I'm buying a s2000 soon!
Hello!
I am trying to sell my current vehicle (07 Vw GTI) to buy a s2000.
I'm looking to get around 14,500 for my car, so it looks like i am going to be getting an Ap1 s2k with around 60k miles on it.
Do you guys have any advise for a first time buyer of a s2000?
I have already test drove a s2000, and i am in love. But i am not sure what i should be specifically looking for. Anything will help, thanks!
I am trying to sell my current vehicle (07 Vw GTI) to buy a s2000.
I'm looking to get around 14,500 for my car, so it looks like i am going to be getting an Ap1 s2k with around 60k miles on it.
Do you guys have any advise for a first time buyer of a s2000?
I have already test drove a s2000, and i am in love. But i am not sure what i should be specifically looking for. Anything will help, thanks!
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why downgrade?
s2k has fewer seats, a pathetic excuse for a trunk, a flawed soft top design, and a/c that can't stand 100+ degree weather.
differentials break easily, if you're going to launch the car; you better not bog. there's this TCT noise that comes back every 10,000 miles, as well as the MAP sensor needing a whack sometimes.
lol
s2k has fewer seats, a pathetic excuse for a trunk, a flawed soft top design, and a/c that can't stand 100+ degree weather.
differentials break easily, if you're going to launch the car; you better not bog. there's this TCT noise that comes back every 10,000 miles, as well as the MAP sensor needing a whack sometimes.
lol
why downgrade?
s2k has fewer seats, a pathetic excuse for a trunk, a flawed soft top design, and a/c that can't stand 100+ degree weather.
differentials break easily, if you're going to launch the car; you better not bog. there's this TCT noise that comes back every 10,000 miles, as well as the MAP sensor needing a whack sometimes.
lol
s2k has fewer seats, a pathetic excuse for a trunk, a flawed soft top design, and a/c that can't stand 100+ degree weather.
differentials break easily, if you're going to launch the car; you better not bog. there's this TCT noise that comes back every 10,000 miles, as well as the MAP sensor needing a whack sometimes.
lol
My S2000 holds up in 100+ Degree weather... what are you talking about? Ive only put the top up twice in 100+F degree weather and it was because i just washed the car. (I live in arizona were always 100+F! lol)
But yeah the top sucks, they do wear, and the rear plastic fogs up, I think 2003 was a glass rear window? and i don't remember what year they upgraded the AC (i have a 2006).
Seen a lot of people wear their clutches quickly(its not a civic! People buy these to have fun on the weekend so they probably did.). So keep in mind that if the last driver was fairly aggressive you might need a new one after a short while. And it is expensive if you have someone do it for you I think honda charges 900 for labor alone (12 hour job according to the manual)
Good luck and enjoy! i test drove one about 2 years back and have been wanting one ever since, finally got in a financial position to get one and I have never been happier!
But yeah the top sucks, they do wear, and the rear plastic fogs up, I think 2003 was a glass rear window? and i don't remember what year they upgraded the AC (i have a 2006).
Seen a lot of people wear their clutches quickly(its not a civic! People buy these to have fun on the weekend so they probably did.). So keep in mind that if the last driver was fairly aggressive you might need a new one after a short while. And it is expensive if you have someone do it for you I think honda charges 900 for labor alone (12 hour job according to the manual)
Good luck and enjoy! i test drove one about 2 years back and have been wanting one ever since, finally got in a financial position to get one and I have never been happier!
My S2000 holds up in 100+ Degree weather... what are you talking about? Ive only put the top up twice in 100+F degree weather and it was because i just washed the car. (I live in arizona were always 100+F! lol)
But yeah the top sucks, they do wear, and the rear plastic fogs up, I think 2003 was a glass rear window? and i don't remember what year they upgraded the AC (i have a 2006).
Seen a lot of people wear their clutches quickly(its not a civic! People buy these to have fun on the weekend so they probably did.). So keep in mind that if the last driver was fairly aggressive you might need a new one after a short while. And it is expensive if you have someone do it for you I think honda charges 900 for labor alone (12 hour job according to the manual)
Good luck and enjoy! i test drove one about 2 years back and have been wanting one ever since, finally got in a financial position to get one and I have never been happier!
But yeah the top sucks, they do wear, and the rear plastic fogs up, I think 2003 was a glass rear window? and i don't remember what year they upgraded the AC (i have a 2006).
Seen a lot of people wear their clutches quickly(its not a civic! People buy these to have fun on the weekend so they probably did.). So keep in mind that if the last driver was fairly aggressive you might need a new one after a short while. And it is expensive if you have someone do it for you I think honda charges 900 for labor alone (12 hour job according to the manual)
Good luck and enjoy! i test drove one about 2 years back and have been wanting one ever since, finally got in a financial position to get one and I have never been happier!
. I wish i could get an ap2, but those are way out of my price range, haha.
