So I'm for sure checking into getting an alarm also after having my truck broken into. Is this a decent one
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_514CG75...w&rvm=ShowAllt

Or should I expect to spend more?

Do you guys that have had break ins at when your vehicles have been at your house had any problems with them coming back later on to try to steal stuff again?

Also I plan to get both of the motion sensors they offer as options. What should I expect to pay to have this installed? I'm thinking I probably can do it but not sure I want to. I've installed keyless entry systems but it's hard to find a spot to tuck them where they don't make a mess. Not sure how much of that I want to do on here. Nor how many wires I want to check before I find the right ones to splice into. That's if it's not too bad to have it installed by a professional. If it's $500 I'd do it myself or attempt to.

Also one other questions is do you have to pull the door panels for a alarm install? I have my front two where several things that hold the clips broke off last time I pulled them for a speaker install and I have a feeling the rest will break if you pull it again. I'm afraid it wont have anything to hold them on so I hate to pull them if I don't have to. If I do I would though.

 

Good alarm, but the best alarm is a "stealth" install and kill switches. See "Car alarm guide and how to pick out a Security system to meet your needs!-OPEN!" on the FAQ's and "Cause for Alarm, stealth install" to give you an idea: http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com...on7/index.html

 

Crutchfield to my knowledge tries not to sell crap. I have no expierence with the brand but djkurious is correct on adding kill switches. If you know what you are doing I'd say go for it but don't do what my previous onwer did and try just to epicly fail. Good luck with your install.

 

I have a friend that has had a CrimeGuard 745i since 1998 on an Integra and it's still running strong. That was my first alarm install

 

So should I install it myself or can most shops do a "stealth" install? What should I ask for them to do to make it stealth? I have faith I can do it but honestly, I really just don't want to.

Is it even worth having an alarm? I talked to a friend who works in the police industry and he said thieves seem to like alarms as they just disable them and that you are expecting to hear something since you have an alarm so when you don't hear anything you don't think anything is up. He talked like they are no problem for thieves to just disable them. I know I've heard this before too but I figure it's at least a chance it will stop them where as if you don't have it it's no chance. Then on the other hand I don't want to spend a ton of money and then not have it do any good either.

What can I have done or do if I decide to do it myself to make it harder to disable?

I really just don't have the time to mess with it myself that's why I'm wondering what a decent install should cost.

 

A "full on" stealth install is not cheap, it will require a dash pull.
A "semi" stealth install, ["basic", starter kill, door locks hood and trunk/hatch trigger] will be 5-8 hours, we charge $80 hr for full on and semi stealth installs.

Basic install, [includes same as above] 4 hr @ $40 hr, [all soldered connections].

Anybody charging you less is A- not doing a proper job, B- giving you a good deal, [if it still takes 4 hr] C- wants to meet your good looking, single, sister.

Unless you can find an installer you trust and is willing to give you a deal then I would recommend you do it yourself, a semi stealth install is not that hard, just time consuming, [if your going to do it right]. 94

 

What makes a stealth install stealth? I mean are you just mounting the brain behind the dash or what actually makes it stealth? Is there a DIY on a self install anywhere? I don't mind so much pulling the dash or any of that as I've done it before and it's not a ton to it. What I don't want to do is finding which wires I need out of the 100's of wires in a harness. That's what made the keyless entry install a pita. I also don't have a ton of free time to work on something like that anymore either. That's why I was hoping to pay someone but I honestly don't think it's worth $1000 for a alarm and install and at $500 I'm not sure I think it's worth it as honestly everyone I've talked to just about will tell you how easy it is for thieves to disable the alarms.

I think you are right and that I should just do it myself. However, I'm just wondering the effectiveness of an alarm and if I really need one. Have you guys with them ever had them prevent anything from being stolen from your vehicle or from having your vehicle stolen?

 

Stealth install has everything hiding in unknown locations of the car. Check out cause for alarm as mentioned in my earlier post. It will explain "Stealth" and why someone would do a stealth install

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607P902...607P902&tp=149

What about that one? That or the Crime Guard are the two main ones I'm considering. Out of those two which is better?

