OK so i went to replace the passenger side toe link and the bolt just SPINS!
The nut inside the chasis must be turning also.
I do not want to cut any holes under the car......so i was thinking i could do it inside.
Has anyone cut inside the car before to fix this? I am looking for the right location to cut before i start. Then i can use a sawzal to remove the bolt and free the arm.

How does that nut spin free if its trapped in by a metal square?

 

i was thinking about this when i found out my nut was cross threaded.......grr.

 

btw are you sure the nut is just spinning? at first i thought mine was messed up but it came to be that i wasnt making contact with the nut.

 

Well the original arm is still attached. I went to remove the bolt and i see the other end of the threads just turning so i know that nut must be spinning cause the bolt wont come out. If i hold the bushing sleeve with a vice grip, the bolt just spins so i know the sleeve is not seized on the bolt!
The damm nut somehow turns loose. I had no problem with the other side at all....just when you think all is going smooth.

 

:sad:

 

there was a writeup somewhere on here about fixing this problem and im pretty sure they cut from inside the car ill try to find it.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ht=toe+arm+nut
that might help you some
and this one might help too, although its not going in from inside the car.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/%5Bfaq%5D-disc-swap-problem-nut-stuck-subframe-1619903/
i thihnk theres another writeup where they actually show doing it from inside the car

 

i really wanna see where though the inside you have to cut because i don't want to make alot of holes

 

well if i have time tomorrow or tuesday ill go look at my crx shell and drill some holes to try to find exactly where to cut. it might be raining so no promises. im pretty sure theres a writeup somewhere on it from the inside. i just cant find it.

 

Me either i searched other forums also, My friend just junked a shell. Bad timing!
Thanks, your help is appreciated!

 

cut a [ section with a dremel behind it and peel it back to access behind the nut, you can then get in there with some vise grips. then just bend it back and weld it back up, thats the best way I have seen done. dont forget to anti seize everything when you put it back together.

 

Any one else run into this problem?

 

It happens frequently, I think you are going to have to cut it, its not structural you can weld it back together and undercoat it after and will look the same