I have a set of cheap 15" wheels no name on them. my question is would they be ok for HPDE? they are five spoke, and have an aggresive offset and they look like the brakes would breathe good. but ive seen cheap wheels crack idk?

 

As long as they're not cracked already, go for it. Just inspect them after each session to see if any cracks are developing. Keep in mind that in tracking/racing, with enough repeated fatigue ANY wheel can break, and they are considered "wear" items.

 

My first set of race wheels (Maxxim Oxygene 14x6) only cost $67 a piece. I was worried as well, but they have held up fine over 5+ years of racing. I am still using them as practice wheels and they show no signs of wear.

 

i have expensive wheels and am devistated i just bent one.

 

what do you call expensive?

 

It really depends.... "Cheap wheels" are hit or miss IMO. I've heard people with great experience with certain wheels, but then another person had a totally opposite experience with the exact same model wheels. It just shows that the QC of the no-name companies aren't as good as the big name brands.

Also be very careful with cheap CAST wheels that are direct copies of some FORGED wheels. Some forged wheels have thin spokes because the strength of the material is much stronger; but if a cast wheel copied that style but without the strength to back it up, it would very likely crack.

 

I generally don't like wheels where the spoke makes a sharp right angle bend as it connects to the outer lip of the wheel.

 

Thanks for the comments everybody! I just dont want to be going around a corner and bust my *** because a wheel fails, i got to lookin last night and the wheel says made in china? but it has all the same markings by the valve stem as every other wheel? Im just going to take your guys advice and run them and inspect them regularly, thanks again!

 

I suppose it's hit or miss. Unfortunately I missed once. I run 15x7 Falken Hanabi wheels, $100 a wheel, pretty light. I AutoXed them for about a year and a half and then in the middle of an event when I was checking tire pressures I noticed a nice size crack, probably about 3-4" long running along one of the the wheels close to the rim. Since it's cheap I just bought a new one, all the others have been fine but still a little iffy. Haven't had any issues since then but who knows.

 

I have ran SSR Comps/Type-Cs on the track for the past 4-5 years. I have had two off track incidents that have bent one wheel, and broken another respectively. Granted, SSRs aren't regarded as the strongest wheels... they are light and not particularly cheap. I would much rather be replacing a $150 wheel than a $350 wheel. As such, I am planning on picking up a set of Enkeis or Team Dynamics, etc... something that I won't feel so bad about beating up on the track.

 

Volk ~$400-500 expensive.


Rota Sliptreams are THE light/cheap/strong wheel for the 15x7 category.

They are ~13lbs. $100-$105 (excluding tax) and can take ONE HELL of a beating.

We have been running them since ~2003 and have probably had a combined 50 or so wheels (between 3 of us).

The three reason we have had to trash a wheel, and the only three reasons.

1.) Some one didn't tq the wheels, and or new wheel studs were being used and weren't tq'd down more then once. (this just ruins the seat for the lug nuts, which make the wheels non usable.)

2.) Contact with another car on track. As in the wheel took a direct hit, it has happened quite a few times, never actually had one crack but they do bend or the Lugs of the other wheel do a i nice job "wolverine-ing" the wheel. Along with the wheel bending so does one of the following: spindle/Upper Control Arm/Lower control arm

 

I've run Rota Torque for 4 years now. Only had to replace two. One is for contact with another car, the other was contact with that hump Laguna put in the middle of Apex. That contact was so hard, it bent the upright, and upper control arm and cracked the wheel. I was surprised it still hold air and I was able to finish the session.

 

AMS in IL Has there 1100whp+, 8.5 sec 1/4mile drag car on rota slipstreams :p

http://rides.streetfire.net/rides/20...EV_1024791.htm

 

all wheels break, here's a spoon sw388 that broke from normal street driving



and of course ichishimi had to sign it

 

From what I understand the older 949 wheels were just gravity cast, and you see a lot of people racing on them. Rim width vs price is pretty good. I think they're changing their casting method slightly this year maybe??

Not to push any particular brand, but I like the Kosei K1s that I've been using for autocross and that I also purchased used for road race. From what I understand the K1s are low-pressure cast (sometimes called high pressure) and shot peened to relieve stress.

I don't think I've seen a better deal on wheels than with Kosei's for the price. In terms of the casting method and what you get. I would still call them a low cost wheel. You can by more expensive wheels of the same size that are just gravity cast...

I've seen the 15x7 K1s going for around $115 now.

 

given a wheel with the same dimensions, how much difference in strength would there be for the different types of castings and forgings?

 

i had always heard, never anything substantiated though, that the big advantage is that a forged wheel will bend were a cast wheel will break.

I don't know we have never had a rim actually crack (rota slipstreams- cast wheels)

 

Apple to orange comparison IMHO. There are 3 things to consider:
- Cost
- Weight
- Strength
You can only pick 2 out of the 3. With just the mention of strength alone without considering the other 2 factors, you can't really compare.

If two wheels had exactly the same dimensions, including the thicknesses of all the spokes, hub, rim, etc., the forged wheel would actually be HEAVIER and stronger than the cast wheel. Forging increases the density of the metal, so it gives the benefit of thinner spokes and shells (lighter weight) but yet retains the strength. But the material itself isn't really "lighter".