Disclaimer: This is a guide. I you mess something up....you did it, not me!

Thanks to Pirate for helping me out with this....

I noticed ont the current write up the pictures were not working, so I thought I would make a little refresher course
Tools you will need include:

- Torque wrench
- Ratchet x2
- 6" extension x2
- 19mm Socket - crank pulley
- 12mm Socket - Torque wrench
- 10mm Socket - VC nuts
- Spark plug socket
- 12mm combination wrench
- Flat head screwdriver
- Feeler gauges
- Mechanix gloves
- Beer, water, soda (I.E. your drink of choice) mine was water



Honestly its not a hard job, just tedious. I think it took me 45 minutes MAX.

This is what you walk up to when you open your hood! wow an engine


First step: Remove Valve cover.

5 10mm Bolts(don't loose the washers and seals)
PCV valve
VC Ground
take out spark plug wires
and remove spark plugs (makes it easier to rotate crank)



Try not to break your VC gasket. If it comes of in one piece and it looks good, reuse it. If not, spend the $5 and get a new one.

This is what you'll see when the VC is off



Step 2: I know the Helms says rotate the crank CCW to TDC.


While searching around I came across a thread by the Late Marcucci. Instead of using TDC just rotate so the cam Lobe is pointing away from the rocker. It worked for me, but do what you choose.



Step 3:
Once the cam Lobes are pointing away from the rocker, check your clearence. Notice right now the .006 fits. I'm adjusting the EXH to .006 and the intake to .004(specs courtesy of Pirate)


If the .006 fits, try the .007. Does it fit? If so. Loosen the Lock nut and tighten the adjustment screw. After doing a couple you'll get a feel for it. Now everyone says "BE CAREFUL NOT TO MOVE THE SCREW." Yea Yea. Now, you really dont have to be THAT careful. Just hold it in place and tighten the lock nut. Recheck your clearence. If it works great.



I adjusted the valves so the .006 had some drag (but still fit), and the .007 did not fit. It takes time so be patient.



I went through and did all of the EXH valves, then the IN.

Step 4:
GO BACK AND CHECK EVERYTHING AGAIN!

Step 5:
CHECK IT AGAIN

Step 6: Torque the lock nuts to 20 ft/lbs


Step 7: Reinstall step 1.

Step 8: Start the car up and listen to your new quiet valves!

 

thanks for the reminder that i need to do mine SOON.

 

Very nice writeup

That rotating to TDC stuff is a big waste of time like you said. All you need is the cam lobe to not be contacting the rocker arm and you can do the valve lash. Usually 2-3 sets can be done at a time before you have to rotate the engine to a new position.

 

Quality write-up.

+1 on the non-TDC method. Saves time so you can spend more time driving!

 

The adjustment lock nut is 20 ft/lbs: Not 16.





Good write-up

 

^oops...my bad.

 

Great write-up man. i even printed it out to help me adjust mine in the future.

 

so im thinking of doing this today. where can i get that tool that reads the .006 and .007 measurements? also a little more specification to what ill be doing after removing the valve cover would be nice. i havent had my 95 si for that long but i want to learn to do this stuff on my own so im not paying hundreds for a job, you know? im only 17 so i can learn. plz help. i got a damn list of crap i need to fix within the month on my ride.

 

Good luck with that.

http://axidworks.com/index.php?route...n/faq&topic=85

Download a manual and read it. You can get a FEELER GAUGE at any auto store for no more than 5 bucks.

 

We have the helms manual in FAQ section that you can download which will give you step by syrup instructions with pictures .

 

What is the link I will post that instead from now on here.