I just recently swapped the B20 into my Integra, it's not wanting to start up. Fuel pump is priming, all cluster lights are coming up, and the only CEL/code I am throwing is the IAT. I'm sure the alternator is good, distributor is working, what could it be?

 

How are the plugs? Its very simple to miss and can be a big problem if they are shot to all hell.

 

i have spark, fuel and its not starting. plugs are fine. it cranks but doesn't start.

 

what year is your car? what all did you swap over from the b18?

 

It's a 94, so OBDI car. It had a B16 in it. I swapped over the alternator, OBD1 LS dizzy, injectors, fuel rail. I checked all my grounds, and everything looks good. It wants to start, but doesn't.

 

Any suggestions and help would be great! I'd like to get this car running by tomorrow.

 

you need an ls ecu.. and what intake manifold did you use. when i did my swap used everything from my b18b only b20b stuff used was the block and head. hope that helps any

 

I am using a chipped ECU with a tune for this motor. I am also using an LS Intake manifold OF COURSE, bc the B20 ones are too big to fit. I already know what is needed for the B20 SWAP, and to get it IN, because I have done all of that, and None of what you posted is giving input to my situation.

I NEED HELP getting my car STARTED.

 

Yo calm down man. Your posting for help here..not anyone else so don't get pissed off when people like spklsdb8 just runs a check by you to MAKE SURE everything is RIGHT.

He wasn't saying "well it doesn't appear you know what your doing so do you have the LS IM on there,etc"

He was asking a "SIMPLE QUESTION" and you acted like a 2 year old and took offense to it.

Backoff.

 

When he asked you what all you had switched over, you didn't say anything about the intake manifold. I was gonna assume the same thing he did. You didnt mention anything about the ecu. You came here for help man, so dont jump on someone that is trying to help when you didnt even give all the information that was needed.

 

someone call the waaaaaaaambulance

 

I'm sure you can figure this out EKris. Let's get back to the basics...

Essentially you need fuel, spark, compression....

1. Are your spark plugs wet with gasoline?
2. Do you see a blue spark on all 4 spark plugs? (pull out and re-attach to spark plug wires)
3. Re-check your compression. What do you have?
4. Does it sound like the cranking is slow?
5. Are your grounds okay?

I'm sure you've already checked all these but recheck once more and let us know what you find.

 

I didn't mean to come off piissed ive just had a tough time with this car so I apologize. I will recheck everything and let you know.

 

Did you replace timing belt water pump and all that stuff? Maybe the timing is off.

 

I understand that. All of us have had tough times with our Cars at one point or another. But jumping on someone that is trying to help you isn't the way to get answers. Thats all I am saying.

I agree to re-check the things TheWhopper mentioned and let us know the results. GL.

 

Changed the timing belt, and does not look like teeth or timing is off any. Water pump was replaced not too long ago before I got the motor.

Yes, I understand, that is why I gave my apologies. I quickly came on here after 100 attempts to get this running, and trying to figure out a problem, and after jumping on the guy to give me some input, I felt pretty bad. Anywho, I will recheck everything, and see what I can come up with.

My fuel pump doesn't prime now. It does when I unhook the ECU and re plug it back in. IDK why?

 

6. Have you checked and double checked the timing?


sorry, i missed where you said you checked it in your last post

 

Get a new distributor/cap/rotor/plugs all for $220 or less from Autozone and this is w/o returning your core. Try these parts and if it still won't start return the whole distributor but keep the plugs, you need it anyways. Are you sure you put your distributor in the correct way? Removed it and flip it 180 and stick it back in. This can also happen. I have a 95 Rs and my distributor gave out so I went and got a new one and it started right up. It was just churning but almost wants to turn over but just won't start. So give this a shot. GL.

 

You can't install the dizzy 180 degrees out. The two ears that mate with the end of the Cam are slightly different..it will only go one way which is the correct way.

And last I checked the autozones around here will not accept returns on electrical parts.

 

I may have installed the dizzy incorrectly, or it is loose. I noticed that when I loosend the bolts that old it, the dizzy rotated in an ugly fashion. It sort of flipped around and is not supposed to do that. I think it is installed into the cam incorrectly, so I am going to pull it back out and see what the deal is, hopefully it solves my problem.

 

did you check your firing order. real easy to miss it and it will definately create problems in the starting part. as far as your fuel pump not working unless you reset the ecu sounds like an overload issue on the fuel pump circuit itself. when it does this again see if you have fuel code of some type. ecu's are only controllers and cant deliver large amounts of current for a circuit and typically an over current will throw a light and cause the ecu to not allow that circuit to operate cause it will eventually damage the output of the ecu. so find the problem with the fuel pump before you have to eat a new ecu as well.

 

So I went out and fixed the distributor problem, and it ALMOST started. It sounded like a "bogging" type sound, and wanted to start, but did not. I swapped out to a different chip that I had laying around just to see if it would have any affect, but nothing. However, I am throwing a code 16 now, which is for Fuel Injectors. Would the swapping of the chips make it throw a code for Fuel Injectors?

 

Are you referring to a new distributor that they won't accept or the core charge?

 

I've searched the forum, a lot are referring that my main relay is going bad or is bad. I believe that's probably right because I've had issues with it before (starting problems) but never replaced it. The fuel pump will prime, then not prime, and I can't even check the codes. The CEL stays solid, and if I leave it on the ON position for awhile, then someimtes the pump will prime, and the CEL will flash and give me the codes that I am throwing.

 

I am saying here..if you go buy a new Dizzy at Autozone and/or Advanced Auto. And give them the core when you buy the new one..then get home and the car STILL won't start after you installed the new dizzy. And you take the NEW dizzy back..they won't take it.

When I worked at Honda years ago we were the sameway and had something to the effect "There are no refunds on any electrical items" printed in bold on our Invoices.

So when people came to the parts counter wanting something electrical to FIX there problem I always asked them if they were SURE that was it because once they give me there Credit Card or Cash..it was theres to keep.