Oil light and idle problems.
This problems with this car keep stressing me out, this is what I have done so far:
Adjusted tps voltage to 0.50 volts at closed throtle
IACV is fine
Idle screw won't do much
No vaccum leaks
This is what's keeps going on, when it's fully warmed, I rev the engine and the rpms drop and dies, if it doesn't, the oil light starts flashing, when I turn on the car again the oil light stays on, when I rev it up again the light goes away but comes back on or the car just stalls again, it's an H23vtec (not the oem blue top) and I'm not sure if the guy who assembled it didn't do it right or it has an oil leak somewhere which causes low oil pressure and would cause this problem, does anyone have any comments or suggestion.
I forgot to mention compression is about 11:5.1, Crower stage 2 cams, skunk 2 70mm tb, 8lb flywheel, fully balanced bottom, p28 with a basemap for my build.
Adjusted tps voltage to 0.50 volts at closed throtle
IACV is fine
Idle screw won't do much
No vaccum leaks
This is what's keeps going on, when it's fully warmed, I rev the engine and the rpms drop and dies, if it doesn't, the oil light starts flashing, when I turn on the car again the oil light stays on, when I rev it up again the light goes away but comes back on or the car just stalls again, it's an H23vtec (not the oem blue top) and I'm not sure if the guy who assembled it didn't do it right or it has an oil leak somewhere which causes low oil pressure and would cause this problem, does anyone have any comments or suggestion.
I forgot to mention compression is about 11:5.1, Crower stage 2 cams, skunk 2 70mm tb, 8lb flywheel, fully balanced bottom, p28 with a basemap for my build.
Last edited by meanshyguy; Jun 5, 2009 at 03:53 PM.
i had this problem on my h23a1...shortly after, it started to knock and that was the end of that basically i would say stop driving it and get a new oil pump cuz its proly bad i got the kms high flow pump but i suppose u could just get an oem one..and get urself an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on it
It's weird because I had just bought a new one from someone here and had it installed, it was still in the honda packaging, did you rebuild and then installed the new oil pump, maybe it was something else.
check my thread on PP
what are the clearances he used? it's possible (just a guess, not saying it is) that the clearances are too tight and its not receiving enough oil and there is too much friction going on. You need to test your oil pressure. Do you have balancer shafts still or are they blocked off? You should get at least 60psi cold start and at least 10 psi at warm idle if you have them and 70+ cold start without them and around 20psi warm. I'd start there.
you should have had an oil pressure gauge from the get go.
what are the clearances he used? it's possible (just a guess, not saying it is) that the clearances are too tight and its not receiving enough oil and there is too much friction going on. You need to test your oil pressure. Do you have balancer shafts still or are they blocked off? You should get at least 60psi cold start and at least 10 psi at warm idle if you have them and 70+ cold start without them and around 20psi warm. I'd start there.
you should have had an oil pressure gauge from the get go.
no it was stock when this happend and it spun a rod...im not saying this is wats happening with urs just letting u know wat my case hope u figure it out b4 its too late GL bro
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