*Ingalls camber kit - opinions and experiences?*
Alright all,
Iam considering getting a Ingalls camber kit for the EK.
Just wanted to hear what everyones opinion is on them. Done a bit of searching on the forum and havn't really been able to make out whats what.
So, whats everyones thoughts on them?
linky
http://www.ingallseng.com/35720-3573...rm-mounts.html
http://www.ingallseng.com/38930-rear...pacer-kit.html
Thanks guys
Iam considering getting a Ingalls camber kit for the EK.
Just wanted to hear what everyones opinion is on them. Done a bit of searching on the forum and havn't really been able to make out whats what.
So, whats everyones thoughts on them?
linky
http://www.ingallseng.com/35720-3573...rm-mounts.html
http://www.ingallseng.com/38930-rear...pacer-kit.html
Thanks guys
Never had the Adjustable Anchor Bolts. I did have the Ingalls Adjustable Ball Joints though. On a DA Integra. It was a bitch to get the OEM Ball Joints out of the Upper A Arms, but other than that, It was a good quality piece. It didn't hit anything, or bottom out on the fender.
If I had to do it over again, I think I would just go with the Upper A Arm Camber Kit. Just for it's simplicity, and ease. But, If I got one hell of a deal on the Adjustable Upper Ball Joints, then I would definately jump on it.
If I had to do it over again, I think I would just go with the Upper A Arm Camber Kit. Just for it's simplicity, and ease. But, If I got one hell of a deal on the Adjustable Upper Ball Joints, then I would definately jump on it.
was your car particually low?
iam not sure which ingalls kit it was but iv read on here that they can mess up your suspension geometry?
iam not sure which ingalls kit it was but iv read on here that they can mess up your suspension geometry?
Hated them. Seriously hated them.
The only real issue I had was that it is darn near impossible for the alignment tech to keep the caster correct while adjusting. Since each of the 2 anchors on each wheel can be adjusted separately, any difference between them causes incorrect caster settings. Additionally, the full published range of adjustment is not possible without using a large hammer to reshape the shock tower (the UCA itself hits if you adjust more negative).
The benefit of them is that they don't destroy the available suspension travel like an offset balljoint or sliding balljoint UCA does.
Frequently incorrect caster and difficult (and very time consuming) camber adjustment, or dented shock towers and eventually bent knuckles from UCA contact. Not an easy choice to make, and just another reason most intelligent people will say "Lower it and don't worry about the camber, its fine".
The only real issue I had was that it is darn near impossible for the alignment tech to keep the caster correct while adjusting. Since each of the 2 anchors on each wheel can be adjusted separately, any difference between them causes incorrect caster settings. Additionally, the full published range of adjustment is not possible without using a large hammer to reshape the shock tower (the UCA itself hits if you adjust more negative).
The benefit of them is that they don't destroy the available suspension travel like an offset balljoint or sliding balljoint UCA does.
Frequently incorrect caster and difficult (and very time consuming) camber adjustment, or dented shock towers and eventually bent knuckles from UCA contact. Not an easy choice to make, and just another reason most intelligent people will say "Lower it and don't worry about the camber, its fine".
I did have those UCA's from Skunk2 and it hits my towers, so I sold them and got the Ingalls AAB's and it doesn't hit the towers.
haha yeah iam starting to grow on that saying.
Im only considering getting this ingalls kit is because if been offered a good deal
£60 front front and rear, think thats about $100
Im only considering getting this ingalls kit is because if been offered a good deal

£60 front front and rear, think thats about $100
I had H&R Sports on a DA Integra. Granted I didn't NEED them, but I wanted them, cause I was planning on AutoXing... That is before it was took from me. 
The drop was around 1.8.

The drop was around 1.8.
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Is that a set? If it is, that's a good deal, if your talking in francs. Make sure you get a good alignment as well, 4 wheel alignment that is!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,938
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Hated them. Seriously hated them.
The only real issue I had was that it is darn near impossible for the alignment tech to keep the caster correct while adjusting. Since each of the 2 anchors on each wheel can be adjusted separately, any difference between them causes incorrect caster settings. Additionally, the full published range of adjustment is not possible without using a large hammer to reshape the shock tower (the UCA itself hits if you adjust more negative).
