trouble measuring v2v "click"
So I am learning to measure my valve to valve "click" on my b16 head, with pro1+ bumpsticks and toda gears. I started with the intake at 0 and running the exhaust from -4 to +4 degrees, and then with the exhaust at 0 and running the intake from -4 to +4 degrees....everything is WELL within specs (around 0.055" at the closest). This didnt seem right, so I tried increasing overlap until something got close, and at -6 intake +6 exhaust they finally got to 0.039". This all seems to be too much, like Im doing something wrong. Is there something Im missing?
BTW I have lash at Skunk2 specs, I dont remember what it is Im at school right now.
Thanks for any help.
-Yes Im using check springs, yes I know how to properly adjust Toda gears, yes I read the "how to v2v" article in the search.
BTW I have lash at Skunk2 specs, I dont remember what it is Im at school right now.
Thanks for any help.
-Yes Im using check springs, yes I know how to properly adjust Toda gears, yes I read the "how to v2v" article in the search.
Lock in vtec. Put a small ball bearing in behind one of the rocker arm locking pins to lock both valves in vtec. If you just switched the big and small pins on the rocker assembly just one valve will be locked in and they will be on opposite sides of the chamber and you won't get good readings. Last time I did pro1's if the exhaust cam gear was set anymore than 2 degrees retarder relative the the intake cam the valves were real close to hitting. Set valve lash to 0 also.
I have vtec locked with a bb - one in the exhaust and one in the intake. I will try setting the valve lash to 0 and post what I get tonight.
I bought the cams from automotive engineering clearwater brand new, and to keep them in time im using an old cam belt wrapped tightly around them and a small needlenose visegrip holding the belt together so theres no slack. they do rotate nicely, and they stay in time well.
I have all the other rockers out except cyl 1, so i wouldnt have to pull 12 springs out unnecessarily, and check springs in all four cyl 1 valves.
I have all the other rockers out except cyl 1, so i wouldnt have to pull 12 springs out unnecessarily, and check springs in all four cyl 1 valves.
To increase overlap you want to advance the intake and/or retard the exhaust, you did the opposite.
Last edited by stumpyf4; Jun 1, 2009 at 05:51 PM. Reason: fix quote
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Good catch Stumpyf4! yes, increase valve overlap/less lobe seperation angle by ADVANCING the intake and RETARDING the exhaust...
Let us know what you get for clearances. Im sure it will help out someone on the boards!
Let us know what you get for clearances. Im sure it will help out someone on the boards!
Sorry my dyslexia got to me- Ill bring it back when i get a chance to go back out to my garage---math homework has gotta come first right now.
and thanks NA thats what I am doing with the cam belt and a set of vicegrips. and claying the motor is next.
What clay should I use? Ive heard of people using tootsie-rolls...
What clay should I use? Ive heard of people using tootsie-rolls...
And if you spray a little silicone or wd-40 on the combustion chambers, itll help the valves keep from sticking to the play-do....
And if your going to reuse the headgasket, only torque the bolts to about half of spec...
Good luck!
And if your going to reuse the headgasket, only torque the bolts to about half of spec...
Good luck!
Update: i had a minute today to get back out there. I decreased lash to 0.000" and my V2V was at 0.050" with intake @ -4 and exhaust @ +4. still seems a bit too high. If this is some small detail that I am overlooking I am going to feel soooo dumb. Ill get back out there before I leave town next week and continue thanks for everyones help so far.
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