it drop around around 40... The oldest the oil is, worst it get... And when I do many session, sometimes after only 8-10 mins the problem start to occur...

I'm trying to understand what could cause that lost of pressure? Is it oil temps that get too high that it lost it's property to keep the pressure? Does anyone with a similar setup to mine had ever have that problem and find a way to solve it...?? I have a lot of friens with b16 and itr that dosen't have that prob... They do have that prob when the oil level gets to low (no more oil in the pan for the pick up) but with my big 5 liters and baffles pan, level should not be my prob...

I'm a track addict and this problem is getting very annoying...

 

Try looking at the oil pump

 

in for some opinions / information... i have the same problem except with stock setup but it was as you mentioned when the oil level gets low.. the car holds roughly 75 psi of oil pressure when i am full throttle and spikes to 80 .. but that changes to 60psi when the oil is a little bit low. i have never used an oil pan like yours but i have experienced a stock oil pan with DIY weld in baffles.

 

What oil temps are you seeing?
What direction is the sweeper?
Are you seeing any smoke?
What viscosity are you using?
Before each session are you making sure the oil is topped up to the max level?

 

i dont care how old or new the motor is when you run a B at high RPM or with Power you will burn oil. i have a similar set up in my race car and i have lost a 1/2 a bottle of oil in a race. but my motor will see 9K rpms for most of the race. you need t o keep any eye on you temps,and psi. if you should have an oil cooler to keep the temps down that will help with the thinning of the oil and it it still happens replace the pump. also check the screen on the vtec solenoid for blockage

 

I do burn oil, And I think it come from the valve guide, not piston ring since it make a big puff every time I start the engine back after I let the car rest for a couple mins after a strong session of lapping. But I'm really always aware, so yes the oil level is topped between each session, even 1/2 quart over to prevent lost of vtec in counter clock sweepers...

I have try 5w30/5w40/5w50/10w40... No noticeable change tomorrow i'm switching to 10w50.

I know the pick up in the pan is drivers side so counter clock sweeper could cause the oil to be all tossed right side in the pan an not feeding the oil pump pick up properly... But when the oil is new or in the beginning of a session, I don't experience the vtec lost... Anyways, like I said i'm really carefull with that! I thought at fisrt it was my prob and that's why I bough the big moroso 5L baffles oil pan...it didn't solve the prob...

Finally I don't have an oil temp gauge, only oil pressure... My personal guess is oil temps that would leed my oil to get thinner and thinner... But would that be enough that the pump couldn't built enough pressure for the solenoid? And why would this happen only after a big sweeper? And what could cause my oil temp to become so high compare to other B18c? I also remember that the car was doing the same before the rebuilt on big track like Calabogie Motorsport...

An other guess would be internal pressure? Could I built enough internal pressure (I'm not running a catch can) that it could cause a prob?

I need imputs on theses questions? Any engine cracked head here that could give me clues??

I'm gonna check the screen of the Vtec solenoid but why would it clog when oil is hot or old and not when it'new or at the right temp?

 

Just throwing this out there...you didn't happen to forget the little green O-ring between the head and the block? I've had a couple of freinds who have done this and had similar issues.

How old is the oil pump?

 

Do you have a catch can ?

If it isn't done already, block every hole at the back of the block, and vent by the VC.

 

I didn't do the rebuilt myself, I don't have all the talent... but i'm curious and not totally noob in engine... what little green o ring your talking about? what does it seal?

 

I have read a lot on catch can last winter and I'm planning on installing one soon for sure, but why would that be the prob? Other buddy I have don't run one either and don't have any prob... I don't have a monster turbo built... only 191 whp n/a...

 

The o-ring surrounds a small dowel between the block and head. It seals the oil supply to the head. If the head looses oil pressure it would make sense that your getting smoke and a loss of vtec. However, it could very well be the oil pump or something up with the oil passages/piston sprayers...ect.

I would tear into the motor asap if I we're you.

 

That's a new theory that i've never heard before...interesting... But if that was the problem, what would be the relation with the oil temps? Cause my lost of vtec always occur once the oil is very hot...15-20 mins intense lapping... I'm trying to understand....

