I just installed the pro 2 in the car. Its a jdm type r with about 80k. skunk 2 vlave train, H/I/E, port and polished head. The previous owner had it tuned with the H/I/E and vlave train.
I added the pro 2 and when i tried starting the car it wouldnt start unless i gave it gas. When it finally started the idle was terrible i had to keep giving it gas so it wouldnt die. So i took it for a drive and it drives fine. It just cant keep idle without the gas

So i adjusted the throttle screw with the flat head screw driver ( dont really know what that part is called sry) and the idle was a lil better. Its idling at 400-1000 up and down huffinf and puffin. I know the idle was suppose to change but it sounds like garb bar barbabrbabr. When driving car pulls hard and everything. Its the idle issue.

 

Get it tuned.

 

s2p2s are not a drop in cam!!! You really have to check your clearances and have it tuned to get it to run right. Are your gears at 0,0?

 

are you using k-pro? if so seems its a tuning issue. We have installed quite a few stage 2's on basically stock motors and have not had a problem with idle what so ever.

 

kpro it sounds like he has a jdm type R motor(b18c)


were the cams degreed in?

 

Im using hondata s200, i just found out to check the clearances. The cam gears are 0,0 degreed. Going to check the clearance today. If the clearnace checks out ok. The idle, would thatbe the tune then????

 

yeah sorry i thought you had a K series motor for some reason. Well i hope the info i gave you over the phone is helpful to solve your idle issues.

 

0, 0 is not considered a great place to start with the P2 cams. Send me your email address through PM and I can help.

 

I had the same peoblem also, those cams need to be degreed into the motor, then tune it again man.

 

Once those cams are degreed and tuned they have a slight rough idle...yes or no?

 

Yes, the idle is pretty rough with the s2p2's.

 

Not on my engine. Tuning is key.

 

Maybe I should have clarified, not rough but able to hear some valve overlap @ idle in the exhaust.

 

So basically i will need to get a tune for the degree of the camgears and then get another tune for the air fuel??? The car drives fine when not at idle, but at idle its huffin and puffin like 300-700rpm's. Just curious i know every car is different, but do you guys have ur cam gears degreed too???

 

Mine are set at -1 intake +4 exhaust. Havent run it yet but this is where mine was safe. At 0I,0E the valves where .005" from touching each other in vtec. and +1I,0E they hit each other so you are probably playing with death right now.

 

My Pro3's idle at 850 RPM smooth with a little hint of cam. Was the same when I had Pro2's.

You should not run Pro series cams at 0,0, there is very VERY little room between the valves at low lift on the VTEC lobe. If you had them degreed to Skunk2 centerlines, your gears should be somewhere in the ~ -1 Intake and ~ +3 Exhaust unless you have some serious material off your head and block.

A trick I use is I adjust the throttle stop (allen adjust on the underside of the throttle pulley) until you can just barely see light showing through the throttle plate. I run a little more timing than usual, about 19-20* BTDC at idle. This seems to smooth it out a bit. Fueling should be close to stoichiometric, or a tad rich.

 

This is what degreeing in the cams look like:




Maybe i should have been more specific.

You can hear the car lope at idle, yes. It shouldnt have any crazy 300-1000rpm idle fluxuation though.

 

put the cams in, then if you can zero it out, then go to get them degreed. Thats what i did. Then i went and had the car tuned. Yes when your driving, everything will be good, until you come to a stop.

 

My degreed pro2's idle amost like stock. no problems