I dont think we have one so i decided to do it.

It's a very easy task but if everyone is as **** as i am it has to be perfect. The best way to learn is buy trial and error. I had more error with this than anything else i've done.

First time i put my block together i was good in a cylinders except number 2. i had coolant inside the combustion chamber without even starting the car up...lol

Gap in the oring was slightly to big, start over.

So we will start with what you need,

End cutting tool

mallet with a wooden end

18 gauge copper wire


this is what GE says in their instructions, Here is what i add my personal preference and you will see why

a file


Golden eagle was even impressed with what i did.

first you want to measure out a little more than what you need around the cylinder. i measured out about a 1ft per cylinder just to be safe.

you want to file your end when you make your first cut because it will make it difficult to see if you actually made the connection between the 2 copper o-rings.

not good-you can see the gap.


here's how you do it

lay the o-ring in and gently tap



once you get to the end you should the other end. this is important IMO because you will make the o-ring seal perfect. Once you get to the end file your way into place. dont cut but file it down that way when you are perfect it will slide in place just snug enough but not to tight

here is a good one, but not perfect.


Here is a perfect one with both ends filed tell me where you find the lines. looks like a complete circle with no gaps.


I hope this helps people that run into problems like what i did.I like to do things myself.

 

wow great job.

how did you make the grove in the cylinder?

 

the grove has to be machined down to .030 the 18 gauge wire is .040 thick

 

GE has one on their site
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/includ...INGINSTALL.pdf
both DIY are ****.

 

i know they do but they don't have anything about using a file. and this makes 1 less link that OUR members have to click to.

This is for the OCD at heart, people that want to be perfect because they are worried that they cant see the small gap and didn't do it right.

this makes it pretty much flawless and less of a chance to make a mistake. with filling your way down till it falls smoothly and snugly in the grove the lines o-rings will seal perfectly with no gap at all. non measurable anyway.

i like my filling technique

 

 

what does this do?

 

the o-rings if your asking.

well it will make a better headgasket seal and allow higher boost

 

although i agree with your method and its smart, my rings always look like picture #1 when i go to put my head on and i have never EVER had a temp spike or blown head gasket or anything. The copper just crushes to much for that imperfection to truly matter. everyime i remove my head, there is zero gap from the crush. Nice write up though.

 

yeah i unerstand that and i figured i was good until i found coolant in the cylinder...lol without putting pressure in the system.

so i choose to be as **** as possible

 

looks aight son lol

 

Nice !

 

Good jnfo but a 4 year old thread

 

I tried yesterday on my block



and on these cylinder below I think there is a little gap, do you think I need to remove it?



It is very hard to remove it, how can I do without damage the sleeve please?

 

sharp pick and a light hammer to remove is what i have always used. your rings look fine, especially after they crush.

 

thank you, I'll test with a sharp pick.
Even this one? I don't need to remove it?

 

There should be no gap between ends. When the ring crushes it mushrooms the top and doesn't expand the ring so you'd still have a gap

 

Sorry don t understand, you advise me to remove it and try again with on gap?

 

Yes
Lay the wire in the groove (don't trim it from the spool it's on yet) and once you complete the circle around the groove cut off just a little bit extra and handfile the remainder until it's snug with no gap and no overlap/sharp edges on both cut ends
(I emphasize hand filing here, any electrical tool will remove too much too fast and you'll have to start over)

 

Than you for your advices.
I remove it and did it again.

 

Great thread ahobbs! You're the man!!!!

So are you WantBoost!

 

I saw this come up recently and I guess that's why it's being bumped. It is good info though. OP did a great job from what I can see.

 

lol, old school, well not old school. But nearly 5 years ago lol

 

Looks like you did it perfectly, as I see no gaps or edges. Well done, now just do it three more times lol

HAHA I try, just glad I could point you in the right direction. If you see Steeve_Civic's last post and pic that is what the end result should look like

It's great info and ahobbs is a very knowledgeable member and always more than willing to share his knowledge and experiences for the benefit of others

I still think this needs to be stickied or put in the FAQs at the very least

Well, old school hot rod technology but if it works then hey, that is all that matters lol

Speaking of ahobbs, how's the car? Haven't seen you post up in a bit

 

It works fine on my car. 32PSI of boost for the moment without problem