Ok guys finally got my ls ef9 running. So heres my problem I would love to dd this car or at least be able to not have to run 100 octane. I need to know if I can.
Please add if you need more info.

Also, What is the worst that will happen if I continue to drive it? I'm not reving past 4k. Is the worst thing that would happen be my headgasket going or what?


Mod list:

JE 12.7:1 Pistons <---------- HOLY MOLY! (I didn't really think this one through.)
Eagle H rods
ACL bearings
bored out to 82mm
type r water pump
type r oil pump
Lightened and balanced crank
Benen Fuel rail
Chipped
blox intake mani
blox cam gears
blox fuel pressure regulator
Bosch Platinum plus spark plugs
Resurfaced head
Complete valve job
Ls injectors<----------------------------------------------- I think thats the problem.
Megan Crank Pully
GS-R timing belt
Swap Shop Racing Obd-0 to Obd-1 Harness
ARP Headstuds
Walbro 255 LPH-HP Fuel Pump
Fidanza 7.5 lb Flywheel
Blox Fuel Pressure Gauge
12" slim fan
Obd-1 P75
ACT heavy duty clutch

d16 throttle body

 

Half of those mods don't matter but I copy and pasted from my build thread.

 

What type of head? In that entire list I couldn't find what type of head your running. What cams?
Could you clean up the list to only the pertinent items for the Engine?
A p75 ECU chipped and stock LS injectors. Your fuel pressure must be set pretty high.
My only suggestion at this point is get the thickest headgasket you can to get you back to about 11.5:1.

 

Stock ls head with a fresh rebuild.

 

Those injectors should be fine, you need to get a larger throttle body.

And yes, 12.7:1 is too much compression for pump gas, especially 91 octane.

 

since when is 12.7 to high for pump? If the tuner is good its not an issue at all

 

A good tuner and maybe some big cams?

 

Someone being "good" at tuning cannot chemically alter the base structure of the fuel so that it doesn't light off before the plug fires. 12.7:1 WILL ping on 91 octane, especially with small cams.

 

Better list now.
Can 12.7:1 be tuned, yes. But why challenge a tuner, give them something they can work with and spend there time making power not trying to keep the engine from pinging before they even get started.
Two things:
Get it tuned with a programable ECU, Crome or Hondata, something. I'm suprised with a chipped ECU you haven't had any troubles yet.
Try to find a headgasket that will lower you compression ratio.

And once you get this all sorted out a larger TB would be helpful.

 

12.7:1 can be tuned on 91 octane but you will have to pull a boat load of timing. I had too and I am running 13.5:1 on 89 octane with NO pinging.

 

Those roller waves are good but I think you had better start ordering some new parts soon. Pulling timing is causing your EGTs to go thru the roof.

OP, 12.7:1 on 91 octane is a recipe for a short lived motor.

 

Is this your 85x92 that had the VTEC Solenoid trouble?

 

wtf is pinging. And what is the worst that will happen to my motor?

Thanks for the help.

 

^^^pinging = detonation.

The worst is you motor will self destruct into a bunch of irrecoverable metal.

 

Take a look at the pictures in this post. Not exactly detonation but the damage would be similar.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/240-whp-2-0-ls-vtec-done-2581344/

 

Actually, if you are not cc,ing the block and head you will have no idea on your compression. I have yet to see an advertised "compression ratio" be correct.

 

sorry guess im just use to D series guys doing it than, it happens alot on those motors.

 

Do you have e85 available in your area?

 

a megan crank pulley?

the worst that can happen with that compression with the ecu only "chipped" is a blown engine. Doesnt matter if you are only revving to 4000. The easiest way to detonate the engine is at low rpm's and high loads. Keep that up and you will spin a rod bearing and/or crack a ringland.


It can be done, but you will have to pay for the tuning. Everything needs to be tuned to the "T" in order for it to last and be reliable.

 

I say just drive it like you stole it. I mean it will have a lot of positive outcomes. such as excellent life experience for you and the chance to do what you like more than once, also you will help the economy by having to purchase many new parts which helps manufactures, install shops and dealers of said parts.

 

I like it. Keeps me in business.

 

lol again I appreciate the help. And I have a megan and an unorthodox crank pulley but i liked the megan one better.
And I will not be drivingit until I get a full intake exhaust 100 octane and new injectors :D

 

you dont need new injectors and your bottom end wont live long with that crank pulley. OEM is best

 

why wont my bottom end last with that crank pulley?

 

if you notice on the factory crank pulley its 2 pieces bonded by rubber. as insignificant as that rubber may seem to you, the oil pump, crank and bearings absolutely love it. why you ask? because it helps dampen harmonic vibrations. those vibrations may not bother you in the short term, but after they cause the oil pump gear to shatter, then later wipe out the bearings, creating the need to rebuild your engine again, they will.

purchase an OEM type-r pulley or find a used one