Glass rear window started in 02. The weather here lately has been low to mid 90's with ridiulous humidity and I have to say my AC works great. My soft top is 7 years old and only has 2 small places that I patched myself and fixed. To everyone who says it has a weak rear diff and most everyone has broken or jacked up their rear diff are usually boosted people putting out double the rwhp the car was originally designed for (or they just abuse the crap out of it). If you put down that much rwhp on a car not originally designed to handle it then it goes without saying your gonna eff something up if youre not careful. Which is why people tend to replace or do whatever it is they do to strengthen it. Clutches are the same way. Im sure people will go through them quickly if they abuse the crap out of it but its not like Honda built stuff weak on this car on purpose. Im sure they put a little thought into so like I said earlier, if you drive it normally or even spiritedly and take the time to make sure you do whatever mods you want the right way theres no reason why this car shouldnt last for a long time....sorry for the long post....
I've had an AP1 and an AP2. I can tell you that you should get an AP2. It is well worth the few thousand extra. If you absolutely cannot afford it then get the AP1 because it is still worth it. Make sure that you do not get an 00-01 because of the plastic back window. If you have any questions I would be willing to answer them for you. And don't listen to the person that said you are downgrading because this is an awesome car.
So i was wondering,
on the other forum they told me
15k could get me an ap1 with <30k miles or an ap2 with <50k miles.
How true is this? All i can find it ap1's with 60k miles for 15k around here.
on the other forum they told me
15k could get me an ap1 with <30k miles or an ap2 with <50k miles.
How true is this? All i can find it ap1's with 60k miles for 15k around here.
AP1's with <30k are kinda hard to come buy due to the fact that the last MY for the AP1 was 2003. I found mine with only 36 or 37k on it. but it only had one previous owner who didn't drive it on a daily basis
Check Auto Trader in yer area. I think that 50k on a ap2 wil still be over $15k though
Friend and I both picked up an 2001 AP1 for ~12K Both had ~55Kmi. Our tops were fading though. Replacement with glass back is $600-800 hardware alone.
when looking for one, check the Vins on fr/rr bumpers, fenders, hood, trunk, rear quarter panels, and doors. Do a search for ap1 vs ap2 comparison to check out the diff between yr models. Early Ap1s have the clutch buzz noise and Ap2s have a CDV(clutch delay valve) which can be removed. Test drive both. u may be able to get an Ap2 for ~15K depending on condition. Ext/Int color combinations will affect price. GPWhite seem to be highest in demand. Good luck! U wont regret it
when looking for one, check the Vins on fr/rr bumpers, fenders, hood, trunk, rear quarter panels, and doors. Do a search for ap1 vs ap2 comparison to check out the diff between yr models. Early Ap1s have the clutch buzz noise and Ap2s have a CDV(clutch delay valve) which can be removed. Test drive both. u may be able to get an Ap2 for ~15K depending on condition. Ext/Int color combinations will affect price. GPWhite seem to be highest in demand. Good luck! U wont regret it
id reccomend driving the AP1 and the AP2 and then deciding ifi you HAVE to have the AP2 or not.
plastic rear window is no biggie as long as its not trashed. you can buy that plastic cleaner and clean it up pretty easily. either way, its a used convertable so if you have never had experience with a convertable before, make sure you check the top for leaks and the trunk for leaks and rust.
im in a similiar situation, since i own a MINI S and just bought the s2k as a fun car. i ended up getting an AP1.
plastic rear window is no biggie as long as its not trashed. you can buy that plastic cleaner and clean it up pretty easily. either way, its a used convertable so if you have never had experience with a convertable before, make sure you check the top for leaks and the trunk for leaks and rust.
im in a similiar situation, since i own a MINI S and just bought the s2k as a fun car. i ended up getting an AP1.
It sounds like you still need to do a lot more research.
Obviously do a carfax. Check for any off colored or non matching panels. (Could mean its been in an accident) Check for oil leaks. Make sure the top motors function properly. AP1 will probably need a top replaced down the line if it hasn't already been.
Fast wear items:
-Rear window if plastic
-drivers side carped on the brace
-headlights tend to cloud
-pull trunk liner and check for water build up and/or rust
-drivers side seat bolsters
etc...etc...
Obviously do a carfax. Check for any off colored or non matching panels. (Could mean its been in an accident) Check for oil leaks. Make sure the top motors function properly. AP1 will probably need a top replaced down the line if it hasn't already been.
Fast wear items:
-Rear window if plastic
-drivers side carped on the brace
-headlights tend to cloud
-pull trunk liner and check for water build up and/or rust
-drivers side seat bolsters
etc...etc...
I would recommend going with an 02+ S2000, if you test drove it and loved it, buy it. As long as you can either afford a beater or have other cars to drive when you need more room/ there's bad weather etc.


