looking to start doing my own alignment . just want to see what tools you guys are use for your set up, i was thinking about using this

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=1299&catid=5
for camber

and this for toe
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=1299&catid=5

now i dont mind spending the money on it cause it will get used me and 2 other buddys are going in on it so if we spend 200-250 each we should be able to get some good stuff thanks for the help

 

I mount laser pointers to the wheels for toe

 

if u do that then u can only get it set to 0 right . i dont want some cheapo way, i dont mind spending the money on good tools. i have 15000 in snapon id like the right tool for the job. so i can do it as quick and easy as possible. u know

 

There are threads on this that explain the process further.

I use 4 jackstands, string, a handful of 1/8" vinyl flooring, a Husky (Sears is fine) leveler, a bucket of water with 1/4" clear tubing, measuring tape, and a steel right angle ruler.

Apparently the laser levelers can be off by quite a wide margin, so I don't use any laser feature.

 

so you say the tools above are junk

 

how long does a 4 wheel set up take u

 

The way I do it, it is accurate to about 0.05 degree, and you can set any toe angle you want. Unfortunately, it is very inexpensive and not that fast, so it doesn't fit your requirements.

 

Why not just buy the snap on alignment machine its not cheapo

http://www.snaponequipment.com/johnbean/wa.asp

 

I'm not a shop don't have that much money for the snap on unit. I don't really care of it cost 5 bucks or 500 I just want to be able to set toe and camber on my cars for track and autox. Use. And want to do it as quick as possable. I want be able to play with my setups

 

You have the same link for both items,but i'm assuming for toe you meant to link to the Longacre sliding pointer type tool?If so,I have this tool,and it's decent,but I wouldn't buy it again.For a relatively budget setup,the camber gauge similar to what you linked to that has the toe attachments would be the way i'd go since you could attach one set of tools to the wheels and measure everything without having to chnage tools.
Chris

 

Thank u sir

 

I have a similar setup. I have a jig that attaches to the front and rear of the car which i then connect string too. Then i have basically all the stuff you list above and take my time. Comes out perfect everytime.

I would like to get some alignment plates since using vinyl flooring is sorta a pain in the butt - but $2 vs $500....

 

Okay I give up.. vinyl flooring + water = toe plates... but bucket and tubing????

 

Someone suggested to me a trash bag with soapy water in it for toe plates.

<--- Also lost on the tubing + water.

 

lmao

You use the tubing and water bucket to measure how level your floor is - you need to do this for camber.

There are Youtube clips in this post that explain the process: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ght=diy+camber

Read through that stuff - if anything is still not making sense, I'll try to explain.

'99 Integra Gs-R
I use factory upper control arms and toe links (aftermarket arms either have poor quality balljoints, slip, or if they're like the Ingalls, ruin your control arms by beating them into the chassis). The car is settled at -2.5 degrees camber up front (make sure you torque everything on the ground or, if the car is on jackstands, jack up each hub so that it is at ride height when you torque all the bushings down).

On the rear, I use adjustable Hardrace upper control arms (camber adjustment) and toe links (since the rear chassis toe point turns to rust and is a liability for adjustment long term - just use the adjustable toe link instead). The adjustable arm threads are all coated in antiseize and have a light amount of paint on any exposed surfaces to avoid rust on the cheap metal they use.

I like Liam's use of a bar (can use 10ft conduit from Home Depot) for setting up the car, but I just use 4 jackstands and make sure to account for the smaller hub distance in the rear since I couldn't get 10ft conduit home in the small trunk!

 

You know.. they will cut that for you!!

 

lol, I know, but then you have to deal with cutting it into two equal sections, threading the middle, and then couple it back together so it's exactly the same width again at the track. I'll just use my crappy jackstands and string.

 

<-----uses string, a tape measure and jack stands.

 

I use toe plates (btw, trash bags+soap/floor tiles+grease whatever are called 'turn plates') and a camber gauge. You just gotta be careful that the tire/wheel setup you're measuring against is bent or uneven.

 

Toe plates vs. turn plates? Am I retarded, and toe plates show some degree/measurement of change in angle/distance?

 

yea easily confused.

toe plates you put on the face of the wheel to get a pickup point for measurement
turn plates you put under the tire to reduce friction while making adjustments
tuna plates is what i ate for lunch today at the sushi place

 

that video is pretty neat. ill have to try this out sometime.

 

Per the video, I use two 1/8" vinyl flooring sheets under each wheel with a little table salt in the middle. I also jump on the car and rock it around like an lunatic (this is optional but does add a level of excitement to the process).

For toe - measure from the outer part of the wheel ("rim") and not the tire since I feel the wheel is going to be more true...note, this doesn't work if you have bent wheels.

 

I use a Sam Rothschild (www.rothfab.com) car mounted string setup (similar to Smart Strings) and there is a picture of it on a NSX and me sitting on my *** (but I'm working of course) in the July, 2009 Modified Magazine sidebar "Going Faster For Free" on page 92.

 

It does work if you roll the car forwards by half a wheel rotation and measure again