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For installing new wheel studs, I am suppose to remove/replace hub bearing.
However in the diagram below it shows 1 bearing, but 2 part#.... (same price).

?
1) which is the correct honda part #?
2) Besides the aftermarket wheel stud and bearing, is there anything else I need?

 

i think it should be #'s 1, 2 and 26

 

use the latest part number.. you want the 61747 one, not the 61745. Usually what they will do is send you the revised new part anyway, but it never hurts to order it directly.

protip: you may check out your local napa to see what brand of bearing they are selling compared to the OEM brand, because several times now i have found Napa sells the same NSK bearing that Honda does, just at less of a markup. I know it to be true for throwout and pilot bearings, but im not 100% on wheel bearings.

 

it doesnt matter which one you order. theyll only have the latest mfger in stock. theres a different part number for each mfger. plus, the bearing is a new revision, with a new seal on one end. you should make sure you install it in the right direction.

 

When replacing the wheel bearing, do I need a new number 2 as well?



thanks

 

numbers 1 and 2, 1 is the inner dust seal, and 2 is obviously the bearing. Just reuse the snap ring. I would recommend just pulling the knuckle and taking it somewhere to press in and out. Few bucks and a lot less hassles if you dont have a press.

 

if the snap ring is only a couple bucks I would get it. sometimes they are hard to get out and might get mangled, usually rusted in place

 

My plan was just to bring the knuckle, new wheel studs, new bearing and have them install it... Thanks for all the info.

Charlie Moua

 

Depending on longevity I've seen people just press out the hub (it takes the inner/outside race with it), replace the studs, then press the hub back on. However you are exposing the sealed bearing so its not quite as "sealed" as before.

 

so in order to install new wheel studs, you have to do new wheel bearings as well?
and why?

 

you have to at least take the hub off to take the studs out because theres no room behind the stud to push it completely out. you CAN dremel or grind off part of the front knuckle to get some extra clearance to do so. i wouldnt recommend it, but whatever, its doable.

once the hub is off, you dont HAVE to replace the wheel bearing, but its a good idea to since you have the hub off. not mandatory tho.

same with the rear. except the hub IS the bearing in the rear.

 

or just get a whole new complete hub from a .. junk yard. mine was 25 bucks for my ef9

 

ewwww...

 

whaatttt, it was A+ condition

 

so re-using the bearings that are in there ATM would be fine?
i mean mine are good right now and i dont wanna pay $80 if i dont need to.
and grinding it off is half assed and cheap IMO.