The benefit of them is that they don't destroy the available suspension travel like an offset balljoint or sliding balljoint UCA does.
Frequently incorrect caster and difficult (and very time consuming) camber adjustment, or dented shock towers and eventually bent knuckles from UCA contact. Not an easy choice to make, and just another reason most intelligent people will say "Lower it and don't worry about the camber, its fine".
The only real issue I had was that it is darn near impossible for the alignment tech to keep the caster correct while adjusting. Since each of the 2 anchors on each wheel can be adjusted separately, any difference between them causes incorrect caster settings. Additionally, the full published range of adjustment is not possible without using a large hammer to reshape the shock tower (the UCA itself hits if you adjust more negative).
The benefit of them is that they don't destroy the available suspension travel like an offset balljoint or sliding balljoint UCA does.
Frequently incorrect caster and difficult (and very time consuming) camber adjustment, or dented shock towers and eventually bent knuckles from UCA contact. Not an easy choice to make, and just another reason most intelligent people will say "Lower it and don't worry about the camber, its fine".
OP: just skip that camber kit crap. If you get it aligned to get your toe back to factory specs, you'll be fine.
Not to mention, the kit you linked does not fit 96-00 Civics. I'm not even sure if I've seen that style of camber kit for 96-00 Civics, where the upper control arms bolt directly to the sides of the shock towers, instead of with special bolts through the tops of the towers like 92-95 Civics.
Actually, those adjusters can cause clearance problems if it pushes the upper arm out too much. Then the upper arm will contact the welded seam on the frame rail. That's pretty bad, too, because my car with stock springs and Koni shocks on the lower perches have the UCA sitting above the frame rail seam already.
So you were adding negative camber for AutoX, right? Because if not, you were hurting the car's handling abilities.
OP: just skip that camber kit crap. If you get it aligned to get your toe back to factory specs, you'll be fine.
Not to mention, the kit you linked does not fit 96-00 Civics. I'm not even sure if I've seen that style of camber kit for 96-00 Civics, where the upper control arms bolt directly to the sides of the shock towers, instead of with special bolts through the tops of the towers like 92-95 Civics.
So you were adding negative camber for AutoX, right? Because if not, you were hurting the car's handling abilities.
OP: just skip that camber kit crap. If you get it aligned to get your toe back to factory specs, you'll be fine.
Not to mention, the kit you linked does not fit 96-00 Civics. I'm not even sure if I've seen that style of camber kit for 96-00 Civics, where the upper control arms bolt directly to the sides of the shock towers, instead of with special bolts through the tops of the towers like 92-95 Civics.
I'm going to wait to see what happens this my new suspension setup before I decide on any camber kits. I will probably just save the money and invest it in some sticky icky icky tires. Then go and "Crash the Cones".
Absolute garbage - run away.
My urethane ones squeeked, the urethane failed in a couple months, and they created more problems than they solved due to the geometry. Oh yeah, they also banged the factory balljoint out of the control arm because the arms get pushed out and hit parts of the car's chassis (body).
If you have some odd problem where you need to adjust front camber, run the ones that adjust at the balljoint. I don't care for aftermarket front upper camber arms because they create more problems than they solve - they slip, have crappy quality balljoints that fail, or just plain don't fit. Run the factory units...
For the rears: https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/its-never-easy-hardrace-suspension-bushing-install-notes-2579762/
My urethane ones squeeked, the urethane failed in a couple months, and they created more problems than they solved due to the geometry. Oh yeah, they also banged the factory balljoint out of the control arm because the arms get pushed out and hit parts of the car's chassis (body).
If you have some odd problem where you need to adjust front camber, run the ones that adjust at the balljoint. I don't care for aftermarket front upper camber arms because they create more problems than they solve - they slip, have crappy quality balljoints that fail, or just plain don't fit. Run the factory units...
For the rears: https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/its-never-easy-hardrace-suspension-bushing-install-notes-2579762/
Absolute garbage - run away.