Also how does this tie into my factory keyless entry? Can I still use my factory keyless entry? The Crime Guard Keyless entry I had in the past I hated. It didn't reach as far as a OEM one and it also made you hit the buttons twice to unlock all doors which I didn't like. Just things like that. Will this one do that too or will it use my factory keyless entry?

 

So one more question. I understand how that a stealth alarm is basically just it all being hidden. However, if they can get into the car without it going off what good does it being hidden do? Shouldn't it go off when they touch the car? I don't understand what it being super hidden does.

 

Good alarm systems are made by directed electronics, viper, python, clifford. They all have shock sensors that will sense impact. It will chirp if a basketball hits your car. It will also set off the alarm if someone hits the car hard. Also it will go off if a door is opened, or hood opened. The top of the line alarms will show you on the remote what is making the alarm go off. Like a door open.

Don't waste your time with some half *** alarm. Directed make a complete line of alarms and accessories. So if you want to you can add options to your alarm.

Also think about when you lose your remote or break it. Where are you going to get a new one??? Directed electronics has a guide to help you find a new remote. Try finding a new crimemaster remote in a few years when the company goes under!

Find an installer that has been installing for 5+ years and get an alarm that's around $300 without labor.

 

So is the Python posted in the link any good? I don't mind spending the extra for it but it has no reviews on Crutchfield so wasn't sure about it. Honestly though, I'm not going to spend $1000 or more on a alarm when just about everyone I've talked to says they just flat out don't work. People in the police force say thieves know how to disable them. People that have had them I keep reading stories about how they got their car stolen and the alarm never went off. I read of a few where it went off and the owner heard it and stopped the car from being stolen. However, most of the stories I've read they haven't gone off. How do they get to a wire to disable it without setting it off by touching the car?

When I have that many people telling me they don't work I just can't see putting that much money into it. On the other hand I figure if I have one at least it has a chance at working and would probably deter some kid trying to mess with my vehicle. I realize if a pro thief wants it he is still going to get it.

 

Did you read the sticky that I worked so hard on ........ Just kidding. The reason police say alarms do not work is most cars are stolen with alarm systems. Why? Because most people do not know their alarm system was never installed in the car correctly. Most people go to swapmeets and stores like best buys and other and places and the store does not show you everything needed to make the system work correctly or carry the products too. Most people also cheap out on the security department when they see how much a real system is going to cost. And they feel that a cheaper system will do. A cheaper will work too if all the extra sensors are added like a dei 520t back up battery is added to the install and the labor on the install is done right and not just thrown under the dash. Extra like a hidden main siren and a siren in the car can work wonders.

Also kill switches are important too! Most shops just put a relay on the starter wire right next to the steering colume. What is that really going to do. Not a dam thing when a theif just unplugs it and jumps the two wire toghter. You need to find diffrent parts of the car to kill. Most shops are not going to do this because it takes more time, They need it to be able to be fixed at there other locations or they do not have the knowledge to do it. Biggest one is that they do not want to take the time because it will cost them money.

What kind of truck do you have. You have alot of great post in this thread!

 

In order to beat a thief at his game, you have to think like a thief and better! If I was a thief and I was breaking and stealing cars, I would already have this assumptions in my head on what to do:

1. Thief opens door, car alarm goes off, look under dash and steering column for brain, pull it down cut all wires, hotwire car, drive off.

2. Car alarm goes off, pop hood, see siren, clip wires on siren, alarm is silent, go back in car, kill alarm like above or pull starter relay from steering column, hot wire car, drive off.

To beat the thief, you would do a stealth install with kill switches. Here is how it goes:

1. Thief opens door, alarm goes off, reaches under dash or steering column, alarm not there! Pop hood and look for siren, can't find siren, undo positive cable while interior and exterior siren is going off at same time, alarm still going off and siren's still being a bi*&^, move on to next target. Overall car is still there in the morning.

