is it a good idea to wetsand a car that's been painted for a while? i ask because i got a new car recently that has some drips. will be repainting in october but would like to fix this up for the time being. i was thinking wetsand/wax/polish would make a big difference. btx the cars white. thanks.

 

Are the runs in the clear or the base? You can sand and buff out your clear at any time. With any wetsand/buff though, try to take of the least amount to accomplish what you'd like.

 

I'd wet sand it down using a long hand block with some really high grit sand paper then buff it with some cutting cream... Stay away from edges and corners...

 

u dont need a sanding block if ur not doing body work, if he just wants to sand it just rough up the paint with some sandpaper. 120, 220, 400 then paint.

 

apparantly you didnt read the thread title or the first post, hes not wanting to prep it for paint. hes wanting to wetsand and buff it to get some old runs out. AND ANYWAY YES, YOU DO need a block even if your not doing bodywork. its always a better idea to block a run out rather than just sanding it. you want to sand the high spots, thats what a block is for. read before you post.

 

and again, YES YOU DO need a sanding block, even if your not doing bodywork. If your not an idiot that is. Its always a good idea to block a car down even before starting bodywork to find your low spots and areas that need attention. Half the stuff that you see on a car can be blocked out and never see any body filler, blocking and primer go a long way on small little dents or imperfections.staying away from using bodyfiller is always more optimal.

 

oh, I thought he just wanted to fix the drips.

 

What's with all the bunk info? If someone obviously answers a question correctly let it be. Especially if you know absolutely nothing about the subject at hand. /\/\/\

 

i would never hand sand without using a block

unless its some type of curved area of the body that a block obviously cannot be efficiently utilized.

 

Woot woot! Va boy got my back...

Negative batman... Even with a drip use a block... If not you'll have low and high spots and even waves... If the clear is fresh and you're highly skilled you can used a razor... If not spread some icing over it and block it down very easy...

I second this...

 

Yeah...if you sand a high spot without a block, you end up just rounding it over more and sanding the heck out of the surrouding areas. Instead of only knocking down the high part, you'll never get it totally flush without a flat block because the paper will contour a bit over the bump.

 

the car im talking about is a 92 cx hatch. didn't come with factory side moldings. the worst drips are in the area where the moldings would be.

i think that the drips are in the paint, not the clear. i was thinking about just using sandpaper on the high spots? i think im just gunna leave it for now as it's not that noticable. thanks for the input though.

 

if someone did it to basically sell the car, and you think the run is in the paint, AND its white. they most likely used a single stage paint (also known as an enamel type paint) .
with it being white you are still safe to wet sand and buff her out.

if it was a stock paint, youmight not want to have wet sanded it or if you did be careful. alot of factory paint jobs dont use alot of clear when they were painted and can break thru very easily.

 

be careful not to sand much on edges

 

why not just get the moldings and paint them and then put them on the car and cover up the shittieness?Atleast until ur ready to paint the whole thing