This weekend I am planning to change the timing belt along with other seals and important things. I have a few questions that I just can't seem to find the answers for.

1. The camshaft seals, how do I remove the gears without rotating the engine?

2. Does the timing belt go on in a certain direction?

I appreciate any help, I have been planning this job for some time now and just want to make sure everything goes smooth. Thanks.

 

1) For the cam gears, you can adjust all of you valves loose to avoid any potential interference issues associated with cam rotation and use a strap wrench to hold the cam gear while removing the bolt.

 

The problem with that is I don't have the tool to re-adjust the valves. The service dept. guy at Acura told me to just loosen it with the timing belt still on. That seems to be the wrong way to me because the belt would be putting pressure on the gear and then I would loosen it? Thanks.

 

There is a lock hole for TDC in the 1-2 cam cap IIRC. You can put a Phillips screwdriver in there to hold the cam. I don't like that for removing the cam gear bolts.

You can buy a tool for a valve adjustment from Amazon. You will also need feeler gauges.

Alltrade 648827 10mm 7-1/2-Inch Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool

 

-You can impact them loose while the old belt is still on. If you don't have an impact, you need to lock them somehow, if they are stock gears just stick a wrench/screwdriver thru and pry on the vc gasket surface of the head (might want to protect it from gouging). Or you can attempt to hold them by torquing another ratchet on the crank (easier with help).

Or, try one of these:


http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...lock_tool.html

They are only torqued to 40ft*lbs or so.. and the crank pulley is 4 times that, so it should hold. And the cam gears are keyed to the cam, so your concern about loosening them with belt tension is a non-issue.


-Timing belt installed on the drive gear, then the exhaust cam, then tensioner, then slide over intake cam. I think. You will figure it out, once its on and you spin the crank a few times its all the same anyway.

Another hint, dont try to line the gear marks up with the top surface of the head, line them up so they are pointing to each other (the inside marks on each gear). When you slide the belt on, they may move, and they dont always line up perfectly.. But you will know when you are off by a tooth. If you're not sure, try moving a tooth in the direction you think and you'll find its a big difference

 

You guys are a big help, and now I feel more confident. I forgot about the key holding them in. I have a Helms manual finally so I think I will be fine. Hopefully this will all be easy without air tools. Thanks.

 

Oh and note that the brass colored ring that goes next to belt on the crank is curved... it needs to curve away from the belt when it goes back otherwise the sharp edge of the ring digs at the edge of the belt.

Make sure to spin the crank several times in a CCW direction to center the belt, and after setting the tension its ok for one side of the belt to feel tighter than the other. I think the book says to tension by counting three cam teeth from TDC, if you have a milled head, your belt will be looser so you should go past that spec until it feels tight. I always just go to maximum tension (you can feel it by how hard it is to turn the crank-i always do it with plugs in)

I personally don't think its possible to be too tight with a stock tensioner spring on a new belt, but others may disagree.

 

Ed is right, timing belt installation gear order:

1) drive gear
2) exhaust cam
3) tensioner
4) intake cam

Be sure to double check timing from the bottom tooth.

The cams lock in place using a 5mm pin. If it is anything less, it will give you a false reading.

Be sure to use hand ratchet the water pump bolts. They only need to be torqued....under 15ft lbs.

Once the belt is properly wrapped, rotate the crank counter clockwise 180 degrees, then tighten the tensioner.

You will need to remove all the belts and the driver side upper motor mount. Its actually pretty easy and its amazing that dealerships charge $500 for labor when it takes me less than 1.5 hours.

 

After doing some searching, i think this is the appropriate thread to post my question.

I am about to replace my cam seal as they are sipping out oil. But I had my belt off already, so what's the proper way to take out the cam seals now? It is TDC and lined with crank before i took the belt off.

 

If the belts off it doesn't really matter. Use an impact, only tighten hand tight then torque once the belt is on. They do make a gear holder. But with the belt being off you should already be at TDC. This thread is super old haha.

 

This thing is cute for $25: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Acura-B16a-B18c-Cam-Gear-Lock-Timing-Belt-Tool-Civic-Integra-Vtec-Engines-/291204860293?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item43cd298985&vxp=mtr

 

I heard Once the belt is properly wrapped, rotate the crank counter clockwise 3 teeth, then tighten the tensioner. Is this incorrect/ work or does it have to be rotated 180 deg?

 

If I didn't have air tools personally id pull the valve cover and hold the cams and loosen the bolt for the cam gear. Make sure everything is lined up and torque it down. mine as well adjust the valves while your in there and don't worry the tools are cheap that! Get it done!

 

The 3 teeth thing is fine. I just roll the crank forward till I feel it start to compress valve springs. Then I hold tension on the crank while I tighten the tensioner bolt. The valve springs and your arm put max tension on the front of the belt, the tensioner spring takes up the slack.