need some help first time mpfi swap
i did all my wireing and hooked every thing up but car will not start it turns over fine but the ecu is flashing 10 times what could it be my wireing or some thing ? =(
code 10 is Intake Air Temp sensor - you probably have the wrong connector plugged into it - should be a white 2-wire connector with red with yellow stripe and green with white stripe wires - this won't keep the car from starting - do you have the ground wire coming out of the harness connected to the bolt on the thermostat housing?
So if flashes fast 20 times or like 20 times which could be 15-25 who knows. And also its not a good idea to bump your own post 15 minutes later. Did you check the grounds? Your 10 code is Intake Air Temp sensor. Then it would stop and the next set would be the next code that is going to flash. What did you do when you checked your car just look at it? I'm not trying to be rude but do some searching and wrenching and you will figure it out. Is it getting fuel or spark also?
Sorry about that yea the ground is good I ck all my wiring I just want to know what the flashing is it does it 10 times then stops.then does it 20time slow
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code 20 is electric load detector - usually a problem with the charging system - if your battery is low from trying to start it, that could be causing it to throw the code - did you make sure that it has the right connector plugged into the IAT sensor? - not starting is probably a problem with the distributor wiring or the distributor itself, if your fuel pump is coming on
ok thank for that help i fixed the code 20 but the car still will nt start so i had gone over my wiring and ck my dizzy for spark and it not fireing . So my new ? is if i mixed up the the two white wires will that cause it not to spark ...and yea my fuel pump is comeing on ...thanks
ok forget the last ?i ck all my wiring and the only thing the car will not spark now i know my wireing for my dizzy is right now i ask around and i every one i ask says its my dizzy ...So is there any way i can test my dizzy cause this is my 2 and i dont want tohave to buy one more if this ones not bad ? ...and can some one point out the IAT sensor
ok let see if any one can help lol.... ok i have gone over all my wiring and its all right ck the wires going to my dizzy for power and it has power i ck my coil for resistance and had 0 from terminal a and b so that must mean that the coil is bad ...so my thing is should i be get power from both sides when its hooked up and what other things will casue the car to not get spark i ck all the fuse ......thanks
Code 10 is Intake Air Temperature (TA). There are two identical white plastic 2-wire plugs that you'll have ended up with on that side of the engine. One goes to the IAT. The other one should be ziptied to the firewall as it doesn't do anything. It looks like you hooked up the one that goes to nowhere
You'll get Code 20 (ELD) if you keep cranking and cranking your engine over without any result. Clear the codes by leaving the negative terminal off the battery for a few minutes, swap the IAT wires, and try again.
You'll get Code 20 (ELD) if you keep cranking and cranking your engine over without any result. Clear the codes by leaving the negative terminal off the battery for a few minutes, swap the IAT wires, and try again.
Last edited by kanebmotorsport; May 24, 2009 at 04:27 PM. Reason: wanted to give more information
ok i fixed the codes but the car still will not start replaced the coil but all it dose is my dizzy gets hot and no spark what could be makeing it do that
Did you try checking your ignition module/ignitor ? if you have a haynes manual or something simular it will tell you how to check for voltage and continuity. Also check out your No. 32 50A fuse if this is an 85-91 crx or civic.
its a 89 dx no i need to ck that out does any one know how to ck for voltage and continuity on there ...and where is the # 32 50a fuse at is that under the hood
yeah its under the hood.
ok ill try and explain the ignitor check.
- Turn the ign switch to on, check voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground.. if no voltage check the blk/yel wire and ign switch.
-check for voltage between the wht/blu wire and ground.. if no voltage check the wht/blu wire and coil.
-check continuity between wht wire and body ground
- check for continuity between the blu wire and body ground.
try those steps out
ok ill try and explain the ignitor check.
- Turn the ign switch to on, check voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground.. if no voltage check the blk/yel wire and ign switch.
-check for voltage between the wht/blu wire and ground.. if no voltage check the wht/blu wire and coil.
-check continuity between wht wire and body ground
- check for continuity between the blu wire and body ground.
try those steps out
ok so i check voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground and had 5.7 volts voltage -then i check for voltage between the wht/blu wire and ground and had 5.7 as well voltage check the wht/blu wire and coil and had .1 volts
so are this readings low and why is my ignitor geting hot could that mean its bad
so are this readings low and why is my ignitor geting hot could that mean its bad
oh yea and the ground wire in the dizzy has .3 volts and from what ime told it shound only have more then .03 ? so let me know im thinking of just pick up a new dizzy but i wont to rule eveything out first so if any know why or what other things i should ck thanks



