need help b20b/ctr crank pulley
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From: Lathrop, Ca, USA
i have b20b with a ys1 gsr trannsmission and im going to get a ctr crank pulley today and was wondering is it safe to put it on my b20b im not running vtec right now by the way but i will put my head on the end of this year i heard rumors that it is not wise to put the ctr crank pully cause it might damage my motor if anyone can help me that would be great o and another thing what alternator belt do i use with the ctr crank pulley
ive been useing a ctr pulley for 2 years now no problems thats a mith. second i took and cut a belt to the right size and brought it to autozone and they matched me a belt
damn thats a nasty crack on that crank. Ive got a similar question.
Im gona be using a light weight flywheel (i think 12 lbs) and im prob gona have the p/s rib on the crank pulley shaved off (for clearance). is this going to screw my crank balance up at all?
Im gona be using a light weight flywheel (i think 12 lbs) and im prob gona have the p/s rib on the crank pulley shaved off (for clearance). is this going to screw my crank balance up at all?
You could use a 12 oz flywheel and it shouldn't effect engine wear, and you should also be able to shave the p/s rib off the crank pulley as well, as the rubber part will still be intact.
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You will be fine. Machining the stock crank pulley is the way to go. The flywheel isn't so much for damping as it is for rotational inertia conservation. Stock crank pulleys have a rubber band in them for damping engine harmonics. Not having it isn't strictly going to cause problems, but it increases the probability that you will have problems with engine harmonics.
I should clarify, MOST stock Honda crank pulleys have the above mentioned rubber band, but not all... I've seen a few D-series crank pulleys that are 100% solid. But, over the years, I've witnessed enough horror stories of people running CTR pulleys and later having main bearing issues, to warrant caution.
You will be fine. Machining the stock crank pulley is the way to go. The flywheel isn't so much for damping as it is for rotational inertia conservation. Stock crank pulleys have a rubber band in them for damping engine harmonics. Not having it isn't strictly going to cause problems, but it increases the probability that you will have problems with engine harmonics.
I should clarify, MOST stock Honda crank pulleys have the above mentioned rubber band, but not all... I've seen a few D-series crank pulleys that are 100% solid. But, over the years, I've witnessed enough horror stories of people running CTR pulleys and later having main bearing issues, to warrant caution.
I think the best route for now is just run the ACT flywheel and keep the pulley unmachined. If i run into clearance issues then ill decide what to do then (not in the mood to screw a brandnew motor up cause of a pulley). Ive had a few tell me theres no clearance issues. Thanks for all the help guys.
Depends on the mount kit you're using, but most of the time the clearance issue is with the alternator pulley, not the crank pulley. I normally would run the shortest belt possible (I think 1 size shorter than stock) and that would eliminate the need to "clearance" the sheet metal with a sledge hammer...
i also have avid mounts, and i'm using a 290K4 belt. i have put over 40,000 miles on my b16 with a ctr pulley...over 3 years and no issues. that said, i'm reinstalling my a/c this summer and going to use an even lighter aluminum pulley that allows a/c
Last edited by zrickety; May 20, 2009 at 05:44 PM.
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