I think my trans is done,

(partly to blame on the stupid zip tie mod that made my shifting notchy and binding and hard to get into 5th, I cut the zip ties off my new shift cables and shifting was so much smoother, wish i had done this before i wrecked my trans)

in the last 2 months i've had about 6 miss shifts 2 last weeken..
that as soon as the engine got loud i let off the clutch, but clutch still grabbed at high rpms in the wrong gear, of which i didnt continue to throttle into. And just tonight after having to push start my car, cause i ran it dead, by forgetting to reconnect my alternator cable after installing new belts that got torn. diff story....

Was out driving spiritedly and when down shifting back down to 5k the trans started making a nasty loud revving noise anywhere above 4.5k rpm. and when letting off the trottle in high revs in gear. But not when upshifting and driving under vtec.

Then when i got to the garage i was riding the clutch to maneuver the car into the space and it was making this noise with 1st gear. I shut the car off and turned it on fine, but i cant put it in any gear now.

RIP // M2Y4 with 40k miles and mfactory 4.64fd, with quaife, etc...

So what do you guys think i need to fix....?

Besides my driving, ha, i almost fixed the problem with the shift cables, and was going to get a short shifter....there was also play in the shifter itself in any gear from side to side, i dont know if that was normal... it was a used shifter i tried having the installers put new parts on it, but i think they got lost in the mess of parts i had to install in my car during my swap......

 

r.i.p clutch and pressure plate your tranny shouldnt be toast

 

that would be nice if its only the clutch. But during the time of failure, the clutch was still letting me shift gears and if the clutch is released after the gear is engaged, the clutch is off how would it make all that noise if its not grabbing the flywheel? And only after 4k rpm? But I guess problem points to clutch since now i cant get it into gear.

 

I think you should learn how to not shift-miss.....

 

x2
Newb manual driver FTL........

Im guessing that M2Y4 wasn't in as good of condition as you thought it was.......
Now maybe you can understand why I bought a Brand New M2Y4 from Honda for $1750. 3 trans swaps in as many years......This trans is good to go for a long long time! It will only be replaced by a GEARSPEED Built trans with a 4.64 MFactory.
i wouldn't blame the FD or Quaife......Or the installer!
Curious about the Zip Ties though......I am pretty sure "I" didn't tell you to do that.......and if I mentioned it, it was in reference to being used in a Civic/Integra........

Good luck!....

 

I think the trans is still good, i bet the clutch disk had just exploded. The trans was still fresh on the inside when the lsd and fd were installed, after all it only had about 40k miles on it. The previous owner removed it right away to swap a lsd trans in.. so it was not abused.

I dont know if miss shift is the right word, but I downshifted when i should of up shifted. But on the drive home when the car was still driving it was engaging all the gears smoothly, it just got really loud after 4k rpms.

 

would a exedy stage 2 clutch handle more shock than a stage 1?

Or would a stock clutch been safer to use?

 

I wouldn't blame the "STAGE" of clutch......
The Exedy 2 will beat you up on the street......very tricky clutch and needs to be revved to work. it chatters if you don't......

This was a new clutch that you were using?

IDK about every else....but I call a 2-3-2 a mis-shift...

 

i would just stick with OEM clutch. shouldnt need much more than that unless you have a built motor. but thats just my opinion. if u just want something better than OEM get exedy stage 1.

 

I don't think he just learned.....but he's just learning how to drive the Prelude with it after 7-8yrs with an auto.....

The LSD/FD were done by One6!

Things happen very fast at 8000rpms!

Newer driver+questionable trans+zip tie trick meant for Civic/Integra=Potential disaster......

I have no problem admitting I have mis-shifted......My VAFC2 locked 9995rpms before my rev limited caught! didn't bend any valves though.......I was shocled!

 

I know how to drive stick, also know about rev matching, and heel-toe, .., Ive driven stick many times before the prelude. The problem is that i had a used shifter, zip tied new shift cables..the shifter was always notchy and hard to get into gear sometimes, i usually had to run it through all the gears at the light to get the cables freed up....a forbidden short shifter could of helped too.

What i'm comparing with aftermarket clutch and OEM is that since the aftermarket grabs harder it put forth more after shock on a mis shift right?

Was just wondering if the higher stages within a brand name have more strength to withstand that shock of persay a miss shift.

and if a OEM grabs with less force then maybe a miss shift would have less less shock?

and usually i only do hard fast shift when racing, if im not i engage the gears slower...

