I did a small write up on my website reguarding the Battery relocation in 88-91 Honda crx's.. if anyone is interested check it out...

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/battery.html

 

Looks good man, nice clean install, and good little price list at the end.

If you dont mind me asking how much was your box? And is it heavy?
Thanks.

 

The aluminum box? it weighs about 10lbs.. its really oversized for what it is...
I think it cost like 75 bucks at summit racing.

Jeff

 

Awww damn!! Good spot for the ground!! I have been using my pass. rear strut for a year!! Its a pain in the *** when I want to do sus work. Good job!

 

Drag racing people....

Keep in mind that depedning on where you go to race, the following things are required on a hatchback car with the battery relocated to the rear...

1). A certified battery box. Usually the thin plastic boat and rv type don't cut it.

2). A kill switch. Should kill all power in the car. Removing the alternator belt so that you only have to kill the battery lead is usually acceptable.

3). 5/8" bolts on your battery tie down. The bolts must pass through the tie down, and through the floor board of the car.

From what the track officials explained to me, the above is NOT dependant on what times you car runs. The above should be installed on even a 16 second car.

Many small tracks with loose tech will let you pass with setups like the one detailed by Abaz, but if you don't want to take your chances, install the above items. As an example, I went to Norwalk Raceway in Ohio, and they didn't check any of that. I passed without the tech even noticing the battery in the rear. I went to National Trail in Ohio, and they wanted to know the bolt size, to know if the switch worked, who the box was made by, where it was grounded, etc etc....

I just want to give a heads up to people who plan on doing a lot of racing. It might be better to just go get a certified box and enough wire to do a switch right from the get go. Also, it sucks to show up at the track and have them turn you away after you've done a bunch of work.


Anyway, sweet write up...

 

The kill switch sucks though. I would put one in but I don't feel like driving around town with a switch on the back of my car.

If it could be mounted inside or under the rear part of the car then I would do it.

 

Why don't you guys just get a nice Optima Yellow / Red top? Better battery, dry-cell, so you don't need a battery box or anything. Look better. Safer. Don't leak. etc.

 

Some people mount them behind the license plate so that they can just take off the plate.

I agree though... it looks stupid. I never really thought they would care at tech, but they did.

 

I ordered an optima sealed battery from summit....... You are supposed to use SEALED batteries if they are inside the cabin because batteries release poisonous fumes...

Dustin

 

I can't stress enough how important it is to use a non-acid cell battery (like an Optima) when installing it inside the passanger compartment. No only because of fumes, but imagine being in a serious crash that cracks open the battery and sends the acid flying.

 

We have been drag racing at Pacific Raceways for over 3 years now, and we have never had a problem with any of our batterys in the rear. Metal boxes or Plastic...

Now if we were to compete in real racing not a (Test and Tune) etc... Yes it would be a problem.

It is very true that having a battery in the rear will release some fumes into the cab of the car over time... I also recommend getting a Gel Cel battery, but like this write up said.. Low-Budget



My White Dx uses a Orbital Dry Cell Battery

 

I have a Optima Red top. I had my car down for three months and forgot to unhook the battery. It runs fine now but the first couple days it was hell.

I remember stalling the car (high FP) then after cranking a high pitch whine started to come out of my battery box. And I could smell this foul odor. It works fine now....weird.

Switch behind the license plate......hmmm

 

I know when I worked for Interstate Batteries, they would sometimes get in what they called 'blem' gel-cell batteries...much cheaper than new...and they pretty much are new...look for something like that...find out if there's an interstate distributor around where you live...and go to their warehouse...you might get lucky...