Long story short I broke my timing belt at 60-65mph and didn't turn off my car right away cause I couldn't figure out what was up. Well I pulled my head and found small marks from the valves on my pistons and my valves aren't closed. I have ever done any head work so I don't know if having space between your valves and head when their supposed to be closed is normal. They all have about the same amount of spacing so either their all messed up or its supposed to be like that. I'd love to hear any input you have. Thanks alot.

 

Congratulations! You have bent valves.

 

Ok, thanks that's what I thought I just thought it was kinda weird that they all got bent. I've only heard of people bending some valves not all of them so I didnt know. Well time for a motor swap. Thanks cbstd

 

wut kind of motor/car. Ur pistons are fine to tell u the truth.

bent same valve on #1 piston twice and car still runs fine.



i'd say replace the valves, get a new timing belt + water pump and keep on keeping on.

 

I got a 1985 Honda Civic with the 1.5L Carb in it. It's only got 98K on it. I thought about just pulling another head from the junk yard, it's 50% off this weekend so it might be worth a shot since I'm kinda strapped for cash at the moment.

 

Might be,but who knows what kind of shape the exhaust valves will be on the used head? Very well might be a better deal though and then you have your original head still to take some time with when money is better. I like the less work and guaranteed results of just rebuilding your head. EIther head you need the same amount of gaskets/seals. The same amount of machine work i.e. clean/surface/ valve job/new stem seals. The only real difference is the cost of the valves.

 

Just pull valves at a jy. Get a socket that fits over the retainers, smack with a hammer and bam! the valves are free to fall into the motor. from there just pull the head and pick the valves.

 

Don't do this unless you like doing the same job twice.

You don't know what kind of damage may have been done to the valve guides and the actual head itself. Not to mention hairline fractures in the piston, rods, crank, cylinder walls. you just never know what actually happened when those valves went crashing into your pistons while it was all spinning at 2000 RPM. Remember, this is aluminum you're dealing with here...

that head is not worth the gas to drive to a machine shop to have it rebuilt.

Just replace the whole motor. It will cost you less in the long run.

 

This is not always true. You never know if a 25 year old motor in a junk yard is any good. You could leave the intake manifold in the car by doing the head only... no vacuum nightmares. Your original head would be to new or better spec, not 25 year old unknowns. However if you can source a "good" motor still leaving the intake in the car changing the entire engine might be a better all the way around alternative.

 

I'm looking for a good motor right now or a swap. I don't think I'm just gonna fix the head or get a junk yard head, by the time I buy everything I'll be a couple hundred into it and who know if the junk yard head will be any good. I was thinking of swapping for the d16a1 for the cost and the simplicity of the swap but a B16 or B18 would be way more fun. As for the vacuum lines for the original engine, I have none I devac'd it like 5 months ago.