SPC anchor kit
Has anyone used these to get some negative camber by running them in the other direction or some other kind of modification?
Seems like a pretty simple way to get a little more camber that isn't prone to slippage or clearance issues like some of the other kits. It's relatively inexpensive too. Any disadvantages to an offset bushing? Thanks.
Seems like a pretty simple way to get a little more camber that isn't prone to slippage or clearance issues like some of the other kits. It's relatively inexpensive too. Any disadvantages to an offset bushing? Thanks.
Looking at it, I think if you tried flipping it around you'd have clearance issues on the shock tower. There are other options available that don't involve slippage though, like the SPC UCAs (as one example).
Be aware that at least the older Skunk2 ones can slip! The new ones are supposed to not do this, but I know of at least one person who has them and they DID slip. This should be the case on any of these adjustable pieces, but especially the Skunk2 stuff, tighten them up as a preliminary "nut and bolting" before an event, and keep an eye on them through the weekend. I had just such a problem at my last track weekend, and it was very annoying and frustrating.
Also be aware that the Skunk2s have poorer clearance in the shock tower area, and if the car is low enough, will bang against it. NOT a good time. The SPC ones are designed a bit differently and don't seem to have that issue.
Also be aware that the Skunk2s have poorer clearance in the shock tower area, and if the car is low enough, will bang against it. NOT a good time. The SPC ones are designed a bit differently and don't seem to have that issue.
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ED9man:
I have done EXACTLY what you are talking about. I have run the 84945's on my EF backwards to gain NEGATIVE camber. A bench grinder was a MAJOR part of the contribution. I had to measure and grind down the Anchor AND ground "open" the UCA where the anchor mounts to allow for full movement of my UCA. But worked, and it worked very very well.
I have done EXACTLY what you are talking about. I have run the 84945's on my EF backwards to gain NEGATIVE camber. A bench grinder was a MAJOR part of the contribution. I had to measure and grind down the Anchor AND ground "open" the UCA where the anchor mounts to allow for full movement of my UCA. But worked, and it worked very very well.
ED9man:
I have done EXACTLY what you are talking about. I have run the 84945's on my EF backwards to gain NEGATIVE camber. A bench grinder was a MAJOR part of the contribution. I had to measure and grind down the Anchor AND ground "open" the UCA where the anchor mounts to allow for full movement of my UCA. But worked, and it worked very very well.
I have done EXACTLY what you are talking about. I have run the 84945's on my EF backwards to gain NEGATIVE camber. A bench grinder was a MAJOR part of the contribution. I had to measure and grind down the Anchor AND ground "open" the UCA where the anchor mounts to allow for full movement of my UCA. But worked, and it worked very very well.
ED9man:
I have done EXACTLY what you are talking about. I have run the 84945's on my EF backwards to gain NEGATIVE camber. A bench grinder was a MAJOR part of the contribution. I had to measure and grind down the Anchor AND ground "open" the UCA where the anchor mounts to allow for full movement of my UCA. But worked, and it worked very very well.
I have done EXACTLY what you are talking about. I have run the 84945's on my EF backwards to gain NEGATIVE camber. A bench grinder was a MAJOR part of the contribution. I had to measure and grind down the Anchor AND ground "open" the UCA where the anchor mounts to allow for full movement of my UCA. But worked, and it worked very very well.
in a fit of irony, I found this thread just as I was going to update this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/diy-adjustable-oem-front-upper-control-arms-ucas-2704075/ regarding installing the SPC 84945 anchor bolts backwards... The ironic thing is that I bought my anchor bolts from the OP, lol.
The good news, as you can see, the anchor bolts will clear the DC UCA's at their full range of motion (the aft anchor bolt needs to be barely ground down to clear, we're talking 1/16ths of an inch)



The sorta-bad news, the shock tower will need some slight persuasion with a BFH to get the aft anchor bolt installed... from what I gathered, about 1/4"-3/8".
I didn't install these as I'm not ready to fix my camber yet but I wanted to take some preliminary pictures while I was under the car installing new axles.
The good news, as you can see, the anchor bolts will clear the DC UCA's at their full range of motion (the aft anchor bolt needs to be barely ground down to clear, we're talking 1/16ths of an inch)



The sorta-bad news, the shock tower will need some slight persuasion with a BFH to get the aft anchor bolt installed... from what I gathered, about 1/4"-3/8".
I didn't install these as I'm not ready to fix my camber yet but I wanted to take some preliminary pictures while I was under the car installing new axles.
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TailZ
Honda Civic (2001 - 2005)
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Jun 16, 2010 07:21 PM