2. Thief opens door, alarm goes off, tries to hot wire car, car won't start b/c of a ignition kill, starter kill, ecu kill, etc. kills. thief moves on to different more easier target.

3. Thief opens door, alarm goes off, pops hood, disables siren b/c he is an expert. Goes under dash or steering column, alarm not there, but he can here a ticking from the flashing light relay. Finds alarm disables alarm. Tries to start car, but not starting because of a hidden ignition kill switch not tied to alarm. He has time to look for it and finds it, disables it. Tries to start car again, starts but then cuts off after 2 seconds because owner also has a fuel pump kill. Not worth the looking again for another kill switch and thief leaves to a more easier target.

As you see #3 has multiple layers, so if one point of kill fails, he still has 2 more to go, but he doesn't know that.

This is why a "stealth" install is beneficial.

Hope this helps

Also, I have good response from CrimeGuard alarms and when my best friend broke his remote, he called Crutchfield and they sent him another one via next day mail for a small fee. Also CrimeGuard is made by Omega research (remember them?). I'm not recommending CrimeGuard or any alarm system, just speaking from experience. I have a Autopage RF315! Go figure...

 

I don't remember Omega Research. The only time I've ever heard of them is because I bought a keyless entry from them. Is Omega Research a good or bad thing?

This alarm is going in a 01 Dodge Ram. Seems like a stealth install with a fuel pump kill switch and ignition kill switch is what I want. How in the world do you find the wires you need to tap into easily? I know when I did a keyless entry I had 100 or more wires and had to find the ones I needed in that harness. The only reason I know which ones went where is from tracing them to the locks. However, on some of this stuff it would be really hard to get to.

Also Where do I mount all the sensors? On a truck like this where would be the best way to mount the siren?

I'm just not sure I want to tackle all this by myself but I honestly don't know of a good shop to install it for me so it seems like doing it myself is the best way. How do I tie it into the factory keyless entry also?

That sticky has some good info. I'm reading it now. I just somehow didn't even see it. I guess I just ignore stickies.

So anyway, this is the alarm I'm considering and the 2 add ons.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_514CG75...i5.html?tp=149


Then this sensor
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_514AU46...or.html?tp=153

Then also this one
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_514AU94...4T.html?tp=153


Is that all I will need or will I need other stuff to install it and have a decent install?

 

The other one I'm considering is this one
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607P902...02.html?tp=149

With these sensors
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607508D...or.html?tp=153
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607506T...6T.html?tp=153
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607507M...or.html?tp=153

Then do I need this?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607515R...en.html?tp=155

It's more than I want to spend but if it's worth the extra I'd pay it since I plan to install it myself now.

Which of those two is the better option? Is the Python that much better? It sure does cost a lot more.

 

One other question. Will these companies honor the lifetime warranty still if I install it myself or does a dealer have to install it for them to honor that?

 

The problem with install prices, they will usually be more if you bring your own unit in - if they will even install it. Places like BB will generally do a quick & dirty install, which is very ineffective. I was looking at what individuals charge (to see what I saved DIY'ing), and it was ~$250-300 for stealth labor alone.

As for the alarm, the honest truth is a $29 radioshack unit can protect better than a 2-way Viper system with a 1-mile range & all the sensors - if it's installed right. Mine was installed in the armored 'bucket' that the steering column attaches to, right under the cluster. Even if they do get the right wires, they still have to pull the dash off to get to my backup battery wires, let alone the main relay (relocated) & manual kills.

The audio sensor is a little redundant, since the prox sensor will go off once they reach or jump inside your car. That Python is a decent alarm, and it should come with that same siren. I'd suggest the piezo 'noise generator' siren too, it goes in the interior and drives thieves nuts. The price is kinda high, you should shop around. I actually got a similar 2-way system from DEI, the Avital 4400, for $120 on ebay. Brand-new, has the range & functionality of my friend's system - if its fake, it must have been made with the same parts. The cool thing is the backup 1-way remote glows in the dark.