My urethane ones squeeked, the urethane failed in a couple months, and they created more problems than they solved due to the geometry. Oh yeah, they also banged the factory balljoint out of the control arm because the arms get pushed out and hit parts of the car's chassis (body).
If you have some odd problem where you need to adjust front camber, run the ones that adjust at the balljoint. I don't care for aftermarket front upper camber arms because they create more problems than they solve - they slip, have crappy quality balljoints that fail, or just plain don't fit. Run the factory units...
For the rears: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2579762
My urethane ones squeeked, the urethane failed in a couple months, and they created more problems than they solved due to the geometry. Oh yeah, they also banged the factory balljoint out of the control arm because the arms get pushed out and hit parts of the car's chassis (body).
If you have some odd problem where you need to adjust front camber, run the ones that adjust at the balljoint. I don't care for aftermarket front upper camber arms because they create more problems than they solve - they slip, have crappy quality balljoints that fail, or just plain don't fit. Run the factory units...
For the rears: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2579762
Cheers Tweak, a good write up there.
I only considered getting adjustable camber arms because a friend is offering them to me cheap and i thought it would be a good opportunity to maintain a more even tyre wear, from the sounds of it there not worth the hassle. I guess i'll just have to do it the old fashioned way. Rotate the wheels and use a harder compound tyre
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,938
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Cheers Tweak, a good write up there.
I only considered getting adjustable camber arms because a friend is offering them to me cheap and i thought it would be a good opportunity to maintain a more even tyre wear, from the sounds of it there not worth the hassle. I guess i'll just have to do it the old fashioned way. Rotate the wheels and use a harder compound tyre
I only considered getting adjustable camber arms because a friend is offering them to me cheap and i thought it would be a good opportunity to maintain a more even tyre wear, from the sounds of it there not worth the hassle. I guess i'll just have to do it the old fashioned way. Rotate the wheels and use a harder compound tyre

Hopefully its done the job What summer tyres do you use mate? 30K is impressive.
I think ill let my buddy sell them to someone else.
Cheers for the help guys, much appreciated
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,938
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I have gone through 3 sets of Yokohama AVS ES100's (2 sets on stock wheels and 1 set on my 16's) and I'm currently on Kumho Ecsta SPT 205/45-16 which I've had for about 2 years now.
Yeah? Never tried Falken. Only used the Goodyear Eagle F1's and currenctly on Michielin Pilot SX. Both very good tyres but i have to say im quite impressed by the Michielins
These camber kits are junk. I'd stay away. Put them on a DA, tried to get the shop to dial the camber in, absolutely no go, pain in the a$$. All it did was made things worse.
Best solution, don't lower your car so much. Some negative camber can be good, so long as the toe settings are within specs, you will be fine.
Best solution, don't lower your car so much. Some negative camber can be good, so long as the toe settings are within specs, you will be fine.
I have the Ingalls balljoint camber kit and have had zero problem with them.
I have had 3 alignments and no shop has had any problem adjusting them. Cost me $80 to get both sides installed and that was an amazing price! All the other shops wanted like $300.
BTW, Autozone has a tool made for Hondas to remove the balljoints from the control arms. Most places will tell you it is impossible and all that crap but its not.
Save your tires, get a camber kit. I lowered my car 2.5 inches and everyone said I didnt need one. I started seeing some tire wear after 2 alignments at different shops and I fixed the problem w/ the camber kit. Best use of money that saves money down the road!
I have had 3 alignments and no shop has had any problem adjusting them. Cost me $80 to get both sides installed and that was an amazing price! All the other shops wanted like $300.
BTW, Autozone has a tool made for Hondas to remove the balljoints from the control arms. Most places will tell you it is impossible and all that crap but its not.
Save your tires, get a camber kit. I lowered my car 2.5 inches and everyone said I didnt need one. I started seeing some tire wear after 2 alignments at different shops and I fixed the problem w/ the camber kit. Best use of money that saves money down the road!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,938
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Your tire wear was cured after the camber kit installation because they set the toe correctly, NOT because of the reduced negative camber.
This has been proven over and over by many people on here. Toe wears tires, NOT camber!






