NEED Help ASAP just Swap in a Ls-v, now wont start up!
I just swapped in an ls vtec into my 92 gsr, cuz i blew the b16a that was in there. Not sure what went wrong, wiring is correct, ecu is correct, FOR SURE i'm getting spark, and fuel, so it cant be main relay. I just did a compression test and came out to be 180 across. Car cranks but does not turn. As for a CEL, i threw a code 20, which is an ELD (Electronic Load detector). I was told to change out main fuse box, and alternater, and i did, but same results. I've been told there might be a short in the wiring, but it doesn't explain why the engine wouldnt start up. Maybe someone on honda-tech has the same experience, and can help me out.
Check all ur fuese and go over all the wiring again. Im sure its somethin simeple if its not cranking. Also check your timing it could also be a timing problem. Just doubble check everything and im sure you will find your problem
Fuses are all good, The engine is cranking, but will double check everything. Wiring was mildy wire tuck by previous owner, maybe that could be the problem, but never had a problem with it till now, and had the car for a year or two with no problems. thanks for input.
If you get "spark,fuel and it crank" your car should supposely start up. If there is something else wrong it will die right after it start. unless you timming is way off.
im not sure, timing is back at tdc. it doesnt even attempt to stay on one bit. but i know it still gets spark, fuel and cranks. anybody else would know? HELP!
long shot but maybe youre not getting any air/getting too much, check your tb and see if its leaking at the manifold and in turn the ecu is flooding/depriving the engine of fuel
E: also check your intake, maybe something is blocking it.
could be vacuum lines too, check and see if any rubber hoses got cut/slashed/crimped during install
E: also check your intake, maybe something is blocking it.
could be vacuum lines too, check and see if any rubber hoses got cut/slashed/crimped during install
Thats one of the thing i did check for, leaks with soap water, but nothing and no air leaks, injectors are fine i think, they arent flooding and seem to be doing what they are suppose to do. Hoses are not pinched or ripped in any way. I double checked wires i soldered all exposed wires and heat shrink them. Im using a chipped p28 if that matters. anything helps thanks for the input.
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was the chipped ECU running another engine before? if it was your B16 ECU before, maybe fuel maps are just WAY off now, or one of the sensors dont work correctly with the ECU.
when you addressed that CEL code, did you use new parts (fuse box, alternator, etc) or used? maybe those are still the culprit (if they were before) check them with a multimeter to be sure
e: also, if this is a newly chipped ECU maybe the shop or whoever did it wrong. those soldered connections are SMALL. a cross circuit could easily be your issue (and most likely the death of your ECU too) try swapping in a factory ECU
when you addressed that CEL code, did you use new parts (fuse box, alternator, etc) or used? maybe those are still the culprit (if they were before) check them with a multimeter to be sure
e: also, if this is a newly chipped ECU maybe the shop or whoever did it wrong. those soldered connections are SMALL. a cross circuit could easily be your issue (and most likely the death of your ECU too) try swapping in a factory ECU
The b16 was using the p30 ecu, i went and got a chipped p28 with the ls/v specs. fuse box and alternator came out from a friends car, which is still running. I tried the p30 ecu on the ls/v but same issue. Can the CEL Code 20 be the problem for not starting up, or is it just the motor itself. I was thinking if this issue doesnt get solved in a couple days, ill just yank out the ls/v , and get another motor that is sure to run for the time being.
if its still pushing the code 20 with both ECUs then something is shorting out/not making a good connection, you said you checked all the wiring, maybe you missed something? a random ground lead maybe?
electronics are a bitch sometimes. maybe get a multimeter and start probing connections, see what turns up, a REAL bitch, but its sounding like an electrical thing.
electronics are a bitch sometimes. maybe get a multimeter and start probing connections, see what turns up, a REAL bitch, but its sounding like an electrical thing.
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