Wheel stud removal on SI
Has anyone tried to remove the wheel studs? How much did you pay? Did you do it yourself? I attempted to do replace them but they won't clear the inner hub. Do you need to separate the wheel bearing from the axle flange? I am doing this to put on H and R wheel spacers.
I hate midas, minike, monroe! haha. My honda dealer is gay sometimes, They told me they won't modify a car under warranty and I said I have no warranty because I am boosted. I said I don't care about the warranty just charge me for the job I want you to do and they said they wouldn't unless they were broke.
My dealership just has you sign a statement stating that there will be no warranty on any aftermarket part of labor performed on that part....and then they'll do the work.
well u cant use any house tool to pull out a wheel stud. theres a special press i've seen that makes it real simple. just go to midas. stop being scared or whatever. they have waranty on their work so if anything goes wrong, they'll cover it.
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If its anything like the older civics take a hammer and bust it loose then take the hub off (if thats what you call it) and remove stud. Replace and beat it back in.
I had mine replaced with longer studs. They did it the same time they installed my Brembo's. The HFP rims would not clear the Brembo's without a 6mm spacer. With the spacer, the studs were too short. They had to pull the axles and replace the wheel bearings to do it. Cost me about $650.00. Still cheaper than replacing my brand new HFP wheels.
Thanks charged. That's what I didn't want to hear but that's how I thought you would have to do it since the studs won't push past the inner hub. It's ashame the flange it's a little bit bigger but I guess that would change the bolt pattern.
I haven't looked at the 8th gen. But on my integra spindles I ground just enough metal off to push the wheel studs out and get new ones in without having to press out and replace the wheel bearings.
and dont ask me.
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=1534
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=1931
oh and for the record, the skunk2 extended wheel studs have been discontinued.
do u know what a tack/spot weld is?
and dont ask me.
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=1534
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=1931
oh and for the record, the skunk2 extended wheel studs have been discontinued.
and dont ask me.
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=1534
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=1931
oh and for the record, the skunk2 extended wheel studs have been discontinued.
And i-vtec you shouldn't go there. I am actually a welding inspector so I will not ask you. And yes it doesn't seem right. They are not tack welded by honda. And if they were they would even be harder to get off. You would have to to get a little burr grinder or angle grinder to remove the weld or beat the studs even harder to break your little tack weld. The lug nuts pull the stud into the back of the axle flange and are held by the lip on the stud.
I would not reccommend putting the heat produced by your tack/spot weld onto the flange and risk warping it and making your wheels not seat properly on the flange, that may be extreme and may not happen I'm just saying. And the localized heat near the the wheel bearing, cooking the grease may not be good either.
Sounds more like a defective stud possibly. Where did it break at?
Studs, as long as they are high quality should be forged. It is typically not reccommended to weld repair or weld on a forging. If you do weld on a forging what you effectively do is heat treat the material in a non uniform fashion which may actually weaken the material at the transition of where the weld metal meets the base material, possibly causing a fatigue crack.
Pre-heating prior to welding would help but you still have a difference in material with different physical properties which would be a less than ideal situation on parts that are load bearing.
Studs, as long as they are high quality should be forged. It is typically not reccommended to weld repair or weld on a forging. If you do weld on a forging what you effectively do is heat treat the material in a non uniform fashion which may actually weaken the material at the transition of where the weld metal meets the base material, possibly causing a fatigue crack.
Pre-heating prior to welding would help but you still have a difference in material with different physical properties which would be a less than ideal situation on parts that are load bearing.
i noticed one day while looking at the parts catalog for the Si, that honda also offers a longer wheel stud from factory, well as a replacement, not really sure why they did that.
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Iloveyourhonda92
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jun 9, 2010 11:31 PM




