so this will be my first time building a bottom end.....pretty excited! but i have some questions for the hondoctors out there. i recently got a a bottom end for next to nothing cause it spun two rod bearings. the no.1 and no.2 journals definitely need to be reground and it makes me sweaty cause i really only wanted to use oem honda bearings, cause they are tried and true. since the crank needs to be sent out, are there any good aftermarket bearing companys that you guys trust? and if so can their bearings support a potentially 9k rpm motor?

 

Use oem bearings.

 

id really like to but the crank needs to be reground. they take off a minimum of .005 thousanths off each journal so the clearances wouldnt be right. does honda make bearings with different thickness's? i mean obviously they do cause not all their motors are biult the same but can you get different thickness's for one motor? i thought they would all be specific for each motor.

 

find another crank. i would not grind a honda crank.

 

You can get a handful of different thicknesses. The bearings you had in there were probably all different thicknesses.

 

they were all factory honda bearings. im not sure if each journal has different clearances but i doubt it, being stock...it just doesnt make sense. i know i can find different size bearings from aftermarkey company's like ACL etc. do you know if honda makes OEM bearings with different thickness's for a specific motor, i.e. b18c1? or would i have to go with an aftermarket company like ACL?

 

X2

Also, OP should replace the rods.

Honda makes seven bearing thickness, see link below.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...light=bearings

 

why wouldnt you grind a honda crank? have you had bad experiences? just cause the journals are scored a smidgen doesnt mean the crank is trashed. it happens all the time to race teams and other people who build any kind of motor.

 

are you agreeing with him? i will be...it'll be a complete rebuild. i would never use burnt rods in my motor.

 

Heres' a smidgen of advice I learned a while ago.

A smart man learns from his mistakes.
A wise man learns from the mistakes of others.

Been there done that and the results were not positive.

 

Yes, see above.

 

i totally agree with that saying. thats why im asking questions about it. so youve had a crank reground and the right bearings installed with all the right clearances and you still had a problem?

 

thank you for the link you attached. pretty helpful, i had no idea they made such a variety and especially some you can mix and match to find your desired clearances. much appreciated.

 

Yes, I wound up with another spun bearing.

 

damn...well thats wonderful news!! lol.. do you have any idea where i can find a used gsr crank? they are hard to find and brand new ones...well i might as well buy a long block lol.

 

NP, but the thanks goes to Earl. I was just fortunate enough for someone to point me in the right direction.

One last thing. The key to making power is to have the right clearance and for those clearances to be the same. As in the same bearing clearance # for every rod and the same bearing clearance # on the mains except the middle. The same PTW on every cylilnder, the same ring gap on every psiton, the same ring clocking, etc.

 

You could use a ls crank and rods.

I have been able to find them in the for sale and the WTB on here.

 

i have thought about that actually. it would be nice to get that little bit of extra torque too. are there any advantages using gsr rods with the ls crank or do you have to use ls rods, i.e. length i guess....will it affect compression or be up in the combustion chamber to far?

 

dont listen to these indivudals saying get another crank. not blue printing the block is probably what caused the spun bearing. its perfectly fine to cut journals. have the machine shop measure the rod journal diameter and rod inner diameter. add those to and times it by the bearing thickness you want to use. since its cut you'll be on the tighter side of the chart. voila, everything is within spec.

 

Lol.

Simply cutting the journals and measuring is not enough. What about magfluxing the journals to check for damage lower than your "cuts". How about rebalancing the shaft after its been cut or cleaning out all of the oil passages. If you go through all of that you could have bought a new crankshaft from acura or honda.

Like I said, go get another crank.

 

thats not completely true though. i went and got a quote on getting it cut and balanced and of course they will hot tank it after they work on it. they even supply bearings. all the work together they quoted me 250$ plus shipping. the reason i was asking about bearings is cause i wanted to supply my own bearings. it would make it even cheaper. id have a balanced, ploished refreshed crank with race bearings. idk....id like to keep doing research and see what other peoples experiences are before i start. thanks for all the input.

 

the crank i have isnt that bad. it barely has scores on it but enough on no. 2 to concern me. also new cranks from honda are 1k and higher, can you say spendy. machine shops arent that expensive, even reputible ones.

 

Ok, I was a little over board with getting a crank from acura or honda but if you get your crank fixed the right way say at $250. I can find 2 or 3 cranks on here for that price.

 

sorry to get off topic here but what shop quoted you that?

and i've heard many a time of repairing a crank completely and it being fine. it all depends on if its done correctly. if everything is right then it should be perfect and in my opinion you wouldn't need to go buy a new crank.