The idle speed comes down as the car warms up, so I believe the idle control valve is functioning okay. No vac leaks, no assorted dashpots leaving the throttle plate cracked open, idle stop screw is not holding it open either. My guess is the brass screw that controls the fixed air bleed needs to be adjusted, but I am not sure. I see that the black plug inside that IAC valve is threaded - does that adjust final idle speed after the car is fully warm? My brass screw is stuck, of course. Suggestions Please.. Thanks. Mike

 

yes it will adjust speed of the idle. just tighten it back down all the way. i don't know why they made it adjustable.

 

Nope, the idle air control valve is seated all the way now. That seems to make the high idle less, but it never settles down to 750 when warm. But, I dug deeper, and I find that the idle control solenoid is always energized. If if unplug the electrical at that solenoid, it shuts off and the valve closes and it idles down, so the valve is not stuck. Rather, the solenoid is always getting voltage to turn on. From what I've read in the manual, this solenoid is supposed to compensate for electrical load, etc. But at idle with nothing else on, I would expect it to not be energized. The service manual is not crystal clear on this subject, I don't think. I don't see a clear "go" "no go" criteria. Anyone have any thoughts? Mike

 

could be your electronic load detection circuit is bad. ELD!! !

 

Yep, that would be the logical next step - I read briefly about that. But I guess what I was wondering is if there is anything else that would trigger the PCM into energizing that solenoid, and if there is an amperage threshold for the PCM to decide it is "go time" for that solenoid. Mike