Debating on which crank to use in my new build, Im shooting for around 600hp and was wondering the pros and cons of each and which setup most of you guys have used. Its going to be in a daily driven street car and im going to be using eagle rods and je pistons but im not sure on which crank i want to go with. Any input/advise would be appreciated

 

You'll need to match the Crank and Rods together. LS Crank = LS Rods (even aftermarket) GSR Crank = GSR Rods (even aftermarket)

The question is a matter of torque, so there are really no disadvantages that I can really think of. You will gain over 25% more torque (which is nice on the street or circuit course) with the better stroke. In your case the "rod stroke ratio" is not that important since you won't need to "rev to the moon" in order to get the power you're looking for. Some people like to max each engine with high rpms. I personally don't find it necessary, but that is up to you and your needs. There's not a "better or worse" option.

 

To clarify I'm pretty sure he meant you would get more torque with an LS, just forgot to mention which one.

Thats exactly what I'm doing for my upcoming build, sleeved GSR, LS Crank and B16a2 Head, Best of all worlds

 

Correct. LS = longer stroke than GS-R. My apologies.

 

25% tq would be very nice... what about hp?

 

hp is a function of tq...depends on rpm's..

Tq x rpm / 5252 = hp

So more tq, then more hp.

 

Gotcha, now gsr an ls main bearings are the same so i would just use the gsr mainbearings and ls rod correct? And the tq specs for the mains? are they also the same? Thanks

 

use new oem bolts, don't use studs on the mains. and the gsr girdle is fine, no need for an aftermarket one.

 

Use the bearings based upon the Crank used, (measuring is best), not by Engine type. Power will mainly be the same, torque will increase in better part of the powerband of the engine.

 

So my question is with the oil squirters I've read from endyne are not needed with forged pistons anyone With personal experience?

 

I Kept the squiters in my Build,

Its probably going to be tuff to get the piston skirts to clear them though.
there has been great success with and with out them

I like the idea of keeping them in if possible

 

So just order an acl bearings for an ls. I lost one of the maincap bolts so im probably gonna order arp main bolts. Also i heard you can bend the squirters to clear?

 

Then the oil will not squirt where it is supposed to. So there would be no point in having them. If you have to bend them it would probably be best to take them out. This will also give you increased oil pressure.

 

I've had them break, or scrape against the skirts with the LS crank. They aren't needed with FORGED internals, but I used a GE oil squirter block kit.

 

Another thing I'd like to address in this thread is lately I've read that an LS/B20 crank in an LS/VTEC setup can cause extra stress on the rods because the extra 2mm of stroke weren't meant to see RPMs in excess of 7500. How does this stand, if you have forged internals, a balanced crank and ARP bolts shouldn't you be even better off than a stock GSR?

 

You've read the wrong information about that. when balanced correctly, you can rev to 9000 with it. What you're looking at is Rod/stroke ratio, and you're fine...

 

Ah yea, thanks. I need to go back and reread all my books

 

I just went though all this and Jeff Evans was nice enough to answer a few question concerning it.

He said he had seen no added or odd bearing wear during tear downs of 9+k rpm engines using 87 vs 89mm cranks.

You can use b16 rod bearings instead of LS rod bearings. B16 rod bearings are more durable and can withstand rpms better.

I used GSR pistons with the ls length rods and ls 89mm crank in a gsr block. This will yield aprox 0.5:1 compression bump. I haven't quite figured out how this is, and have played with calculators and did not see this, but I was told this however.

Ditched the oil squirters with GE Plugs. I did this mainly because of forged pistons and it put more oil pressure and volume in the areas that need them most, ex: mains..

I had a local machine shop do a 5 thousands pwc and balance the whole rotating asm.

I just got finished assembling it:

GE b18c1 81mm/89mm, LS turbo tuff's and Manley GSR pistons, oem main studs, ge headstuds

Now if I can just figure out how to keep all the copper o rings in their place sitting still, I can install the itr head and gasket.

 

I keep seeing this b16 bearing vs LS bearing thing. Is there any truth to that? (b16's being better than LS)

 

Whats weird is that I ordered a set of ACL Race rod bearings twice for a b16 and "LS" tagged rod bearings arrived.

From what I gather it applies to oem bearings and there are differences in the layers.

 

so your saying the ls and b16 bearings are the same part # from acl as well? how much did the balancing run you?

 

For some reason I though the bearing tang was on opposite sides between the LS and b16.

 

hm, cause i plan on revving this pretty high..... 9500+ possibly

 

If the power and torque work out well for the car, there is no reason to go that high in rpm.
Let the car rev where the power makes the most, and call it a day. Having that rpm just to brag about it makes no sense later.

 

I dynoed it before with the same setup in an ls block, and the power was still climbing at around 9k. Im going to be using ctr cams