 

How important is this sensor?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607508D...or.html?tp=153

Is it something I really want to have?

 

Omega Research makes Crime Guard, Excalibur, K-9, Freedom, Omega, Executive and ModelOne. The only one I remember from back-in-the-day is Crime Guard, Excalibur, K-9, Freedom.

Those sensors are all good.

Wiring: 12volts red and pink/black + ignition harness
Starter yellow + ignition harness
Ignition dk. blue + ignition harness
Power Lock orange/purple 5wi driver door harness
Notes: Keyless models use positive trigger for lock, and 5-wire for unlock. Can also find wires at the central timer module to the right side of the steering column, lock is orange/green, unlock is pink/green.
Power Unlock pink/purple 5wi driver door harness
Notes: Keyless models use positive trigger for lock, and 5-wire for unlock. Can also find wires at the central timer module to the right side of the steering column, lock is orange/green, unlock is pink/green.
Lock Motor orange/black driver door harness
Unlock Motor pink/black driver door harness
Parking Lights+ black/yellow headlight switch
Parking Lights-
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Door Trigger yellow - headlight switch or DKP
Notes: To avoid dome delay, use tan for the drivers door and black/lt. blue for the passenger door. Both wires are located at the central timer module to the right side of the steering column. Use both wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision use door trigger
Trunk/Hatch Release
Power Sliding Door
Factory Alarm Arm lt. green/orange - driver door harness
Notes: Arm is negative trigger thru a 644 ohm resistor. Disarm is negative trigger through a 1.5K (1500) ohm resistor. MUST use relays.
Factory Alarm Disarm same wire
Disarm No Unlock
Horn Trigger black/red - steering column
Memory Seat 1
Memory Seat 2
Memory Seat 3
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
No Type:
N/A
Part #: N/A
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available

 

You will get no manufacturers warranty at all unless you buy alarm from an authorized dealer, the only way to get lifetime warranty is have it installed at an authorized dealer, if you install it yourself, [buy from an authorized dealer] you will get a 1 year warranty.

http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpag...7261&MakeID=16 94

 

Ok that's what I wondered. Thanks. I plan to buy it from a authorized dealer but when I talked to that dealer about an install they didn't even know what a stealth install was. So after a lot of thinking if I get one I want to be the one to install it.

 

You need to go to a higher end shop. Your best bet is to do it yourself. Its really not that hard. Just time consuming. Do you have tools like a dvm and a pannel popper, solder gun and a basic tool kit?

 

What's a DVM? Is that a multi meter? If so I have one and I have a soldering iron as well as the tool to pull panels. I also have quite a few tools. I'm not new to stereo installs or stereo wiring at all. As said I've installed keyless entries before just never a full on alarm. It's not that I don't think I can do it it's just that I don't have a ton of free time. I'm more dreading just finding the wires I need. I think that will be the hardest part. I've pulled the dash before and it's not a big deal to me anyway.

 

Don't worry about the wiring, it's not that hard to find in a Dodge PU, and you can confirm wiring, [as you should] with the meter.

Finding the wiring and testing it and taking notes can be done one day so when you do the dash pull you already know what wires you need and all you need to do is trace them to another location, EG; connecting the alarms constant power, ign. power and possible starter cut relay at the ign. switch harness is not stealth, but knowing the starter lead is yellow once the dash is pulled will allow you to trace the yellow lead to a less conspicuous location and install the relay there, or do what I do, de -pin the yellow, carefully "open" the terminal to remove it from the lead, solder a length of the same gauge yellow lead to the yellow starter lead and at some point down the line pull the yellow starter lead out of the harness, pulling the "new" yellow lead into the harness, re-terminate, [crimp and solder] the terminal to the "new" yellow lead a d re-pin it into the ign. switch plug, cut the soldered yellow leads apart and install the relay in a remote location, this eliminates any connections to extend the starter lead and the ign. switch harness looks dead stock. 94