need abs removal help ASAP
96 honda accord ex
last night i removed the abs system and installed a 93 accord master cylinder and proportioning valve i picked up from a pull a part. used the 93 accord drivers side brake line and a 51" line from autozone. there is no brake fluid leaking from any of the connections. the problem is there seems to be a vacuum leak somewhere around the master cylinder. with the car turned on you can hear an obvious leaking of some kind of pressure. the brakes also do not want to keep pressure. ive already bled all four wheels about 3 times each.
*note i used my old brake booster(abs version) with the non-abs master cylinder and proportioning valve
*also i havn't bench bled the booster or master. not exactly sure how to do this. would this help?
problems:
-no brake pedal pressure-no brake fluid is leaking at any of the new connections
-some kind of vacuum leak around the master cylinder
i really need to fix this. any suggestions on what my problem is? maybe still some air in the lines?
last night i removed the abs system and installed a 93 accord master cylinder and proportioning valve i picked up from a pull a part. used the 93 accord drivers side brake line and a 51" line from autozone. there is no brake fluid leaking from any of the connections. the problem is there seems to be a vacuum leak somewhere around the master cylinder. with the car turned on you can hear an obvious leaking of some kind of pressure. the brakes also do not want to keep pressure. ive already bled all four wheels about 3 times each.
*note i used my old brake booster(abs version) with the non-abs master cylinder and proportioning valve
*also i havn't bench bled the booster or master. not exactly sure how to do this. would this help?
problems:
-no brake pedal pressure-no brake fluid is leaking at any of the new connections
-some kind of vacuum leak around the master cylinder
i really need to fix this. any suggestions on what my problem is? maybe still some air in the lines?
You'll definitely need to bench bleed it. The short version is that you take the master cylinder and run fluid through it till all the air is gone. You can't bleed the booster, there isn't any fluid in there :-p
Make sure you got rid of the old master cylinder gasket (between the master and booster), it could be causing the leak. Better yet, make sure you still have one.
Not sure why you removed the ABS, you could have just pulled the fuse...
Make sure you got rid of the old master cylinder gasket (between the master and booster), it could be causing the leak. Better yet, make sure you still have one.
Not sure why you removed the ABS, you could have just pulled the fuse...
You'll definitely need to bench bleed it. The short version is that you take the master cylinder and run fluid through it till all the air is gone. You can't bleed the booster, there isn't any fluid in there :-p
Make sure you got rid of the old master cylinder gasket (between the master and booster), it could be causing the leak. Better yet, make sure you still have one.
Not sure why you removed the ABS, you could have just pulled the fuse...
Make sure you got rid of the old master cylinder gasket (between the master and booster), it could be causing the leak. Better yet, make sure you still have one.
Not sure why you removed the ABS, you could have just pulled the fuse...
Edit: when the brakes are pumped with the car on the idle jumps from 1 to 1.5k. like it would if the fitv was being blocked. but the fitv is working proprly because it only does it when the brakes are being pumped
Last edited by bdmlilburn; Jun 2, 2009 at 12:24 PM.
ya ive already had the fuse pulled to see how it runs without the abs. and now my goal is to remove the abs components to clean up the engine bay. ya i removed the old gasket from the abs master cylinder and used the gasket from the non-abs accord. would not performing a bench bleed be causing my problem? if i bench bleed should i do that and then also bleed the calipers from longest to shortest again?
Edit: when the brakes are pumped with the car on the idle jumps from 1 to 1.5k. like it would if the fitv was being blocked. but the fitv is working proprly because it only does it when the brakes are being pumped
Edit: when the brakes are pumped with the car on the idle jumps from 1 to 1.5k. like it would if the fitv was being blocked. but the fitv is working proprly because it only does it when the brakes are being pumped
If there is a ton of air in the master then yes, the pedal would just go to the floor as you compress the air.
when i turn the engine off you can still hear the vacuum leak for about 5 seconds and then it slowly stops
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