The best shifting is on rwd trannies where the shifter is directly on the trans.

 

Driving it here and there doesn't really count......And NOT having raced around in a Prelude doesn't help.......I can almost guarantee a ride with me, and you'd feel like you don't know how to drive it.......I make grown men cry for their mommies!

DRIVER MOD REQ'D


Keep us filled in on the outcome.....

 

true, but ive done one day at blackhawk farms, that was just a clinic. but after the gc's and konis i did experience some weight transfer on the on/off ramps.



So - if the problem is just a clutch, should i just get a honda clutch or get the same exedy organic stage 1 oem replacement again?

 

meh.. your tranny's built for mild abuse i say throw something fun to drive at it. the slushy stage 1 clutch is no fun IMO. How about a nice ACT setup with a lightweight flywheel?

 

In a 120whp AutoLude------AutoLuder!

You know me, I have had great luck with Clutchmasters Stage3. Full disc, smooth engagement, and handled my ~300whp/250tq with ease. ~50k miles and counting in my DD, which has also seen violent track days.
Currently run the Exedy2, wouldn't want it for a Street Car.

 

prob a spring on the clutch disc is loose or broken

 

clint, clutchmaster's new line up is different. Full disk full kevlar is stage 2 and stage 3 is part kevlar every other patch. Take a look and tell me what you think. I actually like the idea of kevlar, didnt think about it till after my exedy was purchased. But kevlar is supposed to last forever?....Anyways i picked exedy cause it seemed to hold up the best over the top three brands, but not for mis shifts haha...

 

Kevlar's composition is built to last, but the trade-off is that kevlar discs (just as kevlar brakes) need to be warmed up to operate properly. So be prepared for sensitive clutch engagement on cold mornings and whatnot. I personally would only run one with extreme horsepower for my daily driver, otherwise the 10-30k that ceremetallic offers is more than enough

woops didn't mean to generalize, the 10-30k figure is from my past experience with my ACT's, exedy's, and competition clutches

 

 

Driving my CC stage 3 in the morning SUCKS before it's warmed up lol. Major chatter and the engagement point is all funky. Great clutch though, holds great on track days when downshifting at high rpms

 

well the exedy was a organic disc. I only have right now 183whp..Clutch masters stage 1+ is more than twice the price of exedy oem replacement. But maybe stage 3 of something can take more abuse, is that it? The stage 3 of cc and cm says carbon kevlar, is that still the same thing dagle?

 

carbon kevlar is not the same as a regular kevlar clutch. The carbon kevlar ones are the regular looking ones, the "pure" kevlar ones are the ones that use the tan kevlar on the friction disc. The CC stage 2 is carbon kevlar, the stage 3 is segmented kevlar.

The CM FX200 is interesting, I've never seen a full faced kevlar disc before...I'd imagine that it drives like buttah', my segmented one is nice enough as it is. The FX300 is comparable to the CC stage 3. Any of the above mentioned clutches will hold just fine and last a long time

 

I called Clutchmasters today and he said that kevlar has no problems in cold, and its not "on/off" type feeling till you get stage 4.

You can ride the clutch a little bit like in bumper to bumper traffic without the kevlar glazing over.

As far was what clutch would of been better for the transmission in a miss shift scenario - Its OEM, because less clamping force would allow the clutch to slip and produce less shock on the gear box than a aftermarket clutch would.

As far as which clutch can hold up to a miss shift better - prob OEM if it slips, But neither aftermarket or OEM is designed to handle miss shifts because your asking the clutch to go in the opposite direction or work in a opposite manner.

And stage 1 - 3 the clutch disk minus the friction material is all the same. But he did say that the springs are stronger in the disk than a exedy.

one more thing on stage 2 and 3, he said they drive exactly the same, just that stage 3 has a little more torque handling ability.

 

People are usually turned off by the Clutchmasters b/c of price....

 

yea i didnt know clutchmasters was so expensive.

So question now is if I dont plan on mods for a long time cause my vtec swap/ auto to manual conversion was so damn expensive....and I wont be breaking 200whp anytime soon.

Maybe a Honda OEM clutch on current (hopefully undamaged) 12lb flywheel is a good choice.

Unless aftermarket clutches make shifting that much faster to really shave some time off your 1/4 mile, sorta doubt it...

But kinda thinking kevlar clutch would last forever....