Is anyone here using a koni 3011 shock on the track ? Im trying to put together an endurance worthy suspension setup and i have seen alot of ppl using the koni 3011 . So any advice would be helpful as far as a good shock and spring/spring rate combonation . thanks .

 

I am, i love them.

we ran them in the 25 hours of thunderhill, they rocked.


PM me as i have 2 used and 1 new front 3011, and 1 new rear 3011 that i am looking to sell. You'd just have to purchase one new rear shock and be good to go.

 

I purchased them over the winter from Andrie Hartanto at Prima Racing, I love them, and would highly recommend them to anyone that needs a good suspension for their race car.

 

Interesting...

And what about the 2812 Koni model guys???? Is better than the 30s??? what's the difference?

I'm from europe and not have any information here about these models ... I'm working on a race EG thinking about some like this...

thanks

 

this is right from the koni website on the 2812lb

Description
The 2812 MK II Series is a mono-tube damper specifically designed for competition purposes, featuring externally adjustable compression and rebound. This shock can be rebuilt by the racer. Spring seats are available for 2", 2.25" and 2.5" ID springs.

The 2812 MK II Series spans 35 different stroke/length combinations. In addition, 3 different top mounting eye lengths are available. A steel cap is available for the upper eye so that custom mounts can be fabricated as well.

For a damper to function properly, it must be the correct length and valving. Regardless of the actual mounting configuration, the basic method for selecting a damper is always the same. Please refer tour technical information page for a guide through this process.

 

what spring rates should I be using front and rear ?

 

That's a very personal question - people prefer wildly different setups. In fact, I dont even know what car you drive - makes it pretty tough to make recommendations.

 

3011's rock! I have been running them for 4 seasons including 3 25 hours, no rebuilds, and they are as good as the day they were installed new.

I have experiance with the 2812's from grand am. Not as big of a fan, more finiky adjustments, much more frequest rebuilds. Not worth the extra money for a club car.

 

its a 90 crx

 

with a b16

 

PM'd you back travis, sorry for the delay.

 

The 3011 is a steel body mono-tube that you typically have to remove from the car to change the compression setting. Rebound is at the top of the shock. Damping curve is fairly linear but with a large adjustment range.

The 2812 is an aluminum body mono-tube that has the rebound and compression adjusters at the end of the damper shaft. The damper curve is a little more digressive, but the adjustment range is a little narrower then the 30's.

 

OK solo... thanks for the info men..


I need to compilate all information possible to buy a kit... the problem is here in Spain KONI don't offer this line of struts and don't give any information about that..


To make me an idea about all this...

I thinking to buy one KONI 28 or 30 series kit with some swift or ground control race springs..
In other hand... here I have the KW Variant 3 coilover too... or the Bilstein PSS9

THe car is only for race-track... did you think is better the KONI fixed way... or the adjustable KW / Bils way???

thanks for the attention

 

I could very well be mistaken here, but don't the 28 and 30 series Konis come with a threaded shock body? If so, no need for GC threaded spring perches, just go straight to Eibach for the springs (that's what GC uses).

 

Both sets of 3011's I have had did not.

 

The 3011 is an unthreaded steel body, but the 3012 is a threaded aluminum body. The internals of the 3011 and 3012 are the same with only difference being the bodies. For the 3011, you can use the Koni thread sleeves and perches.


The 2812 is also a threaded aluminum body.

 

If thoes are the ones i have now, they just went in for rebuild. The rears seemed fine but the fronts were starting to be inconsistant. I really like them though

R

 

So what's the difference in price? Having to take the damper off to change one of the settings on the 30 series vs just turning the adjusters on the 28 series for bump and rebound seems like a bonus for the 2812 vs the 3012. And what is the cost to rebuild?

 

3011 are gonna set you back in the neighborhood of $750 per corner for new... 2812's are going to set you back about $1000 per corner... choose your weapons carefully

 

you don't need to remove the 3011 to adjust bump. I did a write up on one of the forums of how to do it with out removing the damper.

also of note the 3011 bump only effects high speed bump. So you really don't change it much.

 

First of all, please stop referring to the 3011/3012 as the "30 series". Those are a line of 4-click adjustable circle track shocks made by Koni.

The 3011/12 require you to extend the shock all the way and turn the shaft to adjust compression. PDQ makes an eyelet that lets you do this adjustment without taking the shock off the car, although somebody from Koni thought it was unsafe.
http://www.truechoicekoniracingservi...RS_Catalog.pdf


Unless you are solo-x and get your shocks rebuilt for free, get ready to pay up:

https://s68715.gridserver.com/inform...php?info_id=15

 

General rule from what i have observed is the following...


2812- needs to be rebuilt about once a year. Recently I have seen some needing rebuilds about 3/4 of the way through a year. (about 5 to 7 races and 3 test days)

3011- From other i had heard once every 2 to 3 years of normal race use. But i have had mine for 3 years and they are still fine (just had them dyno'd). Mike Lock has had his for the same about but has done much more (2 or 3 25 hours races). And his are still good as knew. Renan's were had a ton of time on them two. When my team-mate owned the car he had them on for 2 years with 2 25 hours races, 8 to 10 3 hour enduro's, and 2 full season of sprint racing. Then Andy Hope drove the car for a year, and then Renan bought the car and has ran the crap out of it.

 

where is this write up how to adjust bump without removing

 

Maybe when user " Austin " sees this he will post it up.

I don't remember were it was/is.

And i am far to lazy to write it up again... hahaha

 

I've had my 3011's since I built the car in 2003. I'm also running the OPM top mounts that are used to invert the dampers. Although the dampers seem fine, I'm still going to Eibach in the next week or so to dyno them to see how they are performing after all these years.