everyone starts somewhere and i have my heart set on a f20c for a future miata or s13 swap.

i found a motor and tranny and everything that comes with it C/L and the motor has a knock. 38000 miles. how much you think i should pay for it?

what is a good site/brands/ parts you recomend using for the bottom end job? i think imma replace pistons and everything and bore it out a tad bit.


any input is appreciated.

thanks ahead of time everyone!

 

hell yeah dude you should do all 3 types of forced induction too.

twin charged w/ meth injection and NOS on high compression pistons around 13:1 compression ratio on a stroked/bored motor and have it rev up to 9500.

you should sleeve it (AEBS, Golden Eagle, Benson, Laskey, or InlinePROs)
new pistons (the more triangular they are, the higher the compression)
new rods (the forged suckers that are lighter and stronger)
Kraftwerks HighBoost Supercharger, forcefed by a dual ballbearing GT3076R, through a massive intercooler (get a custom one), to a tial 50mm BOV. O FasHo. ZEX kit w/ any meth kit, running on an aeromotive or dual walbro setup.

wait how much are you spending again?

 

i got my last longblock for 100$ head was still good, block needed honing but crank was still good. seriously though, i wouldn't suggest it if you're new. to "build" a motor with aftermarket (high power) parts will cost thousands of dollars. make sure its what you want before you drop money into it.

 

I would say $3000-$4000 depending on condition. Although you really cant see how it runs, you can check a few things:

If there is oil, the color, and how dirty it is
If there are any missing bolts or loose wires or wires by themselves with E-Tape over them.
If there are any oil leaks around the valve cover
Pull the plugs and see if their fowled

Not a whole lot you can do.......I hope your ready for your car to be down for a LONG time.

 

i will probly put 2000 into it this summer if i get the motor. whatever doesnt get done doesnt get done. no cutting corners with something that revs to 9000 lol

yeah i def see this costing upwards of 6 grand in the end, i know i just want to get started. anyone got suggestions on how much i sould pay fot the longblock i found on Craigslist?? 38000mi and it has a knock. the guy claims it has clean oil..... w/e its still getting torn down so it dont matter. just hopefully the crank will still be useable.

 

and where on earth did you find a longblock for 100 bones??????????

 

jesus, i didnt read this one. ummm im looking to stay all motor. lol. and i dont really have a finite number. I want to get the motor and get as many parts for it this summer. I go back to LSU in the fall. Im gonna do it right the first time. even if i dont finish it untill im out of school.

 

i hope you don't have high hopes for whp, because you'll spend more gong N/A than you would FI and get way less power.

 

DON'T SAY THAT! THE ALL MOTOR GUYS WILL GET ANGRY! They will argue about how smooth power band and crisp throttle response will make up for having 150 less horse.

 

Going to school and building race cars is a hard combo. Unless you are not paying for school until you graduate, then massive student loans are fun.. especially when you cant find a job like me. I'm glad I paid as I went.

 

i think i will be fine staying N/A the extra plumbing and headaches that come with turbos that dont cost more than your car lol.

yeah i hear ya kabaroo, im just going to get a motor completed while in school..... the life spark for a future decepticon lol




but where do you guys go to get parts? thats what i rly want to know

 

forgot:
- lighter curb weight
- engines run cooler
- longevity

but in all seriousness... I raced a built NA motor cause cooling a NA motor (oil and water) was easier than a turbo motor. Run a massive radiator and oil cooler... don't need to worry about space or whether the intercooler is going to block a portion of the radiator.

However, turbos are shitloads more fun and cheaper to get power. Just require more detail to tuning.

 

i live in california, home of the high revving homos. dealer recall blocks get left at the dumpster where a certain worker from that dealer picks them up and sells them to me in decent sized "orders"

 

What about the fact that the rear end off the S2000 weighs more? The turbo puts down enough power to make up for the 70ish pounds. You can also make a nice torque curve with turbo. My engine runs the same temp as stock once its warmed up and takes longer to warm up. V mount? its all about doing the right set up for what you use your car for.

120 extra horse with an extra 70 pounds > 70 less pounds 120 less horse.

 

psh. lucky bastard lol.

 

what about the fact that... i'm not saying turbo/boost is a bad idea?

for track duty, turboed/SCed is running hotter than NA and you have to adjust/plan for it.
for track duty, HP doesn't always make up for weight. Ex. Z06 vs. Exige.
for street duty, boost all the way!
hell... for track duty... boost it. just be aware that you need to compensate for the additional weight and higher water/oil/underhood temps.

 

so if you turbo a n/a motor you'd be golden! hot damn we did it!

no one saw what i did there?

 

what did you do there?

 

Its all about what you use the car for. If i tracked mine I would of focused on other points of the car.