so here goes my attempt at my 1983 Civic 1300FE devac
because of some help and advice from of a few people on here, i decided to attempt my own devac on my 1983 Civic 1300FE. Basically, so far i have removed the three "mystery boxes," the egr valve, not quite sure what the round black thing to the passenger side of the breather and has two heater sized hoses is but i removed that, i removed the vacuum lines that run along the firewall, a valve that appeared to be a pcv valve (all the different systems on this engine are a lil difficult to identify, but it is kinda cool how ahead of it's time the systems are). I now see the hole going into the exhaust manifold for the egr valve... maybe ill try to hook that back up once i get everything else situated, just depends on how well it runs without it. I might end up like everyone else and just seal it off. I imagine i can use a metal plate and some "Hondabond" to seal it.
here are some pictures of my progress so far...
oh yeah, and i do have a question or two along the way if anyone can help...:
there is a little skinny nipple on the driver side of the carb that when i pulled the hose off, it had gas in it. it is probably the skinniest nipple on the carb. any ideas of what it is? btw, it is a Keihn 3 bbl carb if that helps.








here are some pictures of my progress so far...
oh yeah, and i do have a question or two along the way if anyone can help...:
there is a little skinny nipple on the driver side of the carb that when i pulled the hose off, it had gas in it. it is probably the skinniest nipple on the carb. any ideas of what it is? btw, it is a Keihn 3 bbl carb if that helps.








Wow, now that is alot of hoses. I just got done rebuilding my 75 cvcc carb and saw your post.
From the look of it you might want to look into a 75 carb and manifold, or at least the carb.
It only has a few hoses to it and alot less sensors/solenoids. I bet you could pull your jets and swap them right in. Being my 75 is a 1500.
I have to get my pic's off my camera and then I can show you. (Comming soon)
From the look of it you might want to look into a 75 carb and manifold, or at least the carb.
It only has a few hoses to it and alot less sensors/solenoids. I bet you could pull your jets and swap them right in. Being my 75 is a 1500.
I have to get my pic's off my camera and then I can show you. (Comming soon)
does it matter whether i hook up the brake booster to the carb or the manifold? i want to hook it up on the carb just to eliminate the hose going across the manifold for appearance purposes.
I noticed a small nipple on the driver side of the carb that when i pulled the hose off, there was a litte bit of gas in it. I still have the gas lines going in and i believe i still have the return hooked up.
Last question i have right now, Im sure i need to hook up a vacuum to one or more of the nipples on the firewall so the blend door in the heater box still works... do you remember which one? i guess once i get it running, i can just do trial-and-error till i figure it out.
There is no return line on a carb'd car. Are you sure that it was gas and not some condensation?
Yeah you can bolt the EGR valve on for temporary but make sure you dont hook a vacuum up to it. Super easy though to make the plate when you have the time.
It should not matter whether you hook the brake booster to the carb or manifold, the Weber has it connected underneath the carb on the adapter plate so you should be able to attach it anywhere as long as it has a vacuum and its the right size nipple.
I am not sure what you mean by your last question, but I left no vacuum lines on the firewall. The only vacuum lines I had were two sensors or diaphrams and the distributor, basically only two different vacuum lines that were T'd together.
Yeah you can bolt the EGR valve on for temporary but make sure you dont hook a vacuum up to it. Super easy though to make the plate when you have the time.
It should not matter whether you hook the brake booster to the carb or manifold, the Weber has it connected underneath the carb on the adapter plate so you should be able to attach it anywhere as long as it has a vacuum and its the right size nipple.
I am not sure what you mean by your last question, but I left no vacuum lines on the firewall. The only vacuum lines I had were two sensors or diaphrams and the distributor, basically only two different vacuum lines that were T'd together.
There is no return line on a carb'd car. Are you sure that it was gas and not some condensation?
Yeah you can bolt the EGR valve on for temporary but make sure you dont hook a vacuum up to it. Super easy though to make the plate when you have the time.
It should not matter whether you hook the brake booster to the carb or manifold, the Weber has it connected underneath the carb on the adapter plate so you should be able to attach it anywhere as long as it has a vacuum and its the right size nipple.
I am not sure what you mean by your last question, but I left no vacuum lines on the firewall. The only vacuum lines I had were two sensors or diaphrams and the distributor, basically only two different vacuum lines that were T'd together.
Yeah you can bolt the EGR valve on for temporary but make sure you dont hook a vacuum up to it. Super easy though to make the plate when you have the time.
It should not matter whether you hook the brake booster to the carb or manifold, the Weber has it connected underneath the carb on the adapter plate so you should be able to attach it anywhere as long as it has a vacuum and its the right size nipple.
I am not sure what you mean by your last question, but I left no vacuum lines on the firewall. The only vacuum lines I had were two sensors or diaphrams and the distributor, basically only two different vacuum lines that were T'd together.
Yeah, the Weber is the way to go unless you want to go through the carb and rebuild it. Post some pics of your vacuum lines though and Ill see if its how I had mine set up. Also, mine ran like crap and it ended up being a clogged jet in one of the barrels, to test this I capped one of the fuel lines then ran it on one barrel then did the same for the other one and figured out which one wasnt working.
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