I just had my Hytech Rep. installed yesterday and i love it. The difference can be felt, it feels real nice and pulls surprisingly, a lot harder. I have the Aem V2 intake and a Greddy exhaust system installed also. What should be my next step in mods? Im thinking vafc but maybe something else would be better first ?

 

if you are going to tune, go with something better than the vafc... find what your local tuner likes the most and go with it... from there maybe the euro-r and/or s2p1 cams with a built head. Do some research in the FAQ section

 

A VAFC is just fine if you're on a budget......I made 196whp tuned on a VAFC with S2S1 cams. I even tried to tune my JUN setup with it, didn't work.....Needed to address timing.
What is the Emissions story in MASS? In IL OBD2 guys are stuck with VAFC because OBD1 swaps ARE NOT an option......
You can usually bet someone that tells you NOT to use a VAFC has no experience with them....
I have witnessed double digit mid range gains by tuning i/h/e setups and 5-10whp PEAK.
Also be wary of someone that tells you to use TypeS/EuroR cams......they usually don't know what they are talking about.

Now, if you can do the OBD1 thing......Possibly look into eCtune/Hondata/NepTune and a P28/P72 type ECU with a Boomslang OBD2-OBD1 harness......You can go wrong with Hondata S300 though. I don't have experience with NepTune or eCtune, but my tuner loves eCtune. Im just NOT a fan of the whole CHIP BURNING thing.


Now I also have to ask, what have you done as far as suspension and tires? HorsePower for the TURNS man!

 

I personally have used the VAFC and now use Crome and am MUCH happier, but again it comes down to preference and tuner- by Euro R I was reffering to Euro R intake manifold (that was rather unclear) I love being told how incompetent I am via post on honda-tech... haha NirVTEC I apologize for trying to help answer his question as it seems to offend you greatly.

- he is def right though on finding out about the emissions stuff AND on the tires/suspension upgrades

 

I am NOT telling you you're incompetent......I think it was a pretty generalized statement.
Why are you much happier with CROME? Care to elaborate? Did you gain a few hp/tq? Smoother powerband? Due tell.........and Im NOT saying you're wrong.
We tuned my friends i/h/e H22 with hondata S200 several years ago and after 2hrs and more dyno pulls than I can imagine, we picked up 3whp/0tq. Seemed like a waste of time considering how it performed with the VAFC.
BTW: I am NOT an edvocate of CROME.......you'll notice a lot of old CROME users are switching to eCtune on a budget......

And it didn't offend me.....I don't take anything personal in cyberspace!
I just like people to learn from my success and experience......And will always counter info that I don't agree with based on personal experience. I was making 20-25whp and 20wtq more than any i/h/e H22 that jumped on my old dyno......and that was simply S2S1 cams and a slightly nicer header+great tuning @ the time.

 

Need more info:

SH or base?
How many miles?
How long since you did Tbelt/Clutch?
Current suspension setup?

 

I am not a tuner therefore I am basing my opinion on end result (my happiness while driving) I just had a lot of problems with my VAFC along with the tuner doing it therefore my conclusion would be that it is an inferior product, not to mention I have read other people talking about the inadequacies of the VAFC comparatively... those are some nice numbers though off the dyno. Is the guy who posted this even reading any of this?

 

Well i know a lot of people that mod their Hondas where I live, problem is there is almost nobody that tunes cars. Its really hard to find a tuner around these areas and i'm trying to find something that is easy to work with. I figured the VAFC would be an easy route. As far as the setup, suspension is stock and im stuck with all season tires(needed tires that day because of bad snow and late for work) on RSX wheels. Clutch was done at 73k and car currently has 84k miles. It is a base model. I was considering the Euro-R but i've heard good gains with the skunk2 matched with a 70mm throttle body. Sorry if anything i say is nooblike, as im still new to this scene and love learning. My goal is run low 14's at the local track but im not trying to spend more than an addition $2k.

 

LSD & tune; suspension & tires

 

suspension, tires, bolt-ons, exhaust, then tune.

 

I was actually hoping for mods that would increase horsepower, but I guess suspension plays a big role in reducing quarter mile times i suppose.

 

Try reducing your weight of your vehicle. I think preludes are heavy...

 

BTW Kron, i see you run a similiar setup, what does your lude run in the 1/4 ?

 

Yeah Preludes are tanks, im getting a CF hood within the next 2 months but i meant stuff engine wise for mods.

