I have a 97 civc ex coupe. Did the h22a swap earlier this year. Last week the car started acting wierd. I was driving down the highway got stuck in traffic then the car got really hot. Only did that once thankfully, also when i am driving the car sometimes hesitates, when i accelerate it pauses or maybe even bogs a little before it pulls as it should during acceleration. Also while i am driving the car gets kinda jerky every now and then. The timing was checked 2 weeks ago have not checked since this started. It has brand new ngk spark plugs, ngk blue plug wires, cap and rotor. Any information would be appreciated.

 

does it have a blown head gasket?

 

Not that i know of, how exactly would i check for that. Never had a head gasket problem before so i would not know what to look for.

 

i forgot to mention that it had a low idle, i tightened up the throttle cable and the idle was fine for a day or so and then back to low idle, somewhere round 400 rpms.

 

Is the CEL ON?

Does the radiator fan fail to run when the engine is hot? Is the coolant level low in either the radiator or reservoir? Have you tried to bleed the cooling system?

 

The only cel that comes on is the egr valve, but that has been on since i did the swap. I noticed my coolant level a few weeks ago and took it to the shop that has been helping me with this, we refilled and bleed my coolant and it has been fine every since. The fan does come on as advertised.

 

So the overheating problem is completely solved? If not, consider replacing the thermostat.

When did you last try pulling codes? Maybe a new code has popped up.

Does your engine actually have an EGR system?

 

I have not checked it at all this week, i usually do just to make sure. I will check in a few to see if i got anything else showing up. And yes the overheating issue has been solved or at least has not come back. The only part of the egr system i have is the egr valve it selve, nothing else came with the swap. I was told once i get a p28 and hondata s300 i can turn that off.

 

I don't think that the original 97 Civic EX coupe had an EGR system, so can I assume that the H22a engine has an EGR system? If so, you might want to check whether the EGR valve ports and passages are clogged up.

 

just check cel codes and the only one coming up is the egr code 12. Yes you are correct the egr system was not originally part of the civic. On the h22 i have the egr valve itself but i don't have the rest of the system for it to actually work. Did not come with the motor.

 

For motors with an EGR system, if this system is not working properly, the engine will run like crap. I don't know how this would affect your engine set up. The swap gurus should be able to give a straight answer. Did you plug up the EGR valve? Also, I think the EGR valve is attached by a port to the IM and below the valve is a chamber with a network of passages. You might want to pull this all apart and inspect the port and passages for clogging. Or are you planning on replacing the IM?

 

It has been running fine up until 2 weeks ago, the egr valve is not plugged just the unplugged the sensor. Really had not thought about replacing the im.

 

Is there no one else out there that has any idea of what my problem is.

 

Update, the idle has gotten worse and now my car is backfiring.

 

Back firing suggests a timing issue.

 

Let me ask you, it makes a popping and a gurgling sound in the exhaust and to me that is back firing, would you consider that back firing. I have tried checking the timing myself but i just can't see it myself.

 

Yes, that sounds like back firing.

What can't you see? Did you jump the service connector and hook up a timing gun?

 

I have not done it before and really had no idea what i was doing, but it did do that.

 

Here's the general procedure for Civics:

 

I have seen that but as far as i know, for the 94 h22 it is done using the gun and the fly wheel

 

This site had this information:
93-95 Honda Prelude Ignition Timing Adjustment
For doing the adjustment on Prelude, you will need a timing light. The car must first be warmed up until the fan turns on. Timing marks for timing light are exposed by removing the rubber cap from inspection window on the cylinder block, by the bell housing. Also, the ignition timing check connector must be jumped. It is located under center of dash. See the drawing below for its location.

Connect jumper wire between the Blue/White and Brown/White wire terminals.
To adjust timing, loosen distributor hold-down bolts and turn distributor housing counterclockwise to advance or clockwise to retard timing. Align the pointer with the Red timing mark.
When the job is done, tighten the distributor bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 N.m). and recheck timing.
If it is all OK, remove the jumper from the ignition timing check connector. Reinstall the cap into inspection window on the cylinder block.

 

is the ignition check terminal going to be located with the rest of the harness where it connects to the ecu, and this may be dumb but would it be the same plug that i would jump the check cel codes

 

I would think so. Hopefully, those with H22 swaps will chime in.

 

Im not going to get my hopes up, you are the only person who has really helped my trouble shoot the problem

 

i have and h22a in my 96 hatch and i have this exact same problem, does your idle bounce occasionally? i traced that to a map sensor.