 

this sound good but it is a good way to blow the motor. you can remove and block the can on the back on the block, but you should still use the vent that goes into the can. that can is a return for the oil.

 

What could cause oil temp to raise up excessively?

 

lots of engines only vent through the valve covers, that's a fine way to do it. The vent(s) on the top of the black box is not an oil return. You can safely plug that hole too.

 

Well, I don't know what the type of club racing has to do with my prob... I'm not a newbie if this is what you need to know... I do lap more than an hour a week for 4 years, I do time attack and also autocross...

So back to the topic, yes I know hi rev is the main factor to raise oil temp, but I'm looking for more uncommon reasons of hi temp oil that could leed to loosing pressure... The prob is as soon as my oil gets hot ( and I guess, very hot cause it's a hi-rev short track) I start loosing pressure out of some left turn corner...

How many hour of track you guys doing on an oil change? 3h? 4h? 5h? before changing it?

I do drive the car on street on a daily basis... It dosen't burn oil even if I hi rev it for fun... But on track it's totally different... it can burn 1/2-1 quart per hour depending on how old is the oil... I never do more than 1000 miles on an oil change... An other thing I have notice, is t that the oil turn dark fast after an hour of track... not on street driving...

 

when you remove the box on the back of the motor you will find a big hole about 1 1/4 inch around near the bottom of the box. that hole is to return the oil back to the motor and venting. when you have blow by or make high HP it will catch oil in that box and return it to the motor. the box also has a tube that vent from the back of the block into the box and then out to the intake.

MAXOGSR, check the screen on the vtec solenoid and test the vtec psi switch.

Do you know what your temps are at this time?

I will change the oils after a 3 hours endro or two weekends of racing (which is about 4Hrs)

 

try the redline RACE 40wt or 50wt oil

Or Mobile1 15-50

On motors that have had oil issues these seem to be the only oils that can handle the abuse.

 

I had a similar problem with my previous car (DC2R with 2.0)... after 3-4 laps the vtec stopped to enganged, the problem was the oil cooler, removed the oil cooler and the problem was solved... Don't know if you have a oil cooler...

 

Many good clue guys keep on posting if you got new flash... I have a big weekend comming on at Shannonville in July and I migh try the redline w40... And I will definitly look for a catch can soon... I will check the screen of the solenoid this next weekend...

No RicTRD I don't have an oil cooler right now... There again, I heard it could make low pressure issues happen (I've heard), so it will be my last try... I'll pop the head at fall if I could not solve the prob then...

I will keep on posting news from different tries I'll make...

 

My friend running a H4 car blew 2 Z6's due to oil slosh in long left hand sweepers. Basically you are pulling ~1.0G in turns with race tires, and the oil will crawl up the shallow end of the pan and wrap around the crank, oil starving the engine. I'd be curious to see the insides of which pan you have, plus you may need a crank scraper.

 

The Moroso pan has baffles to prevent the oil starvation you're describing.

 

In everything i have seen and that has been reported, that isn't the case, at least not at 1G. For cars that are on slicks, yes maybe, but not for cars on DOT R compound tires.


The z6 heats the oil a crap ton in the head. There are a ton of moving parts in very very little space. The drain back holes are no different the any other SOHC motor.

So the oil gets pumped to the head, gets super heated, and then has trouble getting back to the pan.

Many people run thin oil to combat this, that is a horrible idea..

For the z6 run 40wt or 50wt Redline race oil or Mobile1 15-50, and run a good oil cooler, with -10AN lines.

This combination along with a good build, by someone who knows the z6 will result in a powerful reliable motor.


I sold off my z6 with 3 sprint racing seasons, and 1 25 hour race on it. I thought it would be good for the buyer to check things over before running it.

He did, and said everything looked perfect, looked amazing.

 

but from what i understand is a hit or miss on sealing correctly.

 

Depends which pan. The "modified OEM" one is apparently fine, while the nifty galifty welded aluminum one can be problematic. I'm not sure if the newest ones have that issue though.