 

I went when I first got the car. The mods at that time were Kumho tires, CAI with metal mesh filter, and 2¼" exhaust from cat back. I'd never been before and never tried to launch. I ran a 15.5@90mph.

I imagine now that I'd run closer to a 14.8@95mph.

 

Ahh it sounds about right, but whenever i hear 15.5 and up in preludes, it makes me cringeee! I love our cars but i hate what they run stock -_-.

 

toyota mr2s are heavy. Same curb weight as my prelude pretty much except its only a 2 seater with no roof really (t- roof)

 

15.5@ 90? wow son, get that 60' down. My H23 ran 15.3 @ 89 mph.

 

They are def bigger and heavier than most other honda's, but I think they are the best looking car honda made (except the NSX) so I am willing to run a little slower for the looks... also don't rule out the bottle if you are just looking for some zoom zoom down the track then a DD otherwise. I personally FELT some gains with the velocity stack (not sure if its legit or just the butt dyno) but that could but an additional option for you for a minimal fee...

 

Cheap OBD1 tuning options have sort of made VAFCs a little outdated unless you're really pinching pennies.

Get a high flow cat if you haven't already, and tune it? Internal engine mods get a little crazy so don't feel like you have to make the step.

 

a turbo

 

Prelude=2.2L/2900lbs
Integra=1.8L/2650lbs
CivicSi(pre-K)1.6L/2700lbs

Whos car is really comparatively heavy? This is the arguement I have had for years......
"Your Prelude is heavy/a tank!" Your car has no Torque or usuable powerband!!....../done

Tuning is your friend if you're looking for a 1/4m Zipper......Next I would look into some sort of S2 Cams. You may even want to try Cam gears, but IIRC there are issues with the exhaust gear on OBD2 dizzys.

Kronn 98SH: Thanks for reminding me.....I have been meaning to buy a BLITZ filter for years! It was worth 5whp on my friends ~100whp ITA EF Civic(d16a6) compared to the STD K&N.
*Adds to laundry list before E85 tune*

 

It seems to me that everyone agrees tuning would be the next best step and then some cams should come afterwards. The Vafc sounds like a good idea as emissions are tough in MA. But wouldn't it be a better idea to get cams first and tuning system afterwards so I wouldn't have to tune twice? Again, sorry if im noob, I just have a lot of questions. Thanks!

As for integras, those little ***** are pretty quick. I lost once to a GS-R and this is sorta a grudge build to get back at them. Mostly everyone whips civics tegs or rsx around here. No love for Ludes.

 

As always, it depends on your budget.......
Ideally, cams, VT, and tune......If you find S2S! cams, u can use the stock VT for now and upgrade later. I am 40k mi+ with S2S1s and Stock VT.
A GSR shouldn't beat a Prelude......not until it has Cams or more displacement.
DRIVER MOD?

I am a huge advocate of tuning.......and depending on your budget and taking OBD2 into consideration, there ARE other options.....But Im not sure how much better they will work with bolt-ons than a VAFC as I have little OBD2 experience.....Besides knowing I hate it after 8mo with an OBD2 Teg GSR......Damn Cel from 2nd O2!
I have never personally done more than a VAFC with OBD2 and we DID see great results for the $$$ spent. $100 on ebay for a used VAFC and ~$100-150 to tune it......Should be done on the dyno after maybe 6-8 runs, if not, BAD TUNER and/or trying to milk you for $$$.
A lot of people don't realize that sometimes most of your power gained by i/h/e is negated by lack of tuning. It was regular to see an i/h/e H22 make 165whp untuned(vs 155-160 stock) and jump in the 170s with >10 passes.

 

There is a reason why our cars are referred to as "tuners" because unlike muscle cars we need maximum efficiency to gain that extra 10 hp because as a percentage it is a greater increase... I would highly recommend researching the VAFC and dedicating time to learning how to use it BEFORE investing time: if you are like me and seek immediate gratification and don't have a ton of free time then you NEED to find a tuner that can take care of this for you, then I suggest going with what THEY are comfortable with. NirVTEC makes some great points about VAFC and has had a lot of success with it, however he knows more about it than you and I therefore it is a valuable asset, for me it would be a waste of money due to ignorance... unless you have the money for cams now then tune it, save up for cams, then get it re-tuned (second tune is almost always cheaper). My buddy has a GSR and I kill it everytime! haha