ok, so I wanna know the actual redline of the stock f22b1 engine. not the 6500 rpm rev limit but the true limit you can push it to

 

Why are you asking? Is it that you just want to know or are you planning on doing something that will allow the B1 to make power above 5500?

Are you buying a cam that doesn't require upgraded springs but has a higher RPM range?

I'm sure you could rev the stock engine to 7500k for a little while. But on a stock internal B1, anything above 5500 rpm and all your doing is making noise.

 

start it up, hold the gas to the floor till the limiter does it's thing... if you want to know what it is you must plan to use it so what's it matter..?

 

I was wondering because me and a friend were driving last night and he told me to break 110mph so i did but then I had to slow down fast for a corner and my car being an auto I just put it into 1st figuring that it wouldnt shift until it is safe for the engine like normally, wrong, the tach needle went up passed 8k, Im assuming it would have been 9k. and all this happened with no damage to the engine

 

i believe 6500 is the redline limiter, but i wouldnt recommend tryin that stunt again.

 

I know I just thought it was crazy that my engine handled 9k without any problems

 

Something about that does not sound right....

I have an auto as well, for now at least. And I have down shifted into first, when I meant second, and the car did not downshift until it was safe for the engine to do so without hitting redline. Have you chipped or swapped ECU's?

 

u couldnt have had it in 9k range for long unless theres major slippage and i dont see it happening there either. the oem computer is programmed to cut off fuel and ignition before 9k im almost 99% sure.

 

this is how mine works. never goes past the rev limiter. shifting like that with an auto tranny is really really bad for the tranny. it does more damage then you think

 

no my ecu isnt chipped, and the ecu does cut spark and probably fuel but that only helps if your giving it throttle i was just downshifting and it shifted down when I didnt think it would. it almost made me **** my pants when I saw the tach

 

7200 but why take it that high it stops making power after 6000

 

I wasnt purposely taking it that high I just wanted to know to see how lucky I got

 

Oh I know it does damage. Kind of funny how they put it in the Accord User's Manual that you can shift through the gears of the automatic when it is harmful to the trans itself.

 

what damage does it do?

 

i don't know the mechanics behind it but the automatic is supposed to automatically shift. its not meant to be thrown two gears down when you tell it to with the shifter but rather with the accelerater. in this manner it will follow the stock rev limit. manuals are faster because manual transmissions are better at transferring power from engine to the wheels. autos just really don't cut it. i can't wait to switch to a 5spd

im just saying i learned the hard way when i had to change my auto tranny. luckily for me i was able to do it myself and save a whole bunch of money.

 

first of all you will burn the clutch packs up in a matter of 6 months if done daily.
Second your transmission will get hotter than it is designed to get, and it can and will burn up the internal filter, cause particles (both foreign and of the filter) to be sucked into the gears themselves. This leads to tooth damage, torque converter slippage and ultimately Transmission failure. (My dad is a honda tech)

Trust me I learned the hard way. So I bought a 5sp.

It says that you may shift as such in the owners manual when extra force is required (passing and hill climbing) it does not say drive this like a manual lol

***edit***
oh and according to the dynos the stock f22b1 falls off almost seamlessly at 6100 rpms.

But like my f22b1 with a Bisi Level 2 Cam can make power well past that, but I like my springs and retainers (they are still stock) to keep the valves where they are. I have my rev cut set at 6500 which the power band falls off shortly after. Usual shift is at 6300, allowing me to fall back in to the heart of the power band and where my peak torque is.

***end edit***

 

hey bisipoweredcd5 correct me if im wrong but doesnt the oem computer cutoff fuel and fire at a certain rpm on your f22? i thought this was a safety feature to prevent going to 9000rpms as stated here. I know its on my AEM computer i figured it would definetly be on factory ecu's.

 

Yes it does, going at ~115mph at maybe like 4k rpm? I have not seen any data reflecting that it has an over-rev cut off. Nor have I experienced it myself.

In normal everyday driving you should NEVER have a reason to do what the OP did. All you're doing is blowing up trannys and probably the motor as well. The owner's manual clearly states what each one of those selections are for, the gist of it is:

1 - heavy snow/ice (you are going slow as ****) it locks you in 1st gear and does not shift upwards

2 - snow/ice/inclimate weather - same as above, starts in 1st gear then shifts into 2nd and locks you in

D3 - towing/hills/bad weather/etc 1st > 2nd > 3rd then locks you there

D4 - everyday driving



OP, while you think your idea is brilliant it is not. You went from practically topping your vehicle out to the bottom gear. You car easily revved over 9k rpm with that. Without a clutch as well it happened instantly and you were not able to control it (like a misshift, just jam the clutch back in and pop out of the gear).

Leave the damn gear selector in D4.

And as an FYI, at 110mph you have "intent to kill" if you had gotten pulled. Your tires are not rated for that speed and could have blown on you, your car is not meant to go that speed. And by the level of intelligence displayed by "downshifting" for a turn from 110mph I know none of that was considered. I would strongly suggest growing up and respecting the vehicle your parents probably gave you.

 

muffinman you are freakin halarious! i have read your post atleast 5 times and still LMAO! the funny thing is i know exactly what u mean. would u be safe to say the op prolly revs in neutral then slams into #1 on shifter??

 

Lol, I think it is VERY safe to say neutral drops are a common occurrence in that Accord.

 

not to bring down the self-esteem of the OP, but I'm in total agreement with themuffinman on this one. that's like trying to go from 5th to first in a manual trans (with the exception that my trans locks me out of first till i slow down enough)...if you've been driving like that everyday, then i suggest you stop so that you don't have at least 6k in parts expenses alone.

 

your right, but believe it or not its closer to 7,000
the only reason i know is because on my second CD5,
the PCV valve blew out of the valve cover once, and i clutched thinking i mis
shifted, yet the rpms kept rising till i killed the vehicle due to air getting into the motor. It limiited at about 7k even i think, but i didn't leave it to check it out for more than a half a second lol. scary moment. glad that i didnt crack a retainer or bind a spring. The f22 isnt built for those revs...

 

i agree its scary to think that a 3 dollar item can potential cost 1000+ in damage, crazy how engines work ya know.

 

Yeah and the worst part is how fast it happened. I seriously though something F&%ked up and then i popped the hood and was instantly like SERIOUSLY?
damn lol.
So when i put my new cam in, I just threadloc'd it to the valve cover haha

 

nice that baby aint goin no where now! hehe!