MY DAILY DRIVER IS ACTING UP AND I AM LOOKING FOR SOMEONE IN THE ORLANDO AREA WITH MORE MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE THAN ME THAT MIGHT BE ABLE TO HELP ME TROUBLE SHOOT AND REPAIR WHAT AILS MY 95 CIVIC EX.

CURRENTLY IT IS NOT STARTING AND IT GIVES SORT OF A SEMI ELECTRICAL HUM WHEN I TRY TO START IT.

IT ALSO HAS AN OIL LEAK. i NEED TO GET THIS CAR BACK ON THE ROAD ASAP AS IT IS MY DAILY DRIVER. aNY LOCAL HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

tONY

 

Sounds kinda like a bad starter. Either that or you're not getting spark, likely due to a bad ignition coil.

When you turn the key to on (before you turn it to start), does the check engine light turn on for a few seconds and turn back off? At that moment, you should also hear the fuel pump make a humming noise... this indicates the fuel pump is priming. Is that the humming noise you are talking about?

 

Ok car attempts to crank, but does not start.

Tested distributor, and ICM,... both good. Pulled fuel rail, injectors working,...so what next ?

Yes the check engine light comes on BTW, when you turn on the key. Fuses OK.

Seems like an ignition problem of some sort.

 

Are the spark plug wires on the distributor cap all in the right order?

 

Does the CEL remain ON when you turn the key to ON(II)? If so, pull the codes as described here.

Can you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when the key is turned to ON(II)?

Have you checked for spark at the plugs? Click here.

 

Plugs are in correct order.

There is spark.

Fuel pump primes.

 

Pull the CEL codes from the ECU and check the mechanical timing.

 

Took the car to a shop and they said the engine has virtually no compression.

However a friend who took a look at it previously said he did not think the engine was toast.

???

 

Did the timing belt slip? If you don't believe the mechanic, compression test the cylinders yourself.

 

dont belive **** that shops say. Especially in the economic time were in now. They will rip you off even harder. Buy a compression tester at a local autoparts store and test it yourself.

 

i would say same as RONJ check timing. if the timing is off it will compromis the compression test

 

Talked to the mechanic again and he says he did indeed checking the timing and it was good.

The compression numbers he gave me were 35-55 dry, and around 120 wet.

I believe it should be up around 135 or so ?

They weren't really trying to shake me down either, IMO (like pushing me to fix or do an engine swap), they seemed more like this car's time has come.

 

You can put another D16Z6 in that car for like $300. (well, if you do it yourself... getting a shop to do it should be all that outrageous though, it's a direct replacement swap).

You'd just need the engine, since you can reuse anything else.

 

how did that happen rofl 30 psi? that doesnt just happen over night...