I had this guy build me this motor he burned me for 4000......... wouldnt you all love to meet me lol..... Ok here is what i need to know what is the best way for me to break it in it going to be a daily driver but weekend toy i need the help thanks

 

let car run for about 20 or so minutes. make sure everything good. drain oil put some new oil back in and just drive around for a little to make sure everything is good. that all i ever did.

 

do what he said. really not neccesary to change oil immediatly
then change oil at 500
then change again at 1000.
after that it should be broke in.

during that time of break in.
just drive in normal.
dont do burn outs or take in real high rpm's
avoid long trips, or keeping the motor at same rpm, or higher rpm for long periods

thats what i always do.
in addition i check oil daily.
look over everything real good.
make sure no leaks, everythings tight and in order.

as far as paying 4000.
it depends on what you got and what quality.
paying a shop is always way expensive.
doing things right can be very costly.
i think paying a shop for the motor & building motor RIGHT. and doing swap
4000 isnt really that bad.

but if you paid 400 grand to drop off a motor and pick it up "rebuilt" that would be way high
if you had it"Built" like new crank forged parts and crank gurdle
stailess 3 angle valve job, cams. and any other upgraded you can throw at it.
4000 might not be so bad.

so what did you get?

 

I know his build im not sure if he wants me to put all his specs out there for the world to see.

what he paid for and what he got are way different.

he paid 4000 for a virgin 88 crx si and have a 220 WHP ls/v built, put in, tuned, delivered to his door ready to run.

what he got was a bottom end assembled. b18b1, p30 pistons. gsr head. minor port and polish. stainless steel valves, super tech springs and retainers. "suppose" to be custom grind cams. but look identical to stock gsr cams. head was not put on block. half *** oil feed line from oil sending unit. there was just too much we had to do to this car to type.

he got ****ed. live and learn.

his ecu is an obd2 ecu with obd0 plogs on it with hondata s200. im gonna let him use my s300 and just get a jumper harness for break in.


the method I was going to go with on break in.

20 min. idle let get up to temp
change oil
1st gear half throttle to 4k full decel, 2nd gear half throttle 5k full decel, 3rd gear 6k full decel. then change oil

20 mile drive nothing over 3k, change oil
then 100 mile oil change stop and go not going over 3500 rpm.

then 500 mile oil change with stop and go nothing over 3500.

that is the method used for a shop that builds b series motor for the speedway here in Bakersfield. the builder breaks in all his motors in this way and ive yet to see anyone of them take a ****

 

thats just insane.
2 oil changes before driving??
then a third 20 miles later.

i think that is too much.

i would says get running , rev , then drive 20 and change oil at most.
then 500 and 500

 

the 4k 5k and 6k pull is with a load on the motor. so it will be driving on the road. its to seat the rings right

 

lol ypu i got ripped off bad like he said i was going to get it back tuned and ready to go .... But he started saying i need more money i as going to break it in hard

 

Do oil change and drive normal.

Don't rev it high keep it at low rpms.

 

so 20min ideal